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Somewhat along the same lines as the anti seize question

Started by Ghoste, July 04, 2014, 04:03:27 PM

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Ghoste

But if you were changing a fuel pump pushrod, would you bother with assembly lube? (not in a new build but lets say changing a worn one out for a new one)

tan top

 yep !  I have / would ,
but i'm nuts sometimes doing stuff that there is no need too  :yesnod: :P   smothering  push rod in the in assembly lube , (I always  use the white compcams stuff  for that type of application) ,  then push it in as far as it will go ,  that will hold it in place while you bolt the pump up too  :yesnod:



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Ghoste

Me too and that is what I did, but someone told me I was wasting my time.  I had never really thought about it before but I didn't see what the harm was in doing it.  :shruggy:

b5blue

For that I'd use grease or assembly lube not anti seize, it's a different critter altogether.  :scratchchin: But yea getting that thing to not drop down while installing the pump is a beast! (It helps to rotate the engine so the rod is fully up also.)

A383Wing


Ghoste

No, no, no of course I wasn't inferring to use anti sieze at all, only that it was a similar question in that do you need it (it being assembly lube).

b5blue

Quote from: Ghoste on July 04, 2014, 05:31:27 PM
No, no, no of course I wasn't inferring to use anti sieze at all, only that it was a similar question in that do you need it (it being assembly lube).
I get ya!  :2thumbs: Only reason I brought it up was in the past I'm guilty of doing just that! I got jacked up by my buddy for doing so!  :lol:

ws23rt

I have a hard time coming up with a metal to metal fit that should not be protected with some kind of lube. Aside from tapers.

Even interference fits---one where the bore is smaller than the shaft--need lube so when the time comes to remove it the parts will not be damaged.

For the sake of this conversation I am looking at a torque value chart that is used in the type of work I do.

A 1in dia. high grade (gr8) calls for 896 ft-lbs. dry.  Oiled it calls for 681 ft-lbs. And with anti seize the value is 524 ft-lbs. These are to give approx. 75% of yield.

On my last job I was working with some 5in dia bolts of the same grade and the torque value would work out to something like 13,000 ft lbs (same thread pitch as the one inch bolt).  This is not a practical value to obtain by turning the nut as it would cause a huge side load on the threads that even anti seize could not take. In this case the bolts are heated to expand their length and the nuts turned the proper deg. (depending on their length). The cooled bolt will have the proper stretch. On these bolts anti-seize is vital to protect the threads from heat and corrosion. If one gets stuck it becomes toast.

On our cars their are many places where I would have liked it if the factory had used something. Even if it was zinc plating :shruggy:




b5blue

What the heck do you use a 5" dia. bolt on may I ask?  :o  (Yea I clean/lube everything and keep it coated even later!)

ws23rt

Quote from: b5blue on July 04, 2014, 06:10:15 PM
What the heck do you use a 5" dia. bolt on may I ask?  :o  (Yea I clean/lube everything and keep it coated even later!)

Case bolts for high pressure steam turbines. The case flanges are 12in thick and the bolts surround the case on about 12-15in centers.


Ghoste


A383Wing

I only use enough grease to hold that damn rod up in there to put the pump in....a wheel bearing style grease

green69rt

Quote from: ws23rt on July 04, 2014, 06:23:06 PM
Quote from: b5blue on July 04, 2014, 06:10:15 PM
What the heck do you use a 5" dia. bolt on may I ask?  :o  (Yea I clean/lube everything and keep it coated even later!)

Case bolts for high pressure steam turbines. The case flanges are 12in thick and the bolts surround the case on about 12-15in centers.

Sounds like a similar system we used on reactor vessels...  3" bolts (IIRC) with heating elements embedded in the bolts to expand them, torqued in place then allowed to cool, tremendous torque setting!!!

Cooter

Quote from: Ghoste on July 04, 2014, 04:23:34 PM
Me too and that is what I did, but someone told me I was wasting my time.  I had never really thought about it before but I didn't see what the harm was in doing it.  :shruggy:

Yep, and they are the same putz's that can't figure out why their engine is eating up push rods and knocking either.
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

Ghoste

I likely fall into the putz category myself but it just seemed like if you are sliding new metal in there for the first time, ho is it different from the initial build?  Even if the concensus was that it was wasted effort I would likely still do it just because I'm goofy that way.

ws23rt

Quote from: Ghoste on July 05, 2014, 05:54:08 PM
I likely fall into the putz category myself but it just seemed like if you are sliding new metal in there for the first time, ho is it different from the initial build?  Even if the concensus was that it was wasted effort I would likely still do it just because I'm goofy that way.

I don't see it as goofy at all.  When we are putting things together there are many places where a question may arise. Something as simple as to lube a part or not is not a question I deal with so much as what type of lube is appropriate.

For me moving forward means having answered the question that allowed a move forward.
I hate the bug in my ear that asks the questions after something is well along or finished.