Should Anti-Seize Or Lubricant Be Used On Lug Nuts?

[XS29L]

I've been wrenching for over 35 years and ALWAYS use anti-seize on lug nuts. Being in Vermont with all the salt used on the roads every winter anti-seize on fasteners is a way of life.

[John_Kunkel]

In the links below notice how many times the term "torque values are based on clean dry threads" appears.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/repair/torque-wrench-101-how-to-get-the-right-amount-of-force-2

http://www.aa1car.com/library/torque_wrench.htm

http://www.diyspaceexploration.com/use-torque-wrench/

http://electronicfilters.tpub.com/TM-10-4330-237-13P/css/TM-10-4330-237-13P_105.htm

[MaximRecoil]

In the links below notice how many times the term "torque values are based on clean dry threads" appears.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/repair/torque-wrench-101-how-to-get-the-right-amount-of-force-2

http://www.aa1car.com/library/torque_wrench.htm

http://www.diyspaceexploration.com/use-torque-wrench/

http://electronicfilters.tpub.com/TM-10-4330-237-13P/css/TM-10-4330-237-13P_105.htm

From your first link:

If you're installing a fastener that has a dry torque spec, and the threads and bolt face are oiled, you'll need to reduce the torque by 15 to 25 percent, because the slipperier surfaces will decrease friction. Teflon-bearing lubes or moly-sulfide engine assembly lubes can reduce friction enough to require a 50 percent reduction in tightening torque. Even casually substituting a zinc- or cad-plated bolt or washer for an unplated one calls for, respectively, a 15 or 25 percent reduction in applied torque, because the plating acts as a lubricant.

Which has already been pointed out in this thread.

[six-tee-nine]

I always use some copper grease or anti seize on lug nuts or wheel bolts. Never lost a nut or bolt and next time you take them off they loosen well.
Never tighten with a impact wrench (loosening is ok) you will always overtighten and then the studs break.

I also put a light film on the hub where the rim sits. Ever had a rim rusted or caked to the hub? Not a safe feeling having to whack on the inside of a rim with a slegde hammer to get it of the hub while the car sits on a jack. Not to mention the fact that hammering on a rim is'nt the best thing to do....

[dyslexic teddybear]

I always use some copper grease or anti seize on lug nuts or wheel bolts. Never lost a nut or bolt and next time you take them off they loosen well.
Never tighten with a impact wrench (loosening is ok) you will always overtighten and then the studs break.

I also put a light film on the hub where the rim sits. Ever had a rim rusted or caked to the hub? Not a safe feeling having to whack on the inside of a rim with a slegde hammer to get it of the hub while the car sits on a jack. Not to mention the fact that hammering on a rim is'nt the best thing to do....

Agree, never tighten with an impact.

I do use my air wrench on the lowest setting. Maybe 20lbs torque? Just to spin them on.....if it goes into impact mode, it's a warning to check......something's not right. Use my cordless drill/impact too. Both work well.

Tighten by hand, and pay attention. Better to find anything wrong before you have a flat.

I have Cummins[personal+ 2 work]. I'm not lazy, but 8 and 10 lugs per wheel.....I want power tools.

[John_Kunkel]

Which has already been pointed out in this thread.

Yeah, but how many of the respondents in 3 pages of replies reduce the torque for lube?

[Ghoste]

Not me.

[ws23rt]

I just had another thought about the question---to lube or not to lube lug nuts---

Some FSMs recommend dry threads and my take is it must be for a reason.  I think it's a kind of CYA deal or liability.

Mopar had left hand thread lugs for a while.  Why was that?  To perhaps help keep the nuts from coming off the left side?

They no longer use left hand threads.  Is this because the nuts no longer spin off?

[Ghoste]

And I think that's certainly the point John is making is that the fsm states it for a reason.

[ws23rt]

And I think that's certainly the point John is making is that the fsm states it for a reason.

I agree with John. What the FSM recommends is a good reference. And dry threads do work fine. I would also like to have been at the table where decisions were made. Sometimes practical physics is not enough when all at the table have an input.
When lawyers get a chance to speak they have a power that overrides. Not to mention that engineers once knew nothing and learned by making mistakes and assumptions  like all the rest of us.

[six-tee-nine]

I always use some copper grease or anti seize on lug nuts or wheel bolts. Never lost a nut or bolt and next time you take them off they loosen well.
Never tighten with a impact wrench (loosening is ok) you will always overtighten and then the studs break.

I also put a light film on the hub where the rim sits. Ever had a rim rusted or caked to the hub? Not a safe feeling having to whack on the inside of a rim with a slegde hammer to get it of the hub while the car sits on a jack. Not to mention the fact that hammering on a rim is'nt the best thing to do....

Agree, never tighten with an impact.

I do use my air wrench on the lowest setting. Maybe 20lbs torque? Just to spin them on.....if it goes into impact mode, it's a warning to check......something's not right. Use my cordless drill/impact too. Both work well.

Tighten by hand, and pay attention. Better to find anything wrong before you have a flat.

I have Cummins[personal+ 2 work]. I'm not lazy, but 8 and 10 lugs per wheel.....I want power tools.

I hear ya, I do the same thing.
I put the nuts on by hand because only then you can FEEL if the nut is correct on the thread of the stud. Then I use the wrench on low torque mode, then tighten by hand

[John_Kunkel]

"Feel" can be deceptive, ask my friend who put 1/2"-20 lug nuts on 12MM x 1.25 lug studs and torqued them properly...lost a wheel and totaled the car.