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Spark Plug Removal 1971 Dodge charger 500 383(WTF is this that hard)

Started by herbg123, June 14, 2014, 08:46:47 PM

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herbg123

First i went to advanced auto and asked what socket he gave me 13 16" hexagon.  I tried to go with the ones on the drivers side because it looked easier but its a lot in my way. My hands are not all that big.  1st question do i have the right spark plug remover  size for the engine and the second  is what is the  best way to remove them so i can put some pb blaster to loosen thing up it has not started in more than a decade if u see my older post from a year ago .  Looking at the passenger side it looks like a under car job which is not a problem.  Help Please or a thread would be great also

XH29N0G

I am assuming no headers and stock heads 13/16 is the size.  Before headers, I used a combination of sockets and an old box end wrench (deep offset 12 pt - my dad had one for this purpose).  I also used the standard practice of popping a rubber hose (old fuel hose)  over the end (or even a small diameter tygon tubing that fits over the tip) to remove once loose or to put in plugs.  I may also have had long and shorter sockets and joints so they can bend.    
Who in their right mind would say

"The science should not stand in the way of this."? 

Science is just observation and hypothesis.  Policy stands in the way.........

Or maybe it protects us. 

I suppose it depends on the specific case.....

b5blue

  I use a combination of that socket with a 3/8 drive/a wrench that fits on the end of that socket/a wench that fits the plugs and work from under the car and above the engine as needed. You just have to dive in there and start figuring it out. Some are just a puzzle for loosening and tightening others are just really hard to get the new plug started without dropping and breaking it.
  Start from under the car looking up so you can see clearances.  :2thumbs: 

Bob

On big blocks I find it easier to jack up the front passenger side, place a jack stand under the car, remove the tire/wheel, remove the fender well access cover and use a long extension. The other option is to jack it up, place a jack stand and remove the passenger side from the bottom. The drivers side should be easier and just get from the top.  :Twocents:

Pete in NH

Hi,

On my 71 383 I've always done the job with a 13/16 " deep 12 point socket from underneath. It's not all that hard, just a bit time consuming.

71 SE3834V

Yeah I find underneath the way to go. If you're gonna jack it up might as well slide underneath. Removing a wheel is just more work to me. I've connected a remote start button and done a compression check from underneath.
71 Charger SE 383 4V
72 Galaxie 500 400 2V

ws23rt

This is a reminder of the days when spark plug checking was a routine. These cars are not the worst.

With the hemi that chore went away with the exception of the power brake cars but that was small trouble for one plug.

However I do recall that any work on these cars to keep them on task was fun even the point setting with dual points without the right tools or knowlege. :yesnod:

Cooter

Thing these cars are bad, try putting plugs in s V10 bus/van. Try tuning up an LS engine in a bus/van.

How bout and late model V6 where the upper intake has to come off for the rear three plugs.
I can't tell you how many I've seen with all three rear plugs cross threaded when done at home/on the side.
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"