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power brake booster

Started by hydroforce2, April 30, 2014, 03:03:37 PM

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hydroforce2

is it tough to switch a manual brake booster to a power?
What does it involve to convert over to power brakes?
1968 Dodge Charger - 383 4 speed
1968 Dodge Charger - 383 auto
2004 Dodge Ram 2500 6" lift
2005 Dodge Rumble Bee - #3517 Black 4x4

Hard Charger

there is no booster on manual brakes.  you would need to add one, a vacuum source and possibly new lines to the master cylinder.

if you are going that far the thought of disc brakes comes to mind. just buy a system complete so everything is compatible.

all it takes is money and time to put it in.

hydroforce2

I understand I need to add a booster, that's what I was asking is it difficult to add? I also understand that I will be switching over to disc brakes. I just heard the difficult part of the switch was adding a booster.
1968 Dodge Charger - 383 4 speed
1968 Dodge Charger - 383 auto
2004 Dodge Ram 2500 6" lift
2005 Dodge Rumble Bee - #3517 Black 4x4

Mopar Nut

"Dear God, my prayer for 2024 is a fat bank account and a thin body. Please don't mix these up like you did the last ten years."

Hard Charger

Hydro

just did that very same thing, added power disc brakes. that being said I was in the middle of a full restoration. the car was entirely taken apart. an assembled car has a lot of junk in the way. if you have a nicely painted car then it is going to be twice as difficult. I am going with dot 5 fluid in my brake system just in case I spring a leak, I do not want to FU my new paint. I got lines from 3 sources and they all took some time to massage them in. just because you spend the money do not expect the parts to fall together.


it can be a pain in the ass to take the master cylinder out and back in. not much room under the dash. top left nut is very tough to reach.  going to power discs you will need to change out the MC and add the booster. that means new dist. block and lines at least to the new repositioned MC and could lead to calipers and y block on the axle. when you touch one line usually mess up the ones that they attach too. if undercarriage is nicely painted your going to scratch things up a bit. access will be the rub for you.

its all pretty elementary stuff. the big thing for you if the car is all together, your working around the engine, exhaust, dash etc. there is some tight spots you will be wrestling with. you will need to drop the drivers side front pipe and the starter to access the block to change the MC lines. its very tight in there.

I was all in at about $1600 for the change over.


keith88

Im putting in a new booster and master(disc set up) right now got the booster in for the most part ..and it was a PAIN IN THE ASS lots of cussing and taking breaks to breath the nut top right is real hard to get to if not impossible. The booster fitting also gave me a little trouble as well but not to bad ,I should be doing the master tonight or tomorrow. :brickwall: :flame: :scratchchin:
1969 Charger  Orange /black top  (1989) 360 engine stock with added xtreme comp cam and a 4 bbl  , 904 trans/shift kit , 8-1/4 rear.. with general lee accents.

Mopar Nut

Quote from: keith88 on June 12, 2014, 12:03:37 PM
the nut top right is real hard to get to if not impossible.
Amen to that, how did you eventually tighten the nut?
"Dear God, my prayer for 2024 is a fat bank account and a thin body. Please don't mix these up like you did the last ten years."

keith88

I didnt i was able to get 4 or 5 threads  and that was it, the intent is to buy a wobble socket and see if that works looks like if i pull the instrument panel out i get get to it to ,last resort there. The old one was never tighten either.
1969 Charger  Orange /black top  (1989) 360 engine stock with added xtreme comp cam and a 4 bbl  , 904 trans/shift kit , 8-1/4 rear.. with general lee accents.

Mopar Nut

Same hear and cut the heck out of my hand doing that, my original one was missing altogether.
"Dear God, my prayer for 2024 is a fat bank account and a thin body. Please don't mix these up like you did the last ten years."

Dino

I have my instrument cluster out and that nut is still hard to reach, but it will be a whole lot easier than with the cluster in place.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

MaximRecoil

Removing the instrument cluster isn't that big of a job, and if it makes changing the power booster easier, it would be well worth it. I've had my instrument cluster in and out of my '69 probably half a dozen times now since 2011 when I started working on my car.