Painless 21 Circuit Wiring Harness; Is it worh a shit?

[mopar0166]

AS for an update , since I had the dash out of my car I got the painless install in the dash frame, gauges hooked up, switched hooked up etc.  I sorted through the engine wiring and tail end wiring very easily.   

only notes and keep in mine my car is a 69, their is a few extra wires im not using.  The A/C stuff, they have hard wired leads for side marker light bulbs, and electric choke stuff.   

other then that the colors for the most part match up nicely, and really have had little to no issues yet. 

The only major change to how the painless has set this up is that I use an internally regulated Alternator and I run a full MSD ignition.  It wont be a horrible grind but for people with a more stock application its nice and the colors will match up nicely. 

[UH60L]

Yep, it's getting pretty exciting now.  I'm hoping to drive it next week sometime. 

[UH60L]

I didn't use the a/c wires either, or the accessory wires, or the side marker wires, but I do have an electric choke (Edelbrock 750 performer). I cut and stowed most of the extra wires, but I rolled up the accessory ones and zip tied them in the glove box in case I want to use them later.

I've finished breaking in the cam and for the first time since 2007, I drove the car around the block yesterday.  I couldn't go very fast with no windshield and no hood striker, but the car felt good and ran great, no problems.

Electrically, everything works on my car except the ammeter, which I didn't hook up at this time, and the fuel gauge which we think is because it's not grounded.  The ground clip won't fit because the rubber hose between the fuel line and the tank is too long.  I'll probably just make a ground wire for it.

The only real complaint I have about the painless kit is that there is no fuse list for the fuse block.  Of course mine is the old version, so the newer one comes with a list printed on the back page of the instructions.  I'll have the ask the painless guys if that list is the same for my kit...

[mopar0166]

mines been going well as well, I just rough installed the dash frame last night.  I have the forward wiring done but will do the rear wiring tonight.  no complaint yet, its been a lot easier then it was made out to be on here. 

Good luck

[mopar0166]

one minor negative, the headlight plugs are incorrect for stock application, im going to save the new plugs for when I upgrade the headlights later.  I got enough on my plate right now. 

[jlatessa]

My painless kt came with the fuse box cover imprinted
with the fuse circuits. Yours doesn't have it??

Joe

[mopar0166]

yes and its also on the info pack that you get with it

[mopar0166]

Hooked it up to power and everything worked except directional,

I had to replace the headlight switch as it seemed to stop working and the issue seems to lie in a bad corroded and cracked turn signal switch. 

other then that it has delivered nicely, great product and highly recommend to any not completely stock. I retained the relays for the headlights, added a thermostat relay for my electric fans and my fuel pump is integrated in to the painless system.   

  another step closer to MD show

[UH60L]

I've run into one minor issue with mine.  Now that the engine is broke in, I drove it to the gas station and filled up the tank.  I noticed a slow leak at the sending unit, so I drove the car to a friend's house yesterday and we took out the tank and replaced the sending unit rubber gasket and retaining ring.

The problem I noticed is that the fuel gauge seems to be live all the time even with the key off.  I had noticed a slight parasitic draw at the battery and I'm thinking this is it.

Anyone else run into this, and is there an easy fix?

A guy at work told me it may have something to do with the little DC converter reducer on the back of the instrument panel. 

[Pete in NH]

I've run into one minor issue with mine.  Now that the engine is broke in, I drove it to the gas station and filled up the tank.  I noticed a slow leak at the sending unit, so I drove the car to a friend's house yesterday and we took out the tank and replaced the sending unit rubber gasket and retaining ring.

The problem I noticed is that the fuel gauge seems to be live all the time even with the key off.  I had noticed a slight parasitic draw at the battery and I'm thinking this is it.

Anyone else run into this, and is there an easy fix?

A guy at work told me it may have something to do with the little DC converter reducer on the back of the instrument panel.

Hi,

Your problem has nothing to do with the instrument voltage regulator ( little DC converter reducer)but rather where you are getting your power to it. It should be powered from a source that is only hot when the ignition key is in the run position. It sounds like it is connected directly to a battery source that is powered all the time. 

[mopar0166]

I have a total aftermarket gauge setup , I went for accuracy versus stock look / and having another set of gauges.

I didn't notice if the + feed to fuel gauge gets constant power, ill have to look tonight but I would think its activated on turning the key

[General_01]

Still putting mine in. Been pecking away at it. I am also putting in a 1 wire alternator and an MSD ignition while I am at it. I am not too good with electrical, so I am going kinda slow. I just sent a question to Painless about how to wire the alternator. Should hear back within a day(emailed).

Right now I am trying to figure out why the headlights keep triggering the circuit breaker on the battery charger. They come on and stay on for about 20 seconds then the breaker trips. after about 15 seconds the breaker clicks and they come on again. This keeps repeating but the lights stay on for only about 5 seconds and trips it again. Something is amiss, but not sure what yet. I didn't go all the way to the headlights. I left the harness intact in front of the radiator support and cut the wires just before the battery tray. I put in a six wire connector that will hide under the battery tray. The dome light and the dash lights aren't coming on either. Put a new headlight switch in so I don't think it is that.

[mopar0166]

id think with the MSD And 1 wire alt it would simplify it even more so .

that's the setup I run so if you have questions let me know

[mopar0166]

Still putting mine in. Been pecking away at it. I am also putting in a 1 wire alternator and an MSD ignition while I am at it. I am not too good with electrical, so I am going kinda slow. I just sent a question to Painless about how to wire the alternator. Should hear back within a day(emailed).

Right now I am trying to figure out why the headlights keep triggering the circuit breaker on the battery charger. They come on and stay on for about 20 seconds then the breaker trips. after about 15 seconds the breaker clicks and they come on again. This keeps repeating but the lights stay on for only about 5 seconds and trips it again. Something is amiss, but not sure what yet. I didn't go all the way to the headlights. I left the harness intact in front of the radiator support and cut the wires just before the battery tray. I put in a six wire connector that will hide under the battery tray. The dome light and the dash lights aren't coming on either. Put a new headlight switch in so I don't think it is that.

Make sure the relays for the headlights have a very good ground.  I reused my headlight harness as well but unwrapped in to inspect the wires and re wrapped it.  nothing wrong with that, painless doesn't count on you using the older style of bulb any way.  Also check that the leads are going to the right terminals on the relays, its easy to mix up

the dome light should always have positive juice and the ground gets interrupted with the door switches.  and another piece I reused form the original harness to make life easy.  the dash lights I believe are getting juice from the headlight switch. 

I did have to replace both my headlight switch and turnsignal switch. 

[General_01]

Thanks for the help mopar0166. I went out with a clearer mind today. I double checked the headlight switch and everything seemed good and tried the lights again. Everything works. Not sure if I moved something or if I was just not paying attention yesterday when testing(most likely the problem).  Everything is good now. I put the battery in and everything still works. 

Tomorrow is cleanup and put seats back in car day to get ready to put the Fitech EFI setup in on Friday. 

[TexasStroker]

Thanks for the help mopar0166. I went out with a clearer mind today. I double checked the headlight switch and everything seemed good and tried the lights again. Everything works. Not sure if I moved something or if I was just not paying attention yesterday when testing(most likely the problem).  Everything is good now. I put the battery in and everything still works. 

Tomorrow is cleanup and put seats back in car day to get ready to put the Fitech EFI setup in on Friday. 

Looking forward to see how you like the FiTech.  I had planned to order this week since they were shipping the 6th, but now it has been pushed back another month, lol.  I know several on the board have installed them and are happy, but I'm still looking for long term use and wondering about heat soak.  Hope you get it on and drive the snot out of it, lol.

[myk]

I would think the electric fuel pump would over come any heat soak issues...

[General_01]

When all is said and done, I will post a review. Right now parts are on B/O from Fitech, so I am waiting for the Command Center. In the meantime, my cousin and I are going to do a fix around by making a surge tank an in-line efi pump. That is all the command center is essentially, only they put the pump inside the surge tank.

[General_01]

I would have to say that the Painless kit is not as painful as I thought it might. I am not a fast worker so I took about a week and a half to get it in, but total hours was probably really about 32 hours. I am sure people could do it in less hours than that. It is nice that the harness wires are marked with what they are for and that they use the same colored wires 99.9% of the time. I wish the directions would be a little better, but we have the internet now and that really helps looking up diagrams and finding out how other people hooked up there wires.There are quite a few threads on the web between the Mopar forums about Painless. I also emailed the Tech help once to make sure I was wiring up the one wire alternator correctly. They got back to me the next day.

It's not plug and play, but you don't have to be an expert at wiring cars either to use this kit. I'd use a Painless kit again and I would recommend it anyone.

[UH60L]

I've run into one minor issue with mine.  Now that the engine is broke in, I drove it to the gas station and filled up the tank.  I noticed a slow leak at the sending unit, so I drove the car to a friend's house yesterday and we took out the tank and replaced the sending unit rubber gasket and retaining ring.

The problem I noticed is that the fuel gauge seems to be live all the time even with the key off.  I had noticed a slight parasitic draw at the battery and I'm thinking this is it.

Anyone else run into this, and is there an easy fix?

A guy at work told me it may have something to do with the little DC converter reducer on the back of the instrument panel.

Hi,

Your problem has nothing to do with the instrument voltage regulator ( little DC converter reducer)but rather where you are getting your power to it. It should be powered from a source that is only hot when the ignition key is in the run position. It sounds like it is connected directly to a battery source that is powered all the time. 

I'm still trying to figure it out.  With the car sitting for 5 days it drained the battery enough to not start. 

As to the power supplying the instrument panel and gauges, I connected it according to the diagram, instructions, and markings on the wires in the painless kit.  I have no idea how they wired it from the gauge to the fuse panel to the sending unit.  That all comes pre-wired and I didn't mess with it.

Gonna figure out which fuse controls the gauge so I can pull it when I park the car.  Also gonna e-mail Painless and see what they have to say.

[General_01]

Mine only works while the car is running. I know I had to double check when wiring because when I first looked the wire says Voltmeter and I thought "I have an ammeter??" Then I read it again and said "Oh, Voltmeter and B+ for gauges. That goes to the little thing on the back of the dash."

[mopar0166]

Id say mine is done , minus actually running the car, after waiting for about two weeks to get a new headlight switch and turn signal switch , we are back in business. 

I did upgrade the flashers for my led turn signals but other then that its very straight forward. 

I would definitely us it again.   

with an open mind, knowledge of the original wire scheme and a general ability to wire things, their should be no reason why you can use this with a problem, 

[UH60L]

So, I have been emailing back and forth with the painless tech guy but have not got anywhere yet. 

I tried pulling the gauges fuse and both the radio fuses, no change.

Actually had to be jump started last night when I drove the car to my car club meeting.       

I'm wondering if, since the painless guy had me connect both the hot wire and the ballast resister bypass wire directly to the same wire on the MSD box, if maybe that is what's causing this?...

I'm gonna try disconnecting the alternator wires and see if that changes anything...

I'm just really  on this one...

[UH60L]

Ok, I think I fixed it!  It was my fault.  I had wires # 935 and 955 swapped.  Wire 955 is accessory power and 935 is suppose to go to the 5 wire instrument panel connector.  I had 955 on the panel connector, DOHHHHHHH!!!!!!

I'll drive it and let it sit and see, but I have no more parasitic draw at the battery, so I think I'm good now.

[General_01]

Glad you were able to figure it out. Now you can stop pulling your hair out.