Manual To Auto Swap

[JMF]

Please could someone give me a list of what needs to be changed to go from a 4 speed manual to an auto and the costs involved

Thanks

[don duick]

flexplate and matching bolts, {flywheel bolts are longer} torque converter, transmission, shifter and linkages, kickdown linkages, oil cooler lines and oil cooler.  You could swap your manual setup with cash difference. I am from Australia so I have no idea what you pay in U.S. I swopped from automatic to manual in a 70 charger and the tailshaft was ok. There is a slight difference in the location of the gearbox mount. I was lucky that my crossmember had 2 locations for the mount.

The biggest concern you will have is engine balancing. there is a slight difference between a torque converter from an external balance engine {cast crank} and internal balanced engine {steel crank}. A torque converter from an  external balanced engine has weights welded on one side, where a torque converter from an internal balance engine does not have weights or may have one small weight on the opposite side of the drain plug. Get this wrong and you will have a vibration. If your engine has been rebuilt and balanced then you may have another problem.

[c00nhunterjoe]

Youre going the wrong way! 

[Dino]

My car's on jack stands in SE Michigan, come on over and we'll swap transmissions and all that goes with it!   

[six-tee-nine]

Its easy to go from auto to manual because you buy the 4 speed hump and cut out the floor section in the trans tunnel around the edges.

If you remove your 4 speed hump you will have a large hole in your trans tunnel. So you'll need a new piece of transmission tunnel. I have no idea If you can buy that searate. If not you'll have to buy a one piece floor pan. Or you have to find someone who can provide you a oem piece out of a donor car.
The auto console and shifter bracket is available.

You will need a console anyway, if you have one now, it has a large cutout on the left side and a different carpet piece. Console top plates can be found new or used fairly easy for automatics.

[70 sublime]

Maybe he wants to go column shift and bench seat 

[randy73]

Replace Pedals (unless you plan to switch back), you can get 1/8" thick aluminum to cover hump. Need 727 either SB or BB, torque converter matched to your engine, tranny mount and bracket, tranny lines, kick down linkage shifter linkage (you are going to center console??), automatic console(bottom part is the same for manual's, but upper plate is different), shifter, neutral switch and harness, flywheel and a lift or tall jack stands (at least 30").

Flywheel needs to match the engine, so get one that is specific to your engine year.

I just switched from 3sp auto (727) to 4sp auto (A518), so I can help you out some.

[Troy]

Replace Pedals (unless you plan to switch back), you can get 1/8" thick aluminum to cover hump. Need 727 either SB or BB, torque converter matched to your engine, tranny mount and bracket, tranny lines, kick down linkage shifter linkage (you are going to center console??), automatic console(bottom part is the same for manual's, but upper plate is different), shifter, neutral switch and harness, flywheel and a lift or tall jack stands (at least 30").

Flywheel needs to match the engine, so get one that is specific to your engine year.

I just switched from 3sp auto (727) to 4sp auto (A518), so I can help you out some.

The console bodies *are* different between auto and manual - but it's a lot easier to use a manual console with an automatic.

I am *ASSUMING* you are asking about a 68-70.

The cost to install an automatic is certainly cheaper than the other way around. If you sell off the 4-speed parts you'd likely come out way ahead. Many more people are going the other way and, since Chrysler made a relatively small number of 4-speed cars, parts are relatively scarce.

Since you already have a 4-speed you have a dilemma: automatic console parts are expensive but a column shift means you have to swap out the steering column and track down all the linkage. Probably not terribly difficult as Chrysler made a LOT of column autos and the parts interchange between a wide variety of cars. Since most people prefer the console it's cheap to go the other way.

You didn't mention big block or small block or your intentions for the car. A 318/904 combo can be found practically for free. A 383/727 won't be much more. A small block 727 alone would likely cost more than both - but you don't need it unless you're putting out a decent amount of power (like if you installed a 340 or small block stroker). It is important to note that a 904 is shorter than either a 4-speed or 727 so you'd need a drive shaft. You can use your existing shaft for either of the 727s. You can purchase a rebuilt trans with a good converter from someone like Cope Racing (about $1,000-1,300 I think depending on options). That's easy enough and gets you the big parts. A used big block 727 core is about $100-150. Rebuilding it yourself is probably less then $200 if nothing is broken. Paying a shop (around here) is $500-1,000 depending on how many parts are bad.

If the radiator is original it may not have provisions for the cooling lines. Most after market radiators are "generic" and you just block off the plugs if you don't need them. Check this and you may save some cash. Buy prebent cooling lines from someone like Fine Lines (probably about $100).

Big block kick down linkage may run you $100 or more. They are different between years so it depends on how "correct" you want to be.

Console shifter linkage is likely around the same price.

The cross member is real easy to find. Probably $20? Buy a new mount.

That, I think, will get you something that works. If you currently have a console the main top plate is different (but easy to find because, again, they made a lot of them). The mounts for the console are slightly different - mainly because of the "hump" on the 4-speed. If you don't have a console then it's easier and cheaper to find a complete automatic style (no floor shifted autos without a console). Depending on how nice you want it you're looking at $200-2,000 (used vs reproduction). You'll also need the mounting brackets.

Your speedometer cable will be the same but the reverse wiring harness may be different. You're reverse light under the dash is no longer needed.

Troy