News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Harness voltage drop test????

Started by 69wannabe, June 08, 2014, 08:36:25 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

69wannabe

My buddy has a 69 charger 440/727. A very nice and good old car. Like all of us he has had some voltage issues and regulator problems etc... I cured alot of voltage issues on my charger by going to a powermaster one wire dodge alternator and I am planning on doing the voltmeter conversion soon to maybe eliminate any more voltage issues even tho it's been working great for the past year now. On to the topic at hand, He found a test on a dodge website that states this simple test. Take a volt meter and put one lead on the positive battery post and take the other lead and put it on the blue wire feeding voltage to your ballast resistor and the reading with the ignition switch on should be less than .2 volts. It also says if the voltage is .3 volts start looking for wiring issues and if it is .5 volts or more to GET SERIOUS!!!!! So my buddy checks his car and it has 3.98 volts!!! Wow, that's a long way from .2 volts so he is freaking out with this reading so I told him to bring it by and we will see what we can see. It wouldn't have been so bad but when we did the test on my charger it read .1. I done the test on his with my volt meter and it was in the high 3's. Checking voltage at the bulk head gave me 12.6 volts where the fuse link goes into the bulk head. Pulled the ignition switch and only had 9 volts at the big red wire at the ignition switch. Pulled the cluster and found some repaired wiring to the alternator gauge that needed repaired again. Just to rule out any gauge issues I put them wires temporarily together and then had 11.90 volts at the switch. Much better but even bypassing the alternator gauge we still had a reading of 1.2 volts from the original test. Cleaned and hooked the alternator gauge back up and snugged the nuts up good on back of the gauge and we had an improvement from when I removed the cluster. We got alot better voltage throughout the system now and high 11's at the ignition switch and I got the test voltage down to 1.2 volts but I still got some more digging to do to get it down to the less than .2 volts that is recommended for this test. Has anybody else ever heard of this test??? Just wondering if I am fighting a loosing battle or am I missing something somewhere... I got a few more things I want to check but it was getting dark so we buttoned it up to try again later. Seem's like a weird test but I guess it is pretty accurate.