'68 Charger Manual or Power Windows? Vote!

[challenger70]

So my '68 had '69 doors so I bought a mint pair of '68 doors with power windows, motors for rear windows, extra motors, and all the wiring, switches, etc...  basically everything I need to add power windows.  The question is would you use the shells and put the manual window hardware back in, which I am leaning toward (see below), or add PW to the car.  

My questions and concerns:
1) extra stuff to break (are the factory setups somewhat reliable? Can the motors and switches be rebuilt?)
2) Extra weight
3) Do I need to drill a hole in the door jam for the wiiring?  
4) Can't roll windows down when battery is disconected and I store my classics with the battery disconnected.
5) extra weight (not a huge concern, but less weight is always better)
6) any other issues I missed or didn't think about?
7) If they break on a trip I can't put my windows up or down.
8 How common are PW on a '68?
9) Do I need different rear interior panels for the switches instead of cranks? (Panels will be restored anyway)
10) Can I even just swap manual for power hardware?

Pro's
1) easy to roll all windows down without leaning over car.
2) adding a cool option to car.
3) I have all the parts to do it (I think).

Car will be setup for somewhat serious pro-touring.  Big Block, 4 or five speed(Passon 855), XV level 1 suspension, subframes, torque boxes, inner fender braces, boxed lower control arms, tubular upper control arms, welded and reinforced k-member, 13 inch viper brakes, ect...  But I am leaning toward adding a console, so the PW would be another "luxury" item.  Car will have power steering and manual brakes.  What would you do?!  

[Baldwinvette77]

Generally speaking power windows are always less reliable that manual, however its WAY more common on late model cars that are cable operated, How are the 68 systems operated, usually the motors last a long time, they seize because of rust, or atleast thats how it is on vintage corvettes with power windows 

[Ghoste]

Tough question.  I'm like you, I kind of prefer the manual cranks but if I were in your position I think I would go with the power setup.

[myk]

I vote for power windows.  If you're going to modify your car into a "pro-touring" car then originallity or reliability is not something that you should be too concerned with; you're going for technical/functional/style points, not OEM simplicity and reliability.  With that being said, if the OEM stuff seems untrustworthy to you there are aftermarket alternatives that are available; I don't see the point of using factory pieces when the rest of the car will be mostly 'modded anyway.  Cranking down windows?  Ain't nobody got time for that...

[challenger70]

I vote for power windows.  If you're going to modify your car into a "pro-touring" car then originallity or reliability is not something that you should be too concerned with; you're going for technical/functional/style points, not OEM simplicity and reliability.  With that being said, if the OEM stuff seems untrustworthy to you there are aftermarket alternatives that are available; I don't see the point of using factory pieces when the rest of the car will be mostly 'modded anyway.  Cranking down windows?  Ain't nobody got time for that...

To clarify, body/interior will be mostly restored to stock with refurbished factory parts, except for the front seats (probably use recarros or something with side support).  So other than wheels/brakes and front seats car will look "stock".

[tan top]

nice having power windows !!   if it were mine !  would  leave it  manual crank set up        less stuff to go wrong   

[69 OUR/TEA]

My R/T SE  (disassembled right now),has power windows among many factory options,they worked great,very nice feature getting to roll all down from one spot !!!!!Love the way the switches look to !!!
The option I don't care for is the A/C,more crap to restore,and clutters up the eng bay !!!

[garner7555]

I vote lexan screwed to the door.   Ha ha. Just kidding. I vote power, always nice to be able to roll windows up/down while driving. 

[UFO]

Did you get the rear window regulators ?

[Dino]

Do you intend to drive the car much?  I for one get tired of pulling over to roll the windows up and down so I bought a complete power window setup.  I have not installed it and it won't be fun to do so I'm sure but I drive my car a lot.  Weight matters little, the motors are not all that heavy and the car is not going to feel the difference.  Just keep less crap in the console.   

The switches are super simple and can be rebuilt easily, same with the motors although you could buy aftermarket motors.  I restored mine in an afternoon and they work great.

Yes you do have to drill holes in the door jambs and A pillars but there are dimples there to guide you. 

Make the decision based on that and the fact that you need to cut larger holes in all 4 interior panels, something you cannot undo.

Sure this stuff can break but what's the worst that can happen?  The window is stuck until you remove a panel.  I say there's much more chance of the electrical system going up in smoke because of a loose bulkhead connector than the motors jamming.  Make sure all works and is greased before install, stick a few relays in the wiring to keep the load out of the switches and this stuff will outlast the rest of the car.

If it's a Sunday cruiser and being able to roll up a window with the battery disconnected is important then keep it manual.

[challenger70]

Did you get the rear window regulators ?

Is there a difference between power and manual window regulators?

[Dino]

Did you get the rear window regulators ?

Is there a difference between power and manual window regulators?

Yes.  Where the manual regs have the crank mechanism, the power regs have a bracket to bolt the motor to.  You will need to find power regs which are pretty costly.

[VegasCharger]

I voted Power Windows 

Some advice:
I am at the stage of restoring all four lower door panels. My originals were trashed. My Charger is 68 which came factory optioned power windows. I found used replacement door panels but not all from the same bunch. So a set of rear 69 panels and a set of front 68 panels. Why is this irrelevant? I find out the hard way. 68 & 69 Charger lower door panels are the same right? Well if you have manual windows you may have never known that there is a difference. My point is that there are perforations cutouts on the back of the door panels around the round hole where the window crank gear pops thru. This is a guide for one to use to cut out a square/rectangle hole for the PW switches to fit thru. As you know in 69 they changed the style of PW switches. But what I didn't know is that the 69 cutouts had a larger sized perimeter. And so not aware of this when I was doing my first of two rear panels to restore (again from a 69) I cut out the factory perforation only to find out that the cutout area was too big  So I had to do some mods to make it correct and was fortune enough to catch this before cutting out the other rear door panel's PW switch hole. Lesson learned.

So if your set-up is 68 (or 69) keep in mind of what model year your lower door panels originated from. If you have a 68 setup but have 69 panels  (or vise-versa) you'll have to make adjustments to your cutouts. Such as another 68 door panel as a template (this is what I did for the other rear panel) or ask someone (me included) for some measurements.  Keep in mind that you have to match model year switches to model year door panels.

Many of you members may already know this, but I haven't seen this topic posted in here so I thought I would share. 

Some pics to help better to explain

[TPR]

I've got power windows which were retro fitted by a previous owner, and I really wish they hadn't.
The fronts work most of the time but require a helping hand. The rear left needs help going up and the rear right doesn't go anywhere.
A manual crank would have been a lot easier.

On saying this, when I have the time and money to overhaul the lot, I'm sure I will appreciate the powered setup.
As others have said, a restomod/pro touring build would suit a powered setup if done properly.
Good Luck.
TPR

[Tilar]

Power for me. I bought a complete setup off of ebay with all 4 window motors and regulators with a couple extra motors. Not sure if any of it works but the guy said it did.

[challenger70]

Thanks for your input everyone, my brain is saying go manual, but my heart says it would be pretty cool to have power windows.

[Ghoste]

The vote is nearly 50/50 too. 

[Aero426]

Crank em up and down.   

[jfreakofkorn]

i would go manual ... but that is me

[challenger70]

I voted Power Windows 

Some advice:
I am at the stage of restoring all four lower door panels. My originals were trashed. My Charger is 68 which came factory optioned power windows. I found used replacement door panels but not all from the same bunch. So a set of rear 69 panels and a set of front 68 panels. Why is this irrelevant? I find out the hard way. 68 & 69 Charger lower door panels are the same right? Well if you have manual windows you may have never known that there is a difference. My point is that there are perforations cutouts on the back of the door panels around the round hole where the window crank gear pops thru. This is a guide for one to use to cut out a square/rectangle hole for the PW switches to fit thru. As you know in 69 they changed the style of PW switches. But what I didn't know is that the 69 cutouts had a larger sized perimeter. And so not aware of this when I was doing my first of two rear panels to restore (again from a 69) I cut out the factory perforation only to find out that the cutout area was too big  So I had to do some mods to make it correct and was fortune enough to catch this before cutting out the other rear door panel's PW switch hole. Lesson learned.

So if your set-up is 68 (or 69) keep in mind of what model year your lower door panels originated from. If you have a 68 setup but have 69 panels  (or vise-versa) you'll have to make adjustments to your cutouts. Such as another 68 door panel as a template (this is what I did for the other rear panel) or ask someone (me included) for some measurements.  Keep in mind that you have to match model year switches to model year door panels.

Many of you members may already know this, but I haven't seen this topic posted in here so I thought I would share. 

Some pics to help better to explain

Thanks for the tip, I'll try to keep it in mind if I go with the power window setup.  I wouldn't be surprised if it had the wrong year door panels, I am trying to right all the wrongs this poor car has seen throughout the years.   

[bill440rt]

I'm 50/50 as well. 
I wouldn't mind adding an aftermarket P/W kit to my '69, though. Maybe someday...
https://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=CR45-K