1972 Charger Engine Swap 400 to 440-6pac

[Jvz]

Hi, new to this forum and have some questions about swapping out my original 400 motor with a 1968 440-6 pac that I bought from PAW (when they were still in business) in my 1972 Charger.

I am currently assembling the motor here are the specs: .030 over, steel crank, Speed Pro Hypereutectic Pistons, Edelbrock aluminum performer rpm heads, Hughes roller rocker arms, Mopar hydraulic lifters. As for the cam, I cannot remember the exact specs, when I ordered the motor I asked for a cam that would allow it to be a performance street vehicle, around 500+ HP. The intake will be an Edelbrock aluminum manifold with 3 Holley 2-Barrel carburetors. 

Some of my concerns are as follows:
1. How easily will this new motor bolt into the existing frame?
2. Will the headers on the 400 work with the 440.
3. Will I be able to use the external parts, such as: flywheel, starter,
    distributor, water pump housing, pulleys, brackets etc.
4. When dropping the engine in can I hook onto the aluminum heads to lift
    the motor, or is there another connection point.
5. What torque converter would be optimal for my application, I have a 727
    torqueflite transmission, 8 3/4" rear end (429 case with 3.91 gears).
6. What speed will I be able to go with this current set up.
7. I am wondering what rpm this motor will be able to handle
8. Should I think about changing the rear end gear ratio and/or putting in a
    Gear Vendor overdrive unit. I want to be able to drive on the freeway at a
    reasonable rpm and still have off the line performance.
    https://www.gearvendors.com
9. Are stabilizer bars already on this set up, or am I going to need to add
    them.

Any help will be greatly appreciated, thanks.

John

[RallyeMike]

I'll take a shot at this:

1. How easily will this new motor bolt into the existing frame? - Same motor and trans mounts and all. Bolts right in.
2. Will the headers on the 400 work with the 440. - Depends on your brand and pipes. Some manf have different part numbers and some make header that fit both. Also, if your exhaust pipes are H-d or X-d together, you will have to widen them to fit the wider 440.
3. Will I be able to use the external parts, such as: flywheel, - Flexplate or flywheel? 400 is cast crank external balanced and 1968 440 is internal balanced crank. The engine to transmission components including the torque converter need to matched to the type of crank. This is critically important. starter - yes,
   distributor - no, need the long shaft 440 distributor, water pump housing - probably, check inlet and outlet and if same sides then yes. pulleys - likely yes, brackets etc. - most will work.
4. When dropping the engine in can I hook onto the aluminum heads to lift
   the motor, or is there another connection point. - They should be fine as long as you install the bolt deep with lots of thread engagement. Don't lift with less than 4 bolts.
5. What torque converter would be optimal for my application, I have a 727
   torqueflite transmission, 8 3/4" rear end (429 case with 3.91 gears). Cam specs are important to know for this.
6. What speed will I be able to go with this current set up. How many rpm's do you want to turn max? What is your rear tire diameter? There are speed conversion programs to input this into. Try an internet search for an rpm/speed calculator. Good stuff out there.
7. I am wondering what rpm this motor will be able to handle. Depends on your cam spec and valve train somewhat, but keep it under 6k would be safe. Maybe a foray to 6500 every once in awhile.
8. Should I think about changing the rear end gear ratio and/or putting in a
   Gear Vendor overdrive unit. I want to be able to drive on the freeway at a
   reasonable rpm and still have off the line performance.
   https://www.gearvendors.com If you are not racing, a 3.55 or 3.23 gear might be more well rounded for you.
9. Are stabilizer bars already on this set up, or am I going to need to add
   them. Look under the car. You likely have a front bar but no back bar unless it is a Rallye - then a rear bar may be present. A front sway bar is essential to decent handling. A larger than stock one is a major improvement. A rear bar also helps, but put the upgraded front bar on first to see if that satisfies you.

Good luck! .... and Welcome.

[Jvz]

Thanks for the great info, I will look into these matters.
John

[Nacho-RT74]

if water pump housing is a problem, take your existant 400 water pump housing and bolt in to the fresh 440+6. The water pump housing is matching your actual radiator outlet setup.

same about pulleys setup

Change on these items began on 73s where 440+6 were not anymore available anyway