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Question on a distributor I have

Started by troy.70R/T, May 19, 2014, 06:06:29 PM

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troy.70R/T

I have an electronic Distributor that I was going to put into my 383. I don't know where it came from but there is a tag on it that says 3690432   I was also wondering if there is anyway to test it to see if it is good. Also I have a point dist with a good cap and rotor Can I use the points cap and rotor on the electronic dist?  :shruggy:

troy.70R/T

here is a pic of the tag.

John_Kunkel


P3690432 is a Mopar Performance part. Caps and rotors will work on points or electronic.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

troy.70R/T

Thanks John. This is the first thing that has worked in my favor on the 68 project. maybe my luck is changing.  :2thumbs:

cudaken

Quote from: troy.70R/T on May 20, 2014, 03:34:52 PM
Thanks John. This is the first thing that has worked in my favor on the 68 project. maybe my luck is changing.  :2thumbs:

But does your Charger have the electronic module? There is some rewiring that goes with the so called upgrade. I have all so never heard anything real good about them!   

Cuda Ken
I am back

troy.70R/T

yes I know I have some wiring to do. you are talking about the module right?  this is not a resto I am going all after market.

A383Wing

module, ballast......and then convert to dual field alternator to protect the ECU

troy.70R/T

I was wondering about using a one wire alternator. Any thoughts?

justcruisin

It does simplify things but I really can't see the point in changing an alternator just for the benefit of doing away with your external reg. If you are not concerned with originality I would look more at an alternator that was capable of putting out a good charge at idle to compensate for electric fans etc. Maybe the one wire alternator will do that. :shruggy:

A383Wing

most any stock alternator is capable of putting out the desired charge to battery...but it's the electronic regulator that is required to keep ECU from burning up

one wire alternators have had issues from what I have heard

troy.70R/T

I might just use a regular alt because they are cheaper. I have done the conversion on my 70 but its been awhile.

John_Kunkel

Quote from: A383Wing on May 20, 2014, 10:25:05 PM
but it's the electronic regulator that is required to keep ECU from burning up

A mechanical regulator isn't going to "burn up" the ECU, the electrical noise created by the points in a mechanical regulator might cause a problem. Most replacement regulators have electronic guts.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.