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starter just clicks

Started by 69dodge383, May 19, 2014, 04:48:04 PM

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cudaken

 While I more inclined to think it is the starter short story.

Guess it was 15 years ago and i had not started the 68 Road Runner for around a year. Buddy was over so we decided to start her up. Turn the key, click was all I got. Headlights where bright so I started hitting the starter with a hammer, click again. Cleaned everything I could and still just got the click!  :brickwall: At this point I was swearing like a sailor and was sure I needed a starter!  :brickwall:

Dave suggested I hook up my battery charger it has a 60 amp start setting. (I was sure he was wrong!) And I be dammed she fired right up on the first crank!  :2thumbs: Funny thing, that pissed off Dave, his 68 Charger cranks and cranks before it fires even when driven daily, much less sitting for a year!  :smilielol:

With you having TTI headers, I would go to a stock sizes starter my self. I do not trust the minis my self.

Cuda Ken
I am back

A383Wing

it can't be the starter...it was new last fall.....   :popcrn:

69dodge383

Quote from: MSRacing89 on May 20, 2014, 05:22:10 PM
You have got a bad starter my friend.  If you can't jump it with a screwdriver at the relay.......then there is only one more connection downstream.  Sucks, but its got to come apart.

Sure is shaping up that way...will get it done quick, I want this car back on the street

Doug
The way I bought it
1969 Dodge Charger SE
383 Magnum
727
3.23 open 8 3/4 - 489
PS/MB

The way it is
1969 Dodge Charger "The Duke"
440HP '72
10.5:1 Mopar Pistons @.030 (446 c.i.)
Edelbrock Performer Heads
Hughes Solid Lifter Cam 278/283 245/250 .597. 613 108
7Qt Oil Pan
Victor Intake
Demon 850 Carb
TTI Headers 2" Primaries
727 Manual Valve Body
9" Dynamic Converter
4.10 Sure Grip 8 3/4 - 489
3" Dual Super 44
Coys 18x9 20x10.5  Cragar 15x8 15x10

firefighter3931

Check the voltage at the starter while jumping the starter relay....that will tell you if it's a starter problem or a wiring/battery problem.  :yesnod:

Use a screwdriver to jump the relay. Earlier you posted that a wire was used to jump it....too much resistance to get an accurate jump unless you were using a 2G wire.

Let us know what you find.


Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

six-tee-nine

What I said and what Ron says...

No voltage drop means batt ok. Now measure again on the starter so you can rule out every connection between the batt and the starter.
If you still have 12.6 at the starter motor then its not a bad + connection between batt and starter If you are sure you have good ground (engine to firewall and also batt to body) then I say starter went to another world.

Greetings from Belgium, the beer country

NOS is nice, turbo's are neat, but when it comes to Mopars, there's no need to cheat...


69dodge383

I went back out to the car this morning. I took a screwdriver and jumped the starter relay. Starter flipped motor over with ease. Plenty of power to start the car. Like it should be. The other day after I had last posted I tried to start the car and just heard a click noise from inside the car...single click when i turn the key This is a new starter relay from NAPA know how. I would hear a single click when I would try to start car, Then try to start it again, nothing. Then try again and the starter would click three times or so trying to engage then gives up. If i try to start it again it would either click or nothing. And then I go out today take a screw driver and jump the relay it goes. I did notice a blue spark the first time i did it, it started engine normal and then i tried it again and it just sparked orange and started turning motor over like normal like if i clicked in fuel msd and pumped carb twice car would start like normal. grounds are good starter spins this 440 over like its nothing.

This to me is not a starter issue.....

Doug
The way I bought it
1969 Dodge Charger SE
383 Magnum
727
3.23 open 8 3/4 - 489
PS/MB

The way it is
1969 Dodge Charger "The Duke"
440HP '72
10.5:1 Mopar Pistons @.030 (446 c.i.)
Edelbrock Performer Heads
Hughes Solid Lifter Cam 278/283 245/250 .597. 613 108
7Qt Oil Pan
Victor Intake
Demon 850 Carb
TTI Headers 2" Primaries
727 Manual Valve Body
9" Dynamic Converter
4.10 Sure Grip 8 3/4 - 489
3" Dual Super 44
Coys 18x9 20x10.5  Cragar 15x8 15x10

firefighter3931

Quote from: 69dodge383 on May 22, 2014, 09:48:59 AM
This to me is not a starter issue.....

Doug

I have to agree Doug  :yesnod: If it just clicks with the key but turns over fast while bumping the relay i would suspect the relay is the issue. I would try another relay first.  :yesnod:


Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

69dodge383

One other thing i did notice the other day was that when I would test the engine for ground by putting my negative side of my tester to the cyl head and the red to the +post and it would read 12.6+ if i remove the negative battery cable from the battery and do the same test with my tester it reads zero volts like the engine isnt grounded any more, hook negative cable to battery again and it shows power again like the first test....dont know if that matters just figured i would add it
The way I bought it
1969 Dodge Charger SE
383 Magnum
727
3.23 open 8 3/4 - 489
PS/MB

The way it is
1969 Dodge Charger "The Duke"
440HP '72
10.5:1 Mopar Pistons @.030 (446 c.i.)
Edelbrock Performer Heads
Hughes Solid Lifter Cam 278/283 245/250 .597. 613 108
7Qt Oil Pan
Victor Intake
Demon 850 Carb
TTI Headers 2" Primaries
727 Manual Valve Body
9" Dynamic Converter
4.10 Sure Grip 8 3/4 - 489
3" Dual Super 44
Coys 18x9 20x10.5  Cragar 15x8 15x10

firefighter3931

Quote from: 69dodge383 on May 22, 2014, 10:22:06 AM
One other thing i did notice the other day was that when I would test the engine for ground by putting my negative side of my tester to the cyl head and the red to the +post and it would read 12.6+ if i remove the negative battery cable from the battery and do the same test with my tester it reads zero volts like the engine isnt grounded any more, hook negative cable to battery again and it shows power again like the first test....dont know if that matters just figured i would add it



That's perfectly normal....no problems there.  :yesnod:


Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

Back N Black

Here is a quick check for grounding issues.

Start the engine, turn on the headlights.

Set digital volt meter to 20 volt DC scale.

1.  Test between the positive and negative battery post, 14.1 to 14.8 volts is expected.

2.  Test between the negative battery post and the engine block,   0.04 volts is expected.

3.  Test between the negative battery post and the body, 0.02 volts is expected.

4.  Test between the engine block and the body, 0.02 volts is expected.

If you get 0.00 volts on tests 2, 3 and 4. Reset meter to 2 volt DC and retest. On test one you should get 14.1 volts if not something is wrong.
On tests 2, 3, 4. If you get more than 0.04 or 0.02 volts you have a grounding problem between those parts.

It's a good idea to run a ground wire to the ignition module base in order to shorten the path of electrons.  The spark goes from the coil to the coil wire across the rotor, jumps the gap to the cap terminals, down the wire and jumps the gap at the spark plug then through the head to the block and up the ground wire to the battery. Then through the small wire to the body, across several weld seams to the module base to complete the circuit. That's 20KV worth of electron movement.

Road Dog

Neutral Safety Switch or connection to it?
If your wheels ain't spinn'n you ain't got no traction.

A383Wing

Quote from: Back N Black on May 22, 2014, 12:49:11 PM
Here is a quick check for grounding issues.

Start the engine,................


that's why this thread is here...it won't start....he needs a starter...we have been saying this all along....it's a cheapo Nippo starter...contact points always go bad

ottawamerc

Ok I've been following this for a bit and after all that has been said and done I would place bets that there is a poor connection in your bulk head electrical connector :yesnod: I had a friends do the same thing at a car show and thats what we found. Every thing else sounds  fine.

Scott :cheers:
This hobby is more than just our cars, it's the people you get to meet along the way!!!

Back N Black

Quote from: A383Wing on May 22, 2014, 02:49:51 PM
Quote from: Back N Black on May 22, 2014, 12:49:11 PM
Here is a quick check for grounding issues.

Start the engine,................


that's why this thread is here...it won't start....he needs a starter...we have been saying this all along....it's a cheapo Nippo starter...contact points always go bad

If you read a couple post up the page, the car started by jumping the relay.  :2thumbs:

69dodge383

Thanks for everyones input on this- :2thumbs:

The car does turn over like it is supposed to. Screwdriver on the starter relay does the trick.  :yesnod: This is a new starter relay and may be the culprit  :flame:...there may be a breakdown in the bulkhead  :brickwall: or somewhere along the line to the key switch itself :shruggy:. I will sort it out.  :coolgleamA:

What I am going to do in the mean time so I dont have to start my car with a screwdriver is get a push button switch and wire that in to the solenoid wire on the starter relay. Using 12 gauge . I know that will work in the meantime and it will run fine until I sort this out.

I want to drive this car, I can deal with the mystery when there is 2 feet of snow on the ground.

Doug

The way I bought it
1969 Dodge Charger SE
383 Magnum
727
3.23 open 8 3/4 - 489
PS/MB

The way it is
1969 Dodge Charger "The Duke"
440HP '72
10.5:1 Mopar Pistons @.030 (446 c.i.)
Edelbrock Performer Heads
Hughes Solid Lifter Cam 278/283 245/250 .597. 613 108
7Qt Oil Pan
Victor Intake
Demon 850 Carb
TTI Headers 2" Primaries
727 Manual Valve Body
9" Dynamic Converter
4.10 Sure Grip 8 3/4 - 489
3" Dual Super 44
Coys 18x9 20x10.5  Cragar 15x8 15x10

69dodge383

Went to auto store and got push button start switch. Wired push button to starter...and it starts car. Real good...like it should. Like starting a race car now. I will still need my key in the car for the stock electric items and whatever.

Doug
The way I bought it
1969 Dodge Charger SE
383 Magnum
727
3.23 open 8 3/4 - 489
PS/MB

The way it is
1969 Dodge Charger "The Duke"
440HP '72
10.5:1 Mopar Pistons @.030 (446 c.i.)
Edelbrock Performer Heads
Hughes Solid Lifter Cam 278/283 245/250 .597. 613 108
7Qt Oil Pan
Victor Intake
Demon 850 Carb
TTI Headers 2" Primaries
727 Manual Valve Body
9" Dynamic Converter
4.10 Sure Grip 8 3/4 - 489
3" Dual Super 44
Coys 18x9 20x10.5  Cragar 15x8 15x10

Lunger

 yep same happened to mine its in the key switch or someplace alone that line. I never traced it down, still have the pushbutton bypass. The key has to be in the on position for it to start.
BULL OF THE WOODS

cudaken

Quote from: 69dodge383 on May 23, 2014, 11:57:14 AM
Went to auto store and got push button start switch. Wired push button to starter...and it starts car. Real good...like it should. Like starting a race car now. I will still need my key in the car for the stock electric items and whatever.

Doug

My 68 Road Runner is all so wired like that. I like that way, sort of a half ass anti theft devices. I hide mine under the carpet. Just push on the small lump and she fires right up. Been that way for 30 years now.

Cuda Ken

 
I am back

fy469rtse

Now I know how to start it Ken , I'll be over tonight to take her for a spin lol :smilielol:,
Problem is in the bulk head, and ignition switch