Pinging at higher rpms

[PackingSix]

That sounds like severe pinging

So the first video the timing was 38* BTDC, and the second we dropped it to 34*BTDC. I wouldn't think that it should be pinging with that timing  . Just out of curiosity what was was the usual timing on a  stock 440? 

[c00nhunterjoe]

I am half deaf (really) Sounds good to me.

From 3 to 7 seconds in the 1st video, so bad it sounds like marbles.

[c00nhunterjoe]

That sounds like severe pinging

So the first video the timing was 38* BTDC, and the second we dropped it to 34*BTDC. I wouldn't think that it should be pinging with that timing  . Just out of curiosity what was was the usual timing on a  stock 440? 

What rpm does the pinging start vs go away, or does it never stop pinging under load. If that is a legitimate 34 degrees and pinging that bad, you need to check compression numbers to see if it is too high for pump gas. Im assuming you are runnign 93 in it?

[XH29N0G]

I would follow what c00nhunter suggests. 

Mine is somewhere around 10.1 and aluminum heads, but with a different cam.  This means you cannot use my experience directly, but for what its worth, I need to run it at 32 to 34 to avoid hearing clatter on pump fuel. The clatter is much less pronounced than yours and not as high pitched as your ping, but it is there.  Yours sounds like the old pinto my parents had in the 1970's. 

For what its worth, my compression tests came out a little more than 220.  I have not checked with a second tester to verify, but the same tester gave 140 on the engine before it was rebuilt.

[PackingSix]

What rpm does the pinging start vs go away, or does it never stop pinging under load. If that is a legitimate 34 degrees and pinging that bad, you need to check compression numbers to see if it is too high for pump gas. I'm assuming you are running 93 in it?
[/quote]

It starts some where between 2,500, and 3,00, and the highest I can get near me is 91. I've never pushed through it, just because if it is pinging, I don't want it doing damage. Here is another thing that I'm finding puzzling. The first video was on the highway in drive, in third gear doing 100 KPH. The rattle didn't start until I accelerated to pass.

The second video I started at approximately 5 KPH, and used the slap stick to shift through the gears. In first, and second I was past 3,000 RPM, and it wasn't until in third that the pinging started, and let's just say I was doing a little more then 100 KPH when the pinging started. Why wouldn't the pinging have been there in 1st, and 2nd gear? Especially 1st because the load would have been more because there was less momentum prior to acceleration.

I would like to thanks to everyone for the help, it is really appreciated.   

[XH29N0G]

I'll leave the main issue to c00nhunter and others, but have an idea about the 1st, 2nd, 3rd question. 

I believe you have the load on the engine backwards.  In 1st, the gearing reduces the load on the engine - like on a 10 speed bike in a low gear for climbing.   In 3rd, the gearing is set up to give the highest speed, but this transmits more load to the engine - like in a high gear in a bike. 

This is why the RPM climb fast in first and slow in 3rd. 

So the fact that you don't create pinging in 1st or 2nd but see it in 3rd is normal. 

When I have been in cars with pinging, I have also seen it work this way.

[b5blue]

Try finding a hill or overpass and at various speeds punch it going up hill. By increasing the load you can test for ping.  This testing confirmed I needed to swap to aluminum heads despite best tuning. I had to limit throttle to 3/4 mostly till the swap.

[c00nhunterjoe]

Need to start at bare bones basics and verify timing. Then if it starts in 3rd after a 2 gear pull, verify sufficient fuel pressure under load. Have you done a compression test to see what its blowing?

[PackingSix]

Need to start at bare bones basics and verify timing. Then if it starts in 3rd after a 2 gear pull, verify sufficient fuel pressure under load. Have you done a compression test to see what its blowing?

I haven't done a compression test yet. I just happened to find the previous owners questions, and posts on this forum when I was searching for solutions to the things I was questioning after I bought it. I will agree though with the previous owner not being impressed with the engine builder. Basically I have taken the info from the posts here to confirm what I am finding now going through the engine bit by bit one thing at a time, so I don't miss, or skip something. So basically I'm setting up my plan of attack for the Spring when I bring here out of storage.

I'm going to put the adjustable rocker arms on in the Spring to get rid of the lash. At that time I can reconfirm TDC to verify the timing, and do a compression test to see if she is still at the 175 psi I think the previous owner said his results were. As for the fuel pressure, the previous owner installed a electric fuel pump to assist with fuel pressure consistency, and initial start priming. 

Thanks again for the help, and I hope you can bare with me until I can get you that info. Good Old Canadian Winter! 

[c00nhunterjoe]

It has an electric and mechanical pump? If so, i personally hate that setup. Either way, verify the pressure under load, not just at idle. 175 psi should have no problem on pump gas with aluminum heads.

[PackingSix]

It has an electric and mechanical pump? If so, i personally hate that setup. Either way, verify the pressure under load, not just at idle. 175 psi should have no problem on pump gas with aluminum heads.

It's an electric pump at the tank. What is the downfall of that type of setup c00nhunterjoe? Is there a better option?

[WMopar71]

Hmmm, it's not convenient to source 93 octane fuel. I must ask others to determine what might be to cause of my problem.