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Proper Procedures ??

Started by 72Charger72, May 05, 2014, 11:48:46 AM

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72Charger72

New to doing body work and I will you tube some things but I decided to replace the floorpans on the 72 I am working working...this knocks out alot of work and rust..
I think I am going to clean up the frame with 3M™ SandBlaster™ Clean-N-Strip Discs 9681, 4.5 inch, Medium grit, 54767
What are the proper procedures for the underside and engine compartment. to clean then seal and paint?
Obviously sand off the rust but then what? I am thinking of using the raptor products for the undercoating? Do you just sandand cleanup and then immediately
undercoat before more rust starts up? I saw some products listed for stopping rust like in the inside frame areas and such from Eastwood?
Thanks for any help!



DREDILSKI

DRE - 73' Charger 360 SE


Dreamcar

I'll be starting the underside of my car soon. Mine needs some new floor sections too, but the rails are good with just some light surface rust. Here's what I plan on doing.

I've spend hours researching different paint-over-rust type materials to save myself from blasting the underside. Basically, my research has led me to get some "Chassis Saver" from Magnet paints. Apparently, this stuff works best over some light rust because it uses the rust as a bonding agent. Some degreasing and a pass with wire brush to remove any loose rust is basically all the prep necessary (read the instructions though). Rust free sanded bare metal can be coated too. 

What has sold me on this product is that I contacted the company for some info and I told them that I want to be able to topcoat the surface with a rubberized undercoating for a "textured" look. They said that if I use their shiny/glossy version of Chassis Saver, then give it a good scuff, the undercoating should stick with no issues. This is a plus for me because I want to seal the bottom with Chassis Saver, then have the car painted, then go back and add the undercoating that will also hide any overspray from the paint job. The topcoating of other paint-over-rust products seemed questionable based on the product data that I could get, unlike the Chassis Saver.

When I have the floor pans rememoved, I'll coat the inside of the rails with more CS, and use some Eastwood internal frame coating for any areas I can reach with the CS.

just my  :Twocents:...I hope my plan goes well.
"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)

ottawamerc

Hey Dreamcar. FYI I also was sold on the Chassis saver and sprayed $$$$ of dollars of the stuff into my car while it was apart and this year when I pulled the carpet guess what I found?????? Yeppers RUST! :brickwall: May not be "as" good as advertised.

Scott :cheers:
This hobby is more than just our cars, it's the people you get to meet along the way!!!

Dreamcar

Ooh.....good to know. Any suggestions?
"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)

six-tee-nine

rust and bubbles under the old paint = sand blast
clean old paint = coarse sand paper or wire wheel cleaning

Then epoxy primer asap

I always want to put epoxy primer the same day / evening over spots I sand blast.

buy a hand held sand blaster and a paint gun for primer. The best investment you'll do for bodywork.
Greetings from Belgium, the beer country

NOS is nice, turbo's are neat, but when it comes to Mopars, there's no need to cheat...


Patronus

Sometimes spraying a product like that isn't the best application. I would recommend brushing it into the part(s)
'73 Cuda 340 5spd RMS
'69 Charger 383 "Luci"
'08 CRF 450r
'12.5 450SX FE

Dreamcar

Im also considering the rust bullet undercarriage kit. Either way, im brushing.
"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)

Patronus

A foam brush works good if your anti brush strokes. I usually brush it on and then back roll with a small throw-away roller from HDepot. Best $1.97 you can spend.
'73 Cuda 340 5spd RMS
'69 Charger 383 "Luci"
'08 CRF 450r
'12.5 450SX FE

Dreamcar

Thanks for the advice. I'm not too worried about brush strokes because after the car gets painted, i'm scuffing the underside and spraing rubberized undercoat.
"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)

72Charger72

So Ive decided on the Eastwood products...but Im sanding with the 3M wheels first....then using Eastwood rust encapsulator then using Raptor tintable for the under
side and trunk etc...also using Eastwood Frame Sealer for the inside....BUT I also bought a small soda gun for hitting the tough stuff with...
I am thinking if theres rust I want it gone as much as possible

72Charger72

as I am new and reading and learning... trying to figure out which way is best....
I am looking at replacing my inner fenders walls....then sanding the whole engine compartment,rails  and firewall...this will be a slow resto as I dont get much time...
after sanding an area to metal should I protect it with epoxy primer? It will be quite awhile before I get to the painting stages and I just want to protect the
rust removal work as I go?

Dreamcar

Quote from: 7#1ChargerRT# on July 31, 2014, 01:42:49 PM
as I am new and reading and learning... trying to figure out which way is best....
I am looking at replacing my inner fenders walls....then sanding the whole engine compartment,rails  and firewall...this will be a slow resto as I dont get much time...
after sanding an area to metal should I protect it with epoxy primer? It will be quite awhile before I get to the painting stages and I just want to protect the
rust removal work as I go?


Absolutely...the sooner you protect bare metal with epoxy the better.
"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)

six-tee-nine

Yes you should asap.

Depends on the climate. but in winter time I can get surface rust on bare metal over night.

I always put epoxy primer on every bare metal part that is cleaned withing 24 hrs. I then let it sit overnight before putting a coat of high build primer on it.
I do that so I dont have to scuff the epoxy wich you need to do If you wait till the epoxy hardens out complete
Greetings from Belgium, the beer country

NOS is nice, turbo's are neat, but when it comes to Mopars, there's no need to cheat...


72Charger72

Thanks guys thats what I wondering because Im reading everywhere the base is most important part and I want to make sure
I get that right and dont waste time re-doing a bunch of work because I have to move slow on this...
So sand/grind remove rust...then epoxy primer asap then base primer the next day?

Dreamcar

Yes, that seems correct to me. Follow the tech sheets. Your epoxy will have a window for topcoating without having to scuff. The SPI i'm using is 7 days, but i would never go that long without scuffing or reapplying to reactivate the window.
"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)

72Charger72

on the sanding grinding rust removal I was also going to use Eastwood rust converter primer stuff for micro rust I cant remove...
do you think that is ok to go under the epoxy primer?

Dreamcar

Quote from: 72Charger72 on August 01, 2014, 08:24:16 AM
on the sanding grinding rust removal I was also going to use Eastwood rust converter primer stuff for micro rust I cant remove...
do you think that is ok to go under the epoxy primer?


Be very carefull with that stuff....some epoxy can, some not. SPI allows for the use of OSPHO but with a strict procedure. Contact Eastwood before doing anything.
"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)

72Charger72

Eastwood says you can use their Epoxy primer over the Rust Converter....good to know their products are compatible haha

72Charger72

What kind of primer should you use over the epoxy primer? A self Etching primer? still learning 101 stuff I guess....but there seems to be so many ways and
techniques for doing it?

Dreamcar

If eastwood says its fine, at least you know.

You want to use their high build primer after the epoxy. Self etch is old school and used instead of epoxy. Epoxy is better for slow restorations. Get a high build that is a different color than the epoxy and use guidecoat before sanding.
"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)

Dreamcar

High build = primer surfacer
"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)

72Charger72

Thanks Dreamcar! I think have a procedure to follow .....now for some forward progress!

Dreamcar

No problem. Keep us posted. Are you doing filler work too? Ask Eastwood if their rust converter will hurt filler.
"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)

72Charger72

As I move from the engine compartment to the body I will have a small area that needs filler but there is no rust in that area....
I will post some photos as I go...I have a build post under
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109796.msg1352790.html#msg1352790

Dreamcar

"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)

72Charger72

Eastwood says no issues with body filler over rust converter...
Rust converter will adhere to the metal and body filler will adhere to the rust converter...