Brass or aluminum or whatever...

[myk]

As I try to figure out my recent driveability problem: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,110256.msg1353293.html#new

I'm looking at the ignition system as well.  I'm not quite sure if my cap and rotor need replacing, but just in case I do, does it matter if the contacts are brass or aluminum?  I've tried to research the subject but there seems to be as much debate on brass versus aluminum ignition terminals as there are on what type of oils and filters to use.  Also, that blue/green residue inside some of my spark plug wire boots and their matching terminals in the distributor cap are just a result of normal wear, correct?  In any case, what brand of caps and rotors are you guys using? 

[ottawamerc]

<------ MSD  the green stuff is just corrosion, Aluminum apperantly is the best conductor but not resilient.

Scott

[myk]

<------ MSD  the green stuff is just corrosion, Aluminum apperantly is the best conductor but not resilient.

Scott

Corrosion, I see.  Strange thing is that some terminals on the cap don't seem to have any while a couple of them, mainly the ones with loose plug wires on the cap, have quite a bit of the residue on/in them.  How do I know if my cap and rotor are worn and need replacing?  I couldn't find anything like a 'spec on rotor tip or cap terminal height or anything.  I cleaned off the heavy carbon deposits with sandpaper in the meantime.  BTW are you refering to an MSD cap and rotor?

[b5blue]

Brass and vented!

[ottawamerc]

Ya a MSD rtr  I think the heavier corrosion is from the ozone created by the larger spark gaps created by poor connections etc. All the high tension connections should be tight and secure, might be time for new wires?

Scott

[myk]

The wires have less than a thousand miles on them, if that means anything.  They are 8mm Taylor Spiro-pro wires.  I used to run MSD's 8.5mm wires but didn't like how they fit...

[b5blue]

Firecore wires and RTR Dizzy for mine. Check the dizzy shaft for any side to side play that would indicate a worn shaft bushing. (Many don't put a few drops of oil on the fuzzy under the rotor to keep things lubed.)

[myk]

Firecore wires and RTR Dizzy for mine. Check the dizzy shaft for any side to side play that would indicate a worn shaft bushing. (Many don't put a few drops of oil on the fuzzy under the rotor to keep things lubed.)

Ouch!  I know I haven't done that in the 20 years I've owned the car...

[Chargerguy74]

<------ MSD  the green stuff is just corrosion, Aluminum apperantly is the best conductor but not resilient.

Scott

Between the two, yeah.  But, silver is the most thermally and electrically conductive metal.

[ottawamerc]

Firecore wires and RTR Dizzy for mine. Check the dizzy shaft for any side to side play that would indicate a worn shaft bushing. (Many don't put a few drops of oil on the fuzzy under the rotor to keep things lubed.)

Oh yeah good one b5blue I forgot about the worn bushing thing!

Scott

[myk]

Well, I've concluded that my MP distributor is "out of phase," which would explain the terminals inside of the cap having the spark impact on the side of the terminal as opposed to the center of it, so I'm probably going to look into Ron's Firecore units.  I hate the idea of "throwing parts" at the car but I have a good feeling about these Firecore products...

[b5blue]

My RTR is sweet!  Talk to Ron! 

[myk]

My RTR is sweet!  Talk to Ron! 

I will; I'm just sort of confused as to which model to buy.  There's a plug and play and the RTR; research will commence...

[Cooter]

Corrosion causes a bad connection. Therefore,  causes the coil to work harder to fire.
basically, only time I replace a cap is when another problem like yours shows up. While your at it kinda thing. Might as well.

I'm surprized your car is running as good as it is finding out all the burned/corroded  plug wires...
you really need to lube under the rotor button to keep the weights moving freely Myk.

[firefighter3931]

My RTR is sweet!  Talk to Ron! 

I will; I'm just sort of confused as to which model to buy.  There's a plug and play and the RTR; research will commence...

Myk,

The plug and play is designed for use with an external box (MP orange/chrome, MSD, Mallory etc...)

The RTR has a built-in ECU so if you want to eliminate an external box and the associated wiring this is the way to go.

Brass is much better than aluminum....i've found the aluminum terminals corrode very quickly. Venting the cap will help because gases inside the cap that cannot escape will cause corrosion. With regards to corrosion on the plug wires ; poor fitting terminals with loose connections are the problem. I allways recommend adding a little di-electric grease on all terminals to protect against moisture/corrosion.


Ron