Modern Bullitt build

[keepat]

I had a few people ask how I measure and bend the stainless steel tubing, so I thought I would post a little more details on the radiator overflow line. I have bent thousands of feet of S/S tubing over the years. Every 55 Fleming yacht commissioned on the east coast I have bent about 80 foot of ½" and ¼" tubing, all by measurements and drawings. I sure there are many different ways to bend S/S tubing but what I have found that works best for me is outside to outside tubing measurements. This is easy when working with 90 degree bends. In the pictures below you'll see marks on the tubing. One is an parallel  orientation line, then a line designating the outside of the tubing after the bend, and the last mark is a U or C (depending on how you look at it) this designate the direction the bend should go.










By using a 45 degree fitting in the neck of the radiator I was able to bend the tubing about 45 degree to start the line. With the first bend close to the flair its best to flare the line 1st as some flaring tools need more room then the bend will leave. You can see two marks in the 3rd picture, 1 marking the where the outside of the tubing will be and the other marking the direction of the bend.








Here I'm using a scrap piece of tubing to mark where I will make the bend, I also measure for the next bend and mark the orientation for this change indirection.









































Here are the tools I used to bend and flare the S/S tubing
Thanks
Pat

[Dino]

That short tutorial was worth more to me than half the shows on Velocity combined.  Beautiful work.   

[XH29N0G]

I like the use of the vice.  We bend tubing for building scientific instruments, but have not used a vice in that way. 

[Patronus]

That short tutorial was worth more to me than half the shows on Velocity combined.  Beautiful work.   

I agree. I think a show dedicated to technique rather than drama would do well. Some Eastwood videos for example.

[RamZCharger]

As always great information Pat, cheers.

[keepat]

Thank you gentleman!
Pat

[keepat]

There are 2 small computers that I needed to mount under the dash. One controls the EFI that I mounted on Vintage Air mount so that the troubleshooting light is just viewable under the dash (sorry no pictures) The 2nd controls the ignition and I mounted it to a plate that covers the unused right side cowl vent.
Thanks
Pat

[tan top]

clever !!  awesome stuff 

[MxRacer855]

Unbelievable Pat.
Incredible work!

[JB400]

 Hope you have a Happy Birthday today   

[keepat]

Hope you have a Happy Birthday today   

Thank you!!
Pat

[VegasCharger]

Well SH#T if it was your BD yesterday then Happy Belated Birthday Pat

[redmist]

What Hydroboost unit and plate did you use??? I am going to do Hydroboost on my car this winter, and would just rather buy the parts as apposed to purchasing a kit.

[keepat]

Well SH#T if it was your BD yesterday then Happy Belated Birthday Pat

Thank You!
Pat

[keepat]

What Hydroboost unit and plate did you use??? I am going to do Hydroboost on my car this winter, and would just rather buy the parts as apposed to purchasing a kit.

I think Hydratech makes 2 different firewall adapter plates for the B body, 1 for a manual brake car and 1 for a power brake car. I ordered the complete system but I'm sure they sell just the firewall plates.
Thank you!
Pat   

http://www.hydratechbraking.com/Mopar_B_Body.html

[keepat]

Pulled the motor back out so I could modify the inner fender to make room for one of the brake lines off the master cylinder.
Thanks
Pat




















   


     

[MxRacer855]

 

[GT]

That looks great Pat!   What are your plans for the shock tower hole?

And thanks for the tutorial on the tubing - i just bent my first set of A/C lines and your demo made it extremely easy 

[keepat]

That looks great Pat!   What are your plans for the shock tower hole?

And thanks for the tutorial on the tubing - i just bent my first set of A/C lines and your demo made it extremely easy 

I haven't decided what I'm doing with the old shock tower hole, I may add a support to the top of the RMS coil spring mount for additional strength??
Thanks
Pat

[keepat]

Welded the seams on the inner fender covers, coated them with bed liner and installed a rubber gasket I got from McMaster Carr. Now they should keep most of the water and dirt out.
Thanks
Pat

[keepat]

I bent the right front brake line to run along the seam between the firewall and floor. This is much cleaner than the original run in the middle of the firewall.
Thanks
Pat 


       

[VegasCharger]

I bent the right front brake line to run along the seam between the firewall and floor. This is much cleaner than the original run in the middle of the firewall.
Thanks
Pat 

Holy Crap that's a great ideal

Who would've thunk it?

I guess you did

[XH29N0G]

I know you have been thanked for posting this, but just want to thank you again.  I am going to pass along a few of your pictures to someone in my lab who is designing and assembling a gas transfer manifold for a mass spectrometer.   I have a question out of curiosity.  Can you describe how you bent the large arc?  Did you bend it around a form and then bend out the sides with the bender?  Or approach it some other way?  Also, I missed the type of metal tubing you are using.  I assume SS, but what type of metal?  304, 316, .... and did you have a specific reason for choosing it?

[keepat]

I know you have been thanked for posting this, but just want to thank you again.  I am going to pass along a few of your pictures to someone in my lab who is designing and assembling a gas transfer manifold for a mass spectrometer.   I have a question out of curiosity.  Can you describe how you bent the large arc?  Did you bend it around a form and then bend out the sides with the bender?  Or approach it some other way?  Also, I missed the type of metal tubing you are using.  I assume SS, but what type of metal?  304, 316, .... and did you have a specific reason for choosing it?

You are welcome, glad I could help! All the tubing is 316 stainless steel and most is .035 wall but the brake lines are .028 wall. As for the large arc, I started at the master cylinder making a short template pipe just to get the shape down to the frame. This test pipe also allowed me to see how all the different lines would clear each other without committing to a shape on a long line. With all the lines templated around the master cylinder I could bending the actual line. Starting with duplicating the short template I made at the master cylinder then working each bend from the driver's side to the passenger's side. After making the bends from the master cylinder to the driver's side frame rail I was able to test fit the line and mark the start of the trans tunnel. Then I made a cardboard pattern of the trans tunnel along with getting the angles. I used the bender to make the 80 degree bend on the driver's side of the tunnel and then I used a 5 gal bucket to bend the arc to match the cardboard pattern (not very hi tech but it worked ;-)) Then I fit it in the car so I could mark the tube for the bend at the passenger's side of the tunnel along with the measurement and bending points to the right side frame rail. With the motor out this easy! I hope this help but please let me know if I missed something.
Thank you!
Pat     

[keepat]

Finished the left front brake line and started on the rear brake line. Fuel lines are next.
Thanks
Pat