Modern Bullitt build

[Dino]

Awesome work as always.   

I just had a discussion with my wife on what to do with the drive train in the Charger.  Either keep the 440 and modernize it with efi and so forth, or find a new hemi.  Either way the car will get a T56 as well, but I want to retain the original console.  Obviously that will not be easy but with your method it will make it a bit more diabnle.  I will likely have to trim some off the bottom of the console but I can live with that.

[redmist]

I love this build!!!

If I had the money to start over on my car, this is exactly how I would do it!

Very nice!

[keepat]

Cool 

awesome     clever stuff    ...........

That's some great fabrication skills.   

Thanks for the comments!

Awesome work as always.   

I just had a discussion with my wife on what to do with the drive train in the Charger.  Either keep the 440 and modernize it with efi and so forth, or find a new hemi.  Either way the car will get a T56 as well, but I want to retain the original console.  Obviously that will not be easy but with your method it will make it a bit more diabnle.  I will likely have to trim some off the bottom of the console but I can live with that.

Sounds like you have a cool wife if she's that engaged in what you do your charger.  My wife is very similar in fact the next car we restore will be hers, not a charger but an old 40s vintage wooden wagon. As for using the center console shifter is only about 1 inches from the location of the original automatic shifter. So with the mid shifter ocation on the T 56 you will have no problem using your original console.

I love this build!!!

If I had the money to start over on my car, this is exactly how I would do it!

Very nice!

Thank you! Happy Father's Day  to all, I hope you're enjoying it with your children or your father!
Pat

[keepat]

This is the shifter that came with the T56 and I would like to find an original 1968 T handle shifter that I can modified the T handle to trigger a relay for the reverse lockout on the new trans. If anyone has one or knows where to get one please let me know. I'll check at Carlisle in a few weeks.
Thanks
Pat

[chargerperson]

Awesome work as always.   

I just had a discussion with my wife on what to do with the drive train in the Charger.  Either keep the 440 and modernize it with efi and so forth, or find a new hemi.  Either way the car will get a T56 as well, but I want to retain the original console.  Obviously that will not be easy but with your method it will make it a bit more diabnle.  I will likely have to trim some off the bottom of the console but I can live with that.

Consistent with keepat's comments, I had no issues with the T56 and the center console for my 67 Charger.  Installed a shift lever from a 67 so car looks original. 

[WHITE AND RED 69]

Looks amazing!    That trans cross member is one sweet design.

It's these kinds of build that make me want to sell my car and start over. 

[keepat]

Looks amazing!    That trans cross member is one sweet design.

It's these kinds of build that make me want to sell my car and start over. 

Thank you, I would love to see somebody try to use the torsion bar crossmember I design, as I think it would be a great alternative for stock suspensions cars upgrading to a six speed T 56.

Pat

[67Charger440]

I sure could use one of those for this...  A518 into my '68 Charger, with torsion bar suspension.

[keepat]

I'm not sure where the transmission mount is located on and A518 but I'm sure it could be modified to work. There's not much left of the top of your crossmember to be functional with a torsion bar suspension.
Good luck with your build!
Pat

[67Charger440]

The mount holes are centered fore and aft in-plane with the front of the crossmember.  The bottom of the rubber mount sits flush with the bottom of the stock bolt-in crossmember.  I had planned on replacing the crossmember with a boxed and reinforced one once I determined the areas that needed to be clearanced as established with the current one.  The removable lower portion would be replaced by two channels to engage the frame, joined by a 1 3/4 " tube with a ~ 30° V-bend in the center.  I like your idea even better, pending the mount being relocated to where the A518 neds it... 

[keepat]

The mount holes are centered fore and aft in-plane with the front of the crossmember.  The bottom of the rubber mount sits flush with the bottom of the stock bolt-in crossmember.  I had planned on replacing the crossmember with a boxed and reinforced one once I determined the areas that needed to be clearanced as established with the current one.  The removable lower portion would be replaced by two channels to engage the frame, joined by a 1 3/4 " tube with a ~ 30° V-bend in the center.  I like your idea even better, pending the mount being relocated to where the A518 neds it... 

Do you have any good pictures from the bottom showing the trans mount and shape of the trans?
Thanks
Pat

[keepat]

Test fit the hood today to check the clearance for the air cleaner and was happy to see there is 2 ½" at the front throttlebody and 3 ½" at the rear throttlebody. My earlier estimates were at about 2 3/8" and where an 1/8" more may not sound like much, it is a lot!  Before ordering the modern-man Indy intake I could not find any info on the hood clearance other than the folks at Indy saying it will fit. Not sure it if would be the same with the stock K member?
Thanks
Pat

[67Charger440]

Do you have any good pictures from the bottom showing the trans mount and shape of the trans?
Thanks
Pat

I'll get a few when I get home.  I've got it tucked up about 1/2" high (bottomed out high) checking clearance right now...

[Ryan]

I must say for once that I am happy that I put my project on hold.  This build is giving me lots of ideas and inspiration.  One of the most tasteful builds I have seen..... and your fab skills aint to shabby either 

[67Charger440]

Here's a few views of the A518 fit...  The bolt-in crossmember still hits 2 ribs at the rear of the trans preventing it from seating fully.  The front side was clearanced just enough to take measurements for depth of cut to set the rubber mount in there.  Still a work in progress.

[keepat]

Today I stated fitting the backseat to see what modifications would be needed to fit the min-tubs. Both inter wheel wells have been moved inboard about 2 ½" each. After the 1st test fit I was pleasantly surprised to find very little modifications would be required, and most importantly the stock seat cover could be used!









The seat needed no modification as the seat frame cleared the wheel well.









The two tabs at the bottom of each wheel well needed to be moved to their original location. The tabs hold the seat back down.









These two metal rods need to be moved in about 1 ½" on each side to clear the wheel well.





Here you can see the 2 rods moved and the original rod to show the difference.





Fits great just need new black seat covers.
Thanks
Pat

[netcorp]

Im following this build like a hawk. Just purchased a 1968 R/T here in Sydney Australia and you're doing a lot of what I have planned. Wanting a modern handling braking car in an old muscle car. Your skills are to be admired. Great documentation of your fabrication and repair work. Keep up the great work!

[keepat]

Welcome, and congratulations on the purchase of your charger. you will need to post some picture ASAP!
Thank You!
Pat 

[VegasCharger]

Great work Pat

I got to ask, are you going to have power windows?

If you've stated that earlier in this thread please forgive me as I do not remember and I didn't feel like going back thru it and read it all.

[keepat]

Great work Pat

I got to ask, are you going to have power windows?

If you've stated that earlier in this thread please forgive me as I do not remember and I didn't feel like going back thru it and read it all.

Yes I am planning on power windows however the controls will actually be the traditional crank up window handles. The bullet movie charger had crank up windows so I'd like to keep the theme the same but have the convenience of the power windows. We use the same controls on my sons bullet Mustang, you lift the handle up a half an inch and the windows go up you push the handle down half an inch and the windows go down. Only downside is you cannot operate the rest of the windows but it looks and works cool!
Thank you!
Pat

[TCB]

WOW!  This is such a professional build.  I know its a private car, but  I'm amazed that a magazine hasn't been following your progress. I would love to read an article on this one. 

[keepat]

WOW!  This is such a professional build.  I know its a private car, but  I'm amazed that a magazine hasn't been following your progress. I would love to read an article on this one. 

Thank You! I've had two cars I build make it into magazines and maybe one day this 1 will make it to print??
Pat

[keepat]

I picked up an aluminum air cleaner from Chris with Classic Haulage at Carlisle PA yesterday. Chris is a nice guy and he makes a great aluminum Hemi type air cleaner. A chrome plated repro of the original steel air cleaner is now available but as my motor is all aluminum I keep the aluminum theme. I need to make a custom filter base and get a 426 Hemi Head air cleaner sticker to finish the look.
Thanks
Pat       

[VegasCharger]

I picked up an aluminum air cleaner from Chris with Classic Haulage at Carlisle PA yesterday. Chris is a nice guy and he makes a great aluminum Hemi type air cleaner. A chrome plated repro of the original steel air cleaner is now available but as my motor is all aluminum I keep the aluminum theme. I need to make a custom filter base and get a 426 Hemi Head air cleaner sticker to finish the look.
Thanks
Pat       

I'm sure you will manage with what skills you have.

And cudos to the PW set-up. Question, since you've already experienced the crank handle style pw switch what if someone were to mistake them for a regular crank style regulator and started turning the crank handle with force thinking that it will need that force to roll up or down the window? Are they pretty durable?

I always wondered what would happen in that scenario. Say that you were with a group of friends with your car and they didn't know about the window switch and they tried it while you were not noticing it.

Anyway great progress and I'm sure it will find its way to some magazine

[Dino]

Great work Pat

I got to ask, are you going to have power windows?

If you've stated that earlier in this thread please forgive me as I do not remember and I didn't feel like going back thru it and read it all.



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Yes I am planning on power windows however the controls will actually be the traditional crank up window handles. The bullet movie charger had crank up windows so I'd like to keep the theme the same but have the convenience of the power windows. We use the same controls on my sons bullet Mustang, you lift the handle up a half an inch and the windows go up you push the handle down half an inch and the windows go down. Only downside is you cannot operate the rest of the windows but it looks and works cool!
Thank you!
Pat

You know, it really wouldn't take much to add some modern, flat impulse switches under the dash, or in some other area where they go unnoticed, so you can operate all 4 windows.  Add two of these and you can make them one touch power windows, have a vent feature, and have them close when you arm the alarm..   

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-DIRECTED-DEI-535T-CAR-POWER-WINDOW-AUTOMATION-MODULE-ROLL-UP-DOWN-4-ALARM-/151222724919