Carb on small engine is clogged, how to fix?

[Dino]

This is for my craftsman snow blower which I used exactly zero times because the sob will not start.  The carb is clogged.  I was able to remove parts of it but couldn't get to the jets.  The fuel bowl was coated in gunk so I can only imagine what the rest looks like.  Before I shell out a few hundred to have a tech come over, is there anything I can pour in the tank that will go to work on the gunk and maybe free up whatever passageway(s) that is blocked? 

And IF I get it running, what do I use to keep it from happening again?  Stabil didn't do it apparently.

[b5blue]

Remove it and the gas tank for a good tear down cleaning. Lacquer thinner cut the crap in my six pack's bowl but be careful of rubber parts. The only thing that works is drain the system bone dry for long storage after "fogging" with oil.  Relax you have at least 6 mo. to get this done, don't bang your head doing it!   

[Dodgecharger74]

you are from MI   I left may snow equipment there and moved to FL

[Cooter]

See this every other day. People let em sit way too long. The newer ones have anti-diesel solenoid in the bottom of bowl that gives a fit when plugged. Lots of very small passages. Good luck, but we've had to always rebuild.

[Dino]

Totally my fault Cooter, I put it away with some stabil in it thinking that ought to do it but no go.

So I removed the carb, took it apart and yep, clogged from top to bottom.  I cleaned it all out and did the same to the tank.  All clean now!   

So I tried to fire it up with the electric starter but it wouldn't go.  Then I noticed fuel spitting out of the exhaust so I pulled the plug and it's soaked.

I'm gonna get a new plug but what do I do to prevent that one from dying as well?  The manual says to have the choke on and the throttle on full.

Sound right?

[Cooter]

Careful Dino, you may have a stuck float....leave choke off, hit it with some GOOD carb cleaner.
hold 1/2 throttle and spin it over.

[Dino]

I checked the float and it moves freely.  Still, it's a weird setup.  The needle on the float has a small spring that doesn't seem to do much of anything.  The carb bowl does fill up and the plug is still getting soaked with fuel.

Maybe this sucker has no spark.  Maybe the wiring is not right.  That plastic key is supposed to keep the contacts apart to start right?  I'll stick a screwdriver in the plug head and see if I can get a spark against the chassis.  This is not right.

[Dino]

Got no spark!  Quickly googled it and it may be the coil.  I'm tired of messing around with this thing so sears can come play with it.  I have a Charger to work on dammit!   

At least the carb is clean now!   

Thanks for the help guys.

[71 SE3834V]

Dino, don't have sears do it. You'll might as well bend over! I repair these for a living. In 14 yrs I haven't seen a bad coil on a snowblower. Lawnmower yes but not snow. Most likely a switch or wire problem. Disconnect the small wire from the switch that goes into the fan housing. The coil will fire all the time unless that wire is grounded under the fan housing.
Something might be amiss in the carb still as you shouldn't get that much fuel out the muffler unless the carb is flooding. That funny spring stabilizes the float to keep it from jumping around.
Did you get the jet cleaned? Your carb could flood through the vent but if the jet is plugged it still won't run.
When you put stabil in last spring did you run it to get the stabil into the carb? Never had a problem over the years but I do like to drain the carb for storage.

[Ghoste]

Why would the coil fail on a mower but not a blower?  (bad rhyme for a legit question)

[Dino]

I'll try to disconnect the wire and see what it does.  I did get the jet out and cleaned, it was pretty clogged but is free flowing now.  I did run it with the stabil but it was still gummed up.  I 'think' the spring and float are on as they should, seems there's only one way to put it on.   

I removed the plug head, stuck a screwdriver in it and tried to get a spark against the frame and nothing happened.  I even touched the screwdriver to make sure and no jolt, nothing.

[71 SE3834V]

Why would the coil fail on a mower but not a blower?  (bad rhyme for a legit question)

Heat.

Same reason we mount our ECM's on the fender or firewall, to get them away from the engine heat.

[Ghoste]

Okay, that makes perfect sense. 

[71 SE3834V]

Okay, that makes perfect sense. 

Here's the real evidence.
I see far more Tecumseh failures over Briggs & Stratton. Now that could be a design or quality issue but up until 4 or 5 years ago, before Tecumseh went out of business, about 95% of snowblowers used Tecumseh engines using the same coil as their mowers. Only difference was a shorter spark plug lead. Why would I see a handful of coil failures on mowers p/yr in my small shop but in 14 or so yrs of doing this full time I have never replaced a coil (armature) on a snowblower. Heat has to be the logical answer.

[71 SE3834V]

I'll try to disconnect the wire and see what it does.  I did get the jet out and cleaned, it was pretty clogged but is free flowing now.  I did run it with the stabil but it was still gummed up.  I 'think' the spring and float are on as they should, seems there's only one way to put it on.   

I removed the plug head, stuck a screwdriver in it and tried to get a spark against the frame and nothing happened.  I even touched the screwdriver to make sure and no jolt, nothing.

Be aware that there won't be near the spark that a car produces. If the screwdriver is too far away you won't get anything. I just attach a plug to the lead and rest the ground electrode or body of the plug on "clean" metal (no paint or rust) and look for the spark to jump across the gap. Try another plug before moving on.

[Dino]

I'll try to disconnect the wire and see what it does.  I did get the jet out and cleaned, it was pretty clogged but is free flowing now.  I did run it with the stabil but it was still gummed up.  I 'think' the spring and float are on as they should, seems there's only one way to put it on.   

I removed the plug head, stuck a screwdriver in it and tried to get a spark against the frame and nothing happened.  I even touched the screwdriver to make sure and no jolt, nothing.

Be aware that there won't be near the spark that a car produces. If the screwdriver is too far away you won't get anything. I just attach a plug to the lead and rest the ground electrode or body of the plug on "clean" metal (no paint or rust) and look for the spark to jump across the gap. Try another plug before moving on.

I did get a new spark plug so I have two to play with.  I held the screwdriver in my hand while hitting the starter and didn't feel anything.  Should I not or is it too weak to feel even?

Is the wire I need to disconnect one of the ones where the plastic key goes?

[71 SE3834V]

Yeah you should be able to feel it but it's been a long time since I've tried that (not a glutton for punishment) so I can't say how much.
Yes disconnect the small wire from the switch but follow it and disconnect as close to the fan housing as you can.
I'm assuming since it has a plastic key it is a 2 stage snowthrower with a 4 cycle engine or is it a newer single stage with a 2 or 4 cycle?
Does it have a fast & slow throttle that shuts off the engine or does it run at one speed?
Pictures would help so I can see the design.

The ultimate test if you suspect coil failure is to remove the fan housing (not easy on a snowblower), disconnect the small "kill" wire at the coil, spin the engine over fast enough by hand to check for spark. It should spark all the time with wire disconnected. The kill wire grounds out the coil. I have seen the wire pinched on lawnmowers grounding the ignition but to date not on snowblower not that it couldn't happen especially if someone has opened it up and messed w/it, no offense.

[Dino]

None taken.   

It's a 2 stage, 4 cycle 26" Craftsman.  I would guess about 6 years old now. I'm trying to remember the model number but I can only recall it starts with 247.xxxxxx

I'll give it a shot tonight, the Sears guy is supposed to come tomorrow so if I can't fix it, we'll be paying a 100 bucks just for him to come look at it.  It sucks but I don't know what else to do.  I'm also enrolled in 11 credits in a 7 week period so I'm pretty busy. I'm lucky to spend an hour a week on my car.

[71 SE3834V]

None taken.  

It's a 2 stage, 4 cycle 26" Craftsman.  I would guess about 6 years old now. I'm trying to remember the model number but I can only recall it starts with 247.xxxxxx

I'll give it a shot tonight, the Sears guy is supposed to come tomorrow so if I can't fix it, we'll be paying a 100 bucks just for him to come look at it.  It sucks but I don't know what else to do.  I'm also enrolled in 11 credits in a 7 week period so I'm pretty busy. I'm lucky to spend an hour a week on my car.

I could have that FIXED for under $100 even if I had to replace the coil. New coils are about $35 in my parts book. Might be cheaper on ebay. Shouldn't be but an hour labor @ $55 p/hr.  

Sears sucks. I once had a guy tell me he paid up front for them to come out to do a tune up. When they got there the rider wouldn't start due to a bad starter. They didn't have the means to replace the starter!   He couldn't get his money back so he brought it to me to replace the starter then take it back home and call them again to come out to do the tune up!

Does your throttle shut the engine down? I'm asking because my old Ariens snowthrower shuts the engine down both at the throttle and with a key. I always leave the key on. Every once in a while someone shuts it off w/the key and leaves it off and I'm so used to turning the throttle up, choking it and pulling away that I pull and pull until I realize the key is off.  

At least you get an hour. I haven't touched my car (repair wise) since it was put away last fall. I did go over and start it a few weeks ago but that was mostly to move it outta the way so I could get some equipment into and outta the storage garage.

[Dino]

I cancelled the Sears guy, I don't have the time to look at it tonight, waaaaay too much reading to do.  With your advice I'm sure I can find what's going on with this thing and I do have a bit of time before the next snow fall.   

It sucks to not have time to play with the toys but like me I'm sure you have your priorities.  Once I get mine running again we should meet up!  I'm going to have some time this July and August as well so I'm looking forward to doing some car stuff.

And if you need help with anything I will be happy to help.   

[71 SE3834V]

Got all summer to "get 'er done."

[Ghoste]

Who knows, maybe it won't even snow next winter. 

[71 SE3834V]

.....  Once I get mine running again we should meet up!  I'm going to have some time this July and August as well so I'm looking forward to doing some car stuff....  

I'll have to warn ya though.......If I don't get the 383 road worthy by then I'll have to drive the Ferd. It's my 4 door pimpmobile.

[Dino]

.....  Once I get mine running again we should meet up!  I'm going to have some time this July and August as well so I'm looking forward to doing some car stuff....  

I'll have to warn ya though.......If I don't get the 383 road worthy by then I'll have to drive the Ferd. It's my 4 door pimpmobile.

Uh oh, we can't have that now can we? 

What does the 383 need?

[71 SE3834V]

I'm still not 100% sure but to make a long story as short as possible I spent most of last spring try to figure it out going over all the basics. I knew it needed a timing chain/gear replacement so that was done in August which didn't help. Got burned out on it by fall. I don't have anywhere to work on it out of the cold (I have heat for the garage but it's only a 1 car) so it was put away for the winter. I believe I might have some sticking lifters or it needs a valve job.