Carb to pump fuel line issue

[Dino]

It was enough of a headache to fit the short fuel line that goes from the pump to the vapor separator but why I thought that would be the only issue is beyond me... 

This line is supposed to run from the TQ to the separator.  I had to use an adapter to fit the line to the carb so the whole thing moved over a bit.  No biggie, but look at what's going on at the separator.

Any suggestions on how I fix this?  I have had zero luck with bending these and I even have a nice flat spot on the shorter fuel line because of it.

Should I just cut off a piece?

[Hard Charger]

looks like you have a good opportunity to cut the line above and reflare for a rubber hose.

[ottawamerc]

 

Scott

[myk]

Yeah there's no way around cutting that line that I can see...

[XH29N0G]

Cutting will work.  You might use a loop of hose though, make a full circle loop, that way it will circle around up high where it connects to the vapor separator.  

As far as bending tubing and cutting, use a tube bender to keep from kinking, and cut with a cutter rather than a blade because of particles.

I do mock ups with copper refrigerator tubing.

[Dino]

I do have a bender but it's lousy so my bad for even trying.  If somehow the short run kinked too much and I have fuel starvation issues I'll get another one and have a pro bend it.

So where should I cut the line?

[ottawamerc]

I would cut it just to the right of where it passes the fuel pump (first elbow) then if possible just bend the next elbow to give a bit of clearance from the pump body. Run a rubber line from the top of your vapor canister-loop it and back into your fuel line. Oh put a small flare there too preferably a reverse flare to hold the rubber fuel line. There should be a clamp spot on the block above the fuel pump to hold the line to the carb firmly. Easy peasy!!

Scott

[Dino]

So you would only cut off an inch or so?  I thought about cutting it where it runs straight down just to make some more room but I'll cut it short first and see how that works.  Would a loop in a hose not cause issues?

Also, where is the hose supposed to be secured to the block?

[firefighter3931]

Dirk,

I would cut it off where the line aims down...at the bottom of that section before it bends back in towards the block. Put a flare/barb on the line to help it seal up tight with the clamp. That will give you a pretty straight shot up from the vapor seperator. The less turns/bends you have in the fuel line, the better it will flow. The other thing i don't like to see is fuel line close to or touching the engine block or any heat source. That's just asking for trouble with vapor lock. 


Ron

[Dino]

Cool!  That's where I was inclined to cut it.  I 'may' be able to make the bend touching the valve cover a bit wider so it clears but I have my doubts.  IF it still touches, I'll wrap some heat insulation around that corner.

[A383Wing]

get that line away from the block and valve cover...it should not touch anything...if it touches, it will rub a hole in the tubing...amazingly fast...I'm sure you can figure out what would happen next

[Dino]

Yeah that would be bad.  I'll see if I can lift it straight up to give it some clearance.  Worst case scenario, this run of line won't work but that's better than creating a fire!

[ACUDANUT]

I wonder, who still uses a "vapor separator " on their Mopar ?

[Dino]

I cut the line and it looks like this will work just fine.  I don't think I can get the bend to go past the valve cover though, but I can lift it straigt up and out of harms way.

I have a flaring tool but no barb tool.  Not sure how I'm going to do this.

[Dino]

Turns out I only have part of the tool.  The flaring tool was left behind by the previous owner but it's missing those small attachments.  If I had those then I could make a bubble.  I'll take it to O'Reilly and see if they can do it for me or rent me the tool.  If they can also widen one of the lines angles then it may even clear the valve cover as well.

[70sixpkrt]

I wonder, who still uses a "vapor separator " on their Mopar ?

I still do.

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

I wonder, who still uses a "vapor separator " on their Mopar ?

I still do.

As do I....

[Dino]

Swung by O'Reilly's today and they let me use their flaring tool and the adapter I did not have.  Took two minutes and the line now has a decent bubble on the end!  Tomorrow the line's going in, followed by the alternator and my new custom made wires.  This car may be completed before the end of time after all!   

[71 SE3834V]

Well I was gonna let you use my flaring tool and nifty tubing bender but a day late and more than a few dollars short I guess.
Oreillys was a lot closer anyways but don't hesitate to ask if I got something Dino. I gotta garage full of tools! 

[Dino]

Well I was gonna let you use my flaring tool and nifty tubing bender but a day late and more than a few dollars short I guess.
Oreillys was a lot closer anyways but don't hesitate to ask if I got something Dino. I gotta garage full of tools! 

Thanks buddy, much appreciated!   

And that goes both ways.  If you need something I may have, please ask.   

[Dino]

I finger tightened the hard line at the carb to see how the line would go.  I stuck a plug wire on the dizzy and a spacer on the alt bolt.  The line clears the valve cover and the plug wire by about 1 mm.  It also rests on the spacer.  When the rubber hose is added to the line I will be able to push it up to clear the spacer as well but it's damn close everywhere.  My old line had pieces of hose zip tied around it where it would touch things.  Should I do the same here or leave it as is and hope for no vapor lock?

I ran back in the garage and mounted the alternator to see what that would do.  The line had to come up as it now hits one of the alt's mounting ears but I was able to push it up a bit and although it still touches, it's just barely.  With the alt swung to the side and belts tight it barely touches.  The most contact is on the side of the plug wire's rubber boot.

What a friggin' headache to install a line that is supposed to fit.  I'm not buying that crap ever again.  I'm almost inclined to just run a rubber hose from carb to separator.  We'll see how this works out.  If I have vapor lock then the line goes.

[71 SE3834V]

Well I was gonna let you use my flaring tool and nifty tubing bender but a day late and more than a few dollars short I guess.
Oreillys was a lot closer anyways but don't hesitate to ask if I got something Dino. I gotta garage full of tools!  

Thanks buddy, much appreciated!  
And that goes both ways.  If you need something I may have, please ask.  

At this point I think I need more man power than tools to get my ride back on the road. Been having a tough time with my arthritis. Anyway:

Looking at all your pics I think I would just rebend that line and if it doesn't look straight & pretty, cover it with flex tubing or something to make it look better. That really sucks for being a "pre-formed" line. I woulda formed one myself. Done plenty of brake, trans & fuel lines w/o kinking.
I think it would look better if it came out farther from the carb and run parallel to the valve cover then 45* between the dist. & cover then make a 90 downturn.
Ah heck, forgot to post a pic of the bending tool...

[71 SE3834V]

I don't remember and I don't have my car here to look but is there enough room to run the line under the dist.? (mine is rubber and running over the valve cover tied up to the heater hose anyway)
It looks like if you made a bend along the long straightaway it would bring the 2 back to back 90's back so maybe it would run under the dist.

I got tomorrow late morning/afternoon free......

[ottawamerc]

Ya when I made mine for my 6 pack I bent it to fit under my distributor for cleaner looks. I have 2 of those benders that 71SE has and I have found that they work well with the steel fuel lines and not too $$$.

Scott

[71 SE3834V]

Yeah it works well. The only problem with it is if you need to make 2) 90's back to back. The part at the top that holds the line sticks out too far to make 2) tight 90's. That's when you have to break out the basic bender.