Radiator recor or not

[Hard Charger]

I need some opinions here.

     Just putting the 68 back together after 3 years. I am down to the radiator and it is original. It looks a little tattered so I brought to the radiator shop. Guy says it doesn't look to bad but he will remove the tank and clean it (rod it) out for $110.

     When I got the car in 06 I needed to have it flushed out. and 3 years ago when driving in hot weather it would start to boil over. Now a little boiling over is nothing new for these cars, but of course we want to start out after a restoration on a good footing. What's a $110 at this point right, drop in bucket after spending 23K.

     The question is should I go for a 3-row re-core for $500? After-all 2-cores were fine for all these years. I am looking for a factory look. I think a new Alum radiator is cheaper now a days. I do not plan on going cross country either any time soon.

is $500 a good price for the 3-row re-core?

[cudaken]

Harder Charger, is the current motor stock? If stock you should be able to get by with the rodding if there are no smokers. A Smoker is after the core is rodded out, there are little pin holes that had been clogged up by crap in the core. When that happens a lot of shop will just pinch off the tubes.

I use to own a radiator shop. Good chances you would be able to get a there row in there and still look stock. My self, I went with a 4 row, but I am far from being stock.

Cuda Ken

 

[Hard Charger]

the car is stock with a numbers matching engine.

man at the shop said it looks good so I would imagine rust will not be an issue.

would a 3 core be worth the $500?

[justcruisin]

I had a factory two core at one stage, all OK on the open road but it would heat up in traffic. Depending on when your engine was last apart and cleaned out if you didn't do it as part of the resto - it could have considerable build up in the skirts and water passages. IMHO, don't cheap out on a radiator, it only takes once to cause damage. Get the upgrade of the 3 core, especially if you have a 22" radiator. Personally if it was me and I was going for the factory look, I would put in a 4 core on tighter tube spacings, probably over kill but as you say - you are already at 23K. Regardless of what you do it would be a good idea to make sure the engine is free of any build up.

[myk]

More rows don't guarantee a cooler radiator...

[Hard Charger]

so what do you think making my 22" a 3 or 4 core should cost?

[cudaken]

Hard Charger, check E Bay. While it been 10 years ago I bought a new 4 row for around $250.00 or so. Been a while and do not remember any details.  Getting old sucks. 

I was out of the radiator business and back into running a body shop.

Cuda Ken

[justcruisin]

In my experience adding an extra row does help. The secret is enough air flow through the radiator. I installed a 3 core alloy radiator in place of a 2 core copper/brass, (but I'm not going for the factory look), both radiators had tubes on 3/8 spacings. There is no comparison to how well the new radiator cools compared with the 2 core old one. Not sure on your idea of resto but classic industries do American Radiators which have the factory look, they also list all the prices. Have a look on American Radiators site, do a search on the differences in radiator construction. All I am saying is if you are limited with a 22" radiator, more rows and tighter tube spacing is all you can do. For what it is worth - my engine is 440 500hp with 2800 stall. I run a 3 core 22" aluminium radiator with 3/4 tubes on 3/8 spacings. It works great in all conditions, but as I said good air flow through the radiator is key.

[c00nhunterjoe]

If you insist on "stock" then summit has free shipping on their direct fit spectra 3 row brass 26" chrysler radiator for $253. I would get the aluminum big end brand radiator. My local speed shop has the direct fit for 160.

[Hard Charger]

thanks everyone for the good information.

I ended up having the old radiator recored with a 3 row.

factory look and will fit like a glove.

[cudaken]

It will be a big step in the right direction! My 4 row tamed the over heating beast Miss Lumpy! (nick name given to my 68 Road Runner by a site member)

Let us know, Cuda Ken

[Hard Charger]

ok everyone, I picked up my beautiful 3 row recor today. I requested they don't paint that I will do it myself. so I have bare brass and copper.
I take out my (old) Eastwood rad paint and spray the back of the tanks and it starts lifting right away.

is there a trick to painting this radiator? I used pre and cleaned first. the garage was at 60 degrees. can I use regular enamel semi gloss?

[ODZKing]

ok everyone, I picked up my beautiful 3 row recor today. I requested they don't paint that I will do it myself. so I have bare brass and copper.
I take out my (old) Eastwood rad paint and spray the back of the tanks and it starts lifting right away.

is there a trick to painting this radiator? I used pre and cleaned first. the garage was at 60 degrees. can I use regular enamel semi gloss?

I had my rad shop give it one quick coat then I repainted over with trim paint black.
If it isn't clean, paint won't stick. It must have a film or something on it.

[Hard Charger]

what about the issue of temperature? will the SEM trim paint peel due to heat?

[ODZKing]

what about the issue of temperature? will the SEM trim paint peel due to heat?

Should have mentioned, just painted the tank, not the fins.

[cudaken]

what about the issue of temperature? will the SEM trim paint peel due to heat?

Should have mentioned, just painted the tank, not the fins.

I paint the fins as well is they are copper.

[bakerhillpins]

Had my 26" re cored (3 row) last summer for $500.  Shop painted it for me with a high temp black paint. They painted the fins but they didn't go for full coating. Sort of shot the color about 30 or so degrees off of the normal so that from an angle it still looked black. If you get up close and personal it's not painted through though.  Don't want to block any of the air flow with paint drips.