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Help a body and paint dummy please...

Started by CaptMarvel, April 27, 2007, 01:24:00 PM

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CaptMarvel

Ok, I finally got that spare 68 front fender blasted and it wasnt nearly as bad as Id thought, so I'll be using it instead of my stock one thats got the nasty front crumple damage. My question, now that its entirely clean and nekked down to bare metal inside and out, what would be best, just spray it with epoxy primer and later do the slight body repairs that it needs (some former wrinkle from a bygone smack) and some very light pitting from former heavy rust in a few small areas) or do I have to do all of the slight filler work now and then only prime when all is completely done? I hear various schools of thought it seems. I hate to let it sit unpainted for too long (its inside but still) so any ideas? also, what is best for slight body filling and as far as epoxy primer??? or what....I think I can do a fair job when it comes to spraying and painting eventually, but Im really lost on this prep stuff...thanks...

MichaelRW

I would do the body work first, then acid etch primer the bare metal areas and then a 2K primer over the whole fender following the manufacturers tech sheets.
A Fact of Life: After Monday and Tuesday even the calendar says WTF.........

Charger-Bodie

i would spray the entire fender with epoxy primer then do the body work after thats done spray polysurfacer, block it out and spray it with primer surfacer if it nice and straight and smooth final block it seal and paint
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

RogerDodger

I have heard people on both sides of this one. I chose to put a coat of epoxy primer on the bare metal as soon as it was ready. My reason is that I primarily get to work on it on the weekends and there could be an extended period of time before it would otherwise be ready to prime. If I did this full time and the time the metal is bare is minimal then I might do it differently. Then I did all my bodywork and covered any metal that was exposed during sanding with more epoxy. Next use a surfacing primer and block it down. Take a spray can of a different color and lightly dust over the surfacing primer before you block it. This will help you see any low spots and help you tell when its ready for paint. :Twocents:

Charger-Bodie

body filler adheres to epoxy primer better than it does to bare metal ! if you use poly surfacer make sure you use a epoxy that will allow poly surfacer over it. make sure if you recoat the bare metal spots with more epoxy that you let it dry completely or it could backfire 
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

Arigmaster

Quote from: 1hot68 on April 29, 2007, 08:21:52 AM
body filler adheres to epoxy primer better than it does to bare metal ! if you use poly surfacer make sure you use a epoxy that will allow poly surfacer over it. make sure if you recoat the bare metal spots with more epoxy that you let it dry completely or it could backfire 

:iagree:

CaptMarvel

Ok, so whats the best epoxy primer and body filler to use for something like this. Brands anyone likes better than others?

RogerDodger

I use PPG just because thats what I'm familiar with and I have a supplier close by. Epoxy primer is DP74LF. The 74 is for red oxide. Its avilable in several colors. Any lightweight plastic filler should be fine. I use their Kondar DZ acrylic primer surfacer about 3 coats and then block it down. As a sealer I use the epoxy again just mix it a little thinner. Here is their website: http://www.ppg.com/cr-refinish/phase1/frmProductInfo.asp

72Charger72

New to body work and wondering what you mean by block it down? trying to learn ...Do you mean sanding it with a hand block?

RogerDodger

Quote from: 7#1ChargerRT# on April 25, 2014, 07:33:03 AM
New to body work and wondering what you mean by block it down? trying to learn ...Do you mean sanding it with a hand block?

Yes. Use a block to keep it nice and flat. Eastwood has some nice flexible blocks good for contours. http://www.eastwood.com/autobody/sanders.html
Use a few coats of a high build polyester primer then lightly spray paint another color over it. Just spots. As you block it down you will see where the low spots are. You might try to search you tube for a video how to.

ottawamerc

Quote from: 7#1ChargerRT# on April 25, 2014, 07:33:03 AM
New to body work and wondering what you mean by block it down? trying to learn ...Do you mean sanding it with a hand block?

Ya thats right. best to do also atleast on the final to "blend all the panels together. Fender to door- door to Quarter etc. It will give you great finished product.

Scott :cheers:
This hobby is more than just our cars, it's the people you get to meet along the way!!!

Pete in NH

Hi,

Do an internet search on the name Durablock you should come up with some pictures of the sanding blocks. They are usually made of hard rubber and come various shapes and sizes to fit the curves and contours on a car. After you put on coats of 2K primer-surfacer you block sand it to get it straight , smooth and level. You put on a guide coat of a contrasting color to show you the high and low spots on the panel. As you block sand , the  guide coat will be sanded off the high spots and show you the low spots.

72Charger72

Thanks that explains alot...will do some googling also

hemi-hampton

Here's a example of some guide coat & blocking. LEON.