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Finally picked up my 73 and got about 2 miles before back on wrecker

Started by WH23G3G, April 23, 2014, 10:53:45 PM

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WH23G3G

After 8 months at a shop to fix my 'mistakes' I finally picked up my 73 Charger today and didn't make it but about 2 miles before it pegged out and overheated. I had to get it towed again. Its a 73 400-4bbl .040 over. I rebuilt the engine, front end, rear suspension, interior, and exhaust. I never could get it running and timed right. So I took it to a shop which I've known personally for 10 years. They fixed some vacuum leaks, tried 3 rebuilt carbs, and a new edelbrock, had front end aligned, fixed exhaust manifold gaskets, fixed a radiator leak, and still didnt run right. So then they told me that it needed an intake gasket. So they replaced my intake and gasket. When I drove it home today it did run smooth, no bumps, or squeaks, no vibrations, had great power, stopped good eventhough brake light was on, and drove straight. But it overheated super quick. He said the clutch fan wasn't working, I replaced it when before I took it in and the thermostat. He said it needed a thermostat too. When it overheated on the way home it went all the way to H and the overflow tank was bubbling and all the way at the top. When we first started it up I only added a little to the tank but when it overheated it was full. Then while I had it sitting cooling off I heard gurgling in the radiator and then the tank went totally dry. The pressure in the hose went down and didn't see any bulging or anything when it was hot. There's no oil and water mixed together, the flow is good, it's got a Milodon high flow water pump, a a/c 7 blade aluminum original fan. What's it take to cool these things off? So after 8 months and $1000 and arguing every week with this clown to get him to do something and after him saying it's ready I didn't make it 2 miles. Now I have to take it somewhere else.

myk

What's it take to cool these things?  Not a lot, but one wrong thing can ruin it all.

Normally I would've said thermostat but you say your mechanic changed it; I wish you could verify the operation of the thermostat.  How are your hoses?  Are one of them collapsed?  Are you sure your water pump is pumping fluid?  How's your radiator?  Could it be clogged and need rodding out?  You mentioned the repair of a "leaky radiator."  How was this repair performed?  I hope it wasn't with one of those repair-in-a-tube type of deals; they can cause more trouble than you already have...

Back N Black

Maybe there is air trapped in the system, try burping the coolant system.

charger Downunder

With out seeing pics of your engine bay area, I would check that you have a spring in the bottom radiator hose to stop it from collapsing,
Milodon high flow water pump, a a/c 7 blade aluminum original fan If you have an A/c car you will have a small water pump pulley and this will cause cavitation in the pump, turning to quick and preventing good water flow.
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firefighter3931

Quote from: Back N Black on April 24, 2014, 05:56:00 AM
Maybe there is air trapped in the system, try burping the coolant system.


Yep  :yesnod:

Get the front end up on a set of ramps and remove the rad cap. Start the engine and let it idle until the thermostat opens and for several minutes afterwards. If you see the coolant level drop you'll know that there was an air pocket trapped somewhere in the cooling system. Look for bubbles and depending on the size of the air pocket...a BIG Burp.  :icon_smile_big:

Trapped air will rise so getting it out means making the rad filler the highest point to release it.  :yesnod:



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

BSB67

Certainly try the simple stuff mention first.

But, the less simple stuff:
1) Radiator - if you don't personally know for sure that it is clean, and flows good, or
2) Blown/leaking head gasket.  When it is warmed up, and the thermostat is open, look for bubbles.

Hope I'm wrong.

500" NA, Eddy head, pump gas, exhaust manifold with 2 1/2 exhaust with tailpipes
4150 lbs with driver, 3.23 gear, stock converter
11.68 @ 120.2 mph

EccentricMagpies

is it posible to have thermostat upside down?  Make sure it doesn't get above the setting 180 or whatever you bought when at idle.

If it never reaches this temp at an idle, is the thermostat in?  Motor will over heat if there is free flowing water.  Of course not at idle but when working hard.

Head gasket upside down?

'74 Rallye 4spd (WH23L4) (1 of 94)
'74 Rallye Auto (WH23L4) (quad black)
'69 Swinger 340 - 4spd
'70 Duster 340 - 4spd

WH23G3G

I took it to a mechanic that I know specializes in Mopars now. He checked out today and said it had a bad thermostat and he replaced it and it's running right in the middle. They said there was no other cooling problems found. But I didn't talk to them long enough to know if they drove it around. They also said it wasn't really running good. So the other clown I took it to probably put the intake on and just bolted the new carburetor on and let it go. I don't think they did anything to until only after I went and argued with them. So I told this mechanic I towed it to today to do a basic check over and see what else needs attention before driving it home. Shouldn't be that much more since it's all done. I know the brake light was on when we picked up yesterday and it wasn't on when I took it to the other shop 8 months ago. The new shop I took it to today said it could be a prop valve problem. So they're going to probably let me know tomorrow what else needs attention. I'm wanting to just get all the mechanical stuff done there at once so I can drive and concentrate on getting it painted. But I don't know how much or what else they're going to find wrong. I really want to get the a/c vacuumed and charged while it's there. But I don't know if it's a good idea. Since I haven't really even driven it since rebuilding it eventhough it was 3 years ago when I was done. I'll see what they say tomorrow needs to be done to be safe.

dual fours

Quote from: myk on April 24, 2014, 05:43:57 AM
What's it take to cool these things?  Not a lot, but one wrong thing can ruin it all.

Normally I would've said thermostat but you say your mechanic changed it; I wish you could verify the operation of the thermostat.  How are your hoses?  Are one of them collapsed?  Are you sure your water pump is pumping fluid?  How's your radiator?  Could it be clogged and need rodding out?  You mentioned the repair of a "leaky radiator."  How was this repair performed?  I hope it wasn't with one of those repair-in-a-tube type of deals; they can cause more trouble than you already have...
Put the thermostat in a pan of water with a thermometer and turn up the fire and watch when it opens and at what degree.
1970 Dodge Charger SE, 383 Magnum, dual fours, Winter's shifter and racing transmission.

26 END
J25 L31 M21 M31 N85 R22
VX1 AO1 A31 A47 C16 C55
FK5 CRXA TX9 A15
E63 D32 XP29 NOG

A383Wing

there are many threads on here about that hi-flow water pump...get rid of it and get a stock pump

cudaken

 
WH23G3G, glad and hope you found a truly good Mopar shop. Most general repair shops know how to do is make a car run, not many know how to make them run like they can!

Far as the over heating, I have had a few bad thermostats in my time and it could be the problem. I as well have never found the need of a high flow water pump. 85% of the time my over heating problems have been the radiator being clogged up.

Cuda Ken
I am back

Lord Warlock

doesn't hurt to just take the thermostat completely out and drive without one if you have to
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

myk

Quote from: Lord Warlock on April 25, 2014, 02:30:22 AM
doesn't hurt to just take the thermostat completely out and drive without one if you have to

Um....isn't that a no-no?

EccentricMagpies

Quote from: myk on April 25, 2014, 08:33:14 AM
Quote from: Lord Warlock on April 25, 2014, 02:30:22 AM
doesn't hurt to just take the thermostat completely out and drive without one if you have to

Um....isn't that a no-no?

yeah, that will cause it to over heat as well....
'74 Rallye 4spd (WH23L4) (1 of 94)
'74 Rallye Auto (WH23L4) (quad black)
'69 Swinger 340 - 4spd
'70 Duster 340 - 4spd

72Charger-SE

I understand wanting to get the car running and taking it to a shop if you have issues you are unable to resolve.  Please forgive me for stating the obvious, of which you may have already tried.  Might I suggest reaching out to the forum for a member in your area that is more than a little familiar with the cooling and fuel flow your car needs.  I have been helped a great deal by members here and they are all willing to lend a hand, turn a wrench, and build a friendship 'wrenching' on these old Mopars.

Good luck in your quest...
 

64dartgt

I was going to post about issues with the Mildon high flow pump I read on here.  Do a search.

Also, your intake hose might be closing off once it gets warm and flexible. Check it out.

I don't buy the clutch fan.  Sure it would help, but I don't have one and I haven't had a problem beside an annoying noise.  :Twocents:

Lord Warlock

If the car is overheating and you suspect it is the thermostat, there is nothing wrong with removing the thermostat and driving it home afterwards.  The thermostat is usually there to maintain a constant operating temperature, as well as build up heat in the engine so that the choke works right, or the car can blow warm air when you put the heater on.   Removing it may cause fluctuations in the temperature as the water flows constantly through the radiator.  In most cases this will not damage the car, and also will not usually cause the car to overheat more than it would with the thermostat in.  I've had a thermostat fail on long trips in the car and removed it and continued on with the drive of an additional 400 miles, car ran fine without it.  I will say that i was uber paranoid after removing it and was constantly watching the temperature gauge for most of the trip.

If the car is overheating, you can also turn the heater on to help cool it down as it lets the water go through the heater core which is basically a small radiator.  It won't fix the problem but it will sometimes get you home if the temp is spiking.  You do not want to keep driving when the water is boiling.
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

WH23G3G

I stopped by the shop today to check on it. The owner says it's good now. He had it running for a couple hours while he was messing with the timing and carb and the temp never got past the middle. He says he's got it running good and he had been driving it around all day. He said the last clown didn't install the edelbrock carb on right with the right bolts and didn't have the electric choke hooked up properly. He's got the motor right now. Now I'm going to have him check why the brake light is on. He said he may be able to bleed it and reset the switch because everything seems to be in good shape. Also was told the steering is tight. Eventhough I did see the last clown actually install my warranty gearbox. But the shop I have it at now is a Mopar enthusiast and said they never had the best steering to begin with and that the gearbox may need an adjustment on it. I doubt any of the other shops in my area would even know there is an adjustment on the gearbox. This shop has already done more in 2 days than the last clown did in 8 months. So should be very soon that I can get to drive it home.

cudaken


WH23G3G  :2thumbs: Heck even I know there is adjustment on the steering box, but I am a enthusiast.

Think there should be a partial refund from the first shop.

Make sure you tell us how she runs!  :drive:

Cuda Ken
I am back