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What's it worth?? 1968 dodge charger -86k mile 2 owner car*now with pictures*

Started by griz_83ho, April 23, 2014, 10:34:59 PM

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hawkeye

If I were selling, I would ask $15K.  If I were buying, I would offer $8K.  $10K-$11K is about right.

crj1968

I agree- I'd say 8 grand is a reasonable offer, and as high as 12 if you can take on the work yourself...  :Twocents:


Challenger340

It is most certainly a great starting point, and looks to be relatively complete ?
These cars are still commanding pretty stupid dollars, with parts/basket cases even fetching $3-4K on a given day,
so IMO,
$9K is fair .... with some deep thought at going up to $12K, but cognizant that the rear frame work might turn into a complete resto, whereby expect to be upside down when done.

Only wimps wear Bowties !

Lord Warlock

definitely a 68, looks to be in pretty good shape overall.  Worth buying and fixing up provided the price was right.  10k would be a good buy if the original motor was available still, trunk looks very solid for something stored a long time.  A little rot around the bumper shouldn't be a big issue, although thats not a normal place for it to rot at. 
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

ACUDANUT


TUFCAT

That looks to be a very honest car and excellent starting point for a rerstoration.... not all butchered up like many I've seen in this price range.  Like others have said, BUY, BUY, BUY!  I wouldn't hesitate to spend 10K if I was looking for a 2nd gen Charger!  I've seen worse cars go for stronger money on a regular basis.  :Twocents: :Twocents:

tan top

   :coolgleamA:  looks good from the pictures , although they don't show that much  !!   have you got any more pictures !   :popcrn:
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

griz_83ho

I will try and get some more pics in the next couple days. Think I can get the car for 7k so I'm thinking I'll pull the trigger this weekend. Like I said first mopar for me, but just live the lines of the car. Figure it would cost half that to rebuild the motor anyways: he has new long tubes for it, aluminum edelbrock intake and edelbrock 600 carb. Owner also said it had a pair of 1968 440 RT heads put on it when rebuilt. So don't know if what is good or not or helps performance but his brother in law had them from a wrecked car so he used them.

cdr

LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
Charger55 by Charlie Keel, on Flickr

Laxy

What a find, definitely grab it for that money. You'll be a Mopar convert in no time.  :icon_smile_big:
71 Valiant VH Hardtop 265 Hemi 4-speed, 71 VH Valiant Charger R/T Replica 360 4-speed, 68 Dodge Charger 440/727.

Lord Warlock

If it had a 383 magnum, it already has 440 heads on it, if its a 383 2bbl it isn't a magnum so the 440 heads may be worth the swap.  If going with a built big block, may want to get a little bigger carb, 600 is fine but the 440 can drink a lot more if you let it.  I got a 750 for mine, still have the original AVS 625 carb sitting on the shelf, wish i'd kept the others i had. 

Its best to start with as good a beginning as you can, makes building or restoring it much easier later on, and cheaper.  I kept running into situations when i removed something, if I could buy a new repop part it just made sense to me to put the new part on rather than bolt a worn but serviceable part back on, that mindset tends to get expensive in the long run, its amazing how much little trim pieces add up over time.  I still have two more sets of pieces i need to replace for the tail light panels, and it'll cost me around 600 bucks just for the 4 pieces of chrome.  Makes me cringe spending that much on small parts when i think back and remember paying 800 for the whole car in 78.
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

ACUDANUT

Ain't all big block heads "440 magnum or what ever, the same?"  Yes Sir.  :Twocents:

Ghoste


six-tee-nine

Was the trunk floor replaced already at one point? No body plugs in the trunk floor, the holes are not spamped / drilled

My guess is that some body word was done in the past.
Take a refrigirator magnet with you and check the lower quarters for bondo. Might give you some more leverage to get a little of the asking price. However price seems fair at 7k
Greetings from Belgium, the beer country

NOS is nice, turbo's are neat, but when it comes to Mopars, there's no need to cheat...


cudaken

Quote from: Ghoste on April 30, 2014, 05:11:15 AM
Basically yes, but some had smaller valves.

From 68 forward all of the BB heads where the same casting and valve sizes.

Cuda Ken
I am back

griz_83ho

I thought maybe the trunk had been replaced, that's why I wanted to post a couple pics of it and the seem sealer to see if it looked original. I mean I looks real good but this car is a original illinois Midwest car. But still it is very original and appears very clean

ACUDANUT

Quote from: cudaken on April 30, 2014, 08:09:56 AM
Quote from: Ghoste on April 30, 2014, 05:11:15 AM
Basically yes, but some had smaller valves.

From 68 forward all of the BB heads where the same casting and valve sizes.

Cuda Ken

That is why it kills me, when someone says they have 440 heads on a 383.  :brickwall:

Ghoste

Chrysler didnt help when they advertised doing it as part of the Road Runner engine.

ACUDANUT


TUFCAT

CORRECT!!  :yesnod:

The new-for-1968 906 head was not exclusive to the 440 Magnum, or the 383 Magnum, it was actually used across the board for all big blocks from 1968-69!

Chrysler confused people by advertising the 383 Magnum that "came with the 440 Magnum's free-breathing cylinder heads"....even though the standard 440, the 383 2V, and all passenger car big-blocks had the same heads ...and even the same size valves! The only difference win Magnum engines over the years was stiffer valves springs.

The last TRUE HIGH PERFORMANCE  big block head was the 1967 440 (915 casting) redesign of the 516 closed chamber head. It had revised ports, and larger intake valves,,,, but for some reason the 915 was fitted with either 1.74 or 1.60 exhaust valves.  Only Magnum or Super Commando engines had the 1.74 exhaust valves and were indentified with "H.P" stamped on the head.  A true high performance only head for 1967.

Of course, the later castings 346,452 were also part of the "one-size-fits all" casting plan.  A new casting number always identified changes that were necessary, mainly done for emission requirements.