Hideaway Headlight Relay

[Drache]

The Charger I'm going to look at supposedly needs a new "hideaway headlight relay". Are these something specific and if so where can I buy one? I need a couple online and they were $300-$400 each.... 

[b5blue]

Just ordered one Sun. they are not "EXACT" like old ones you saw but work. (Bottom of page.)
http://www.chargerspecialties.com/wiring.htm

[ODZKing]

Yeah, I see what you're saying.
3513498 superseded from 2983605.  I gotta believe NAPA would have a relay like that just without the bracket configuration.  That seems to be the only difference in most of these.

[b5blue]

They just sent my PayPal back they are out of stock. 

[A383Wing]

you can make one from a Bosch 5-pin relay, unless you are 100% stuck on staying with OE

[Drache]

No I'm not worried about going with OE. Just looking for a relay that I could swap out for the original that doesn't work. Figured I'd take one down with me to look at the Charger so if I buy it, the hideaway headlights should work.

So yeah I was wondering if I could just pick one up from Napa or someplace easily enough.

[ODZKing]

Yeah take a look at  Part Number:  Part Number: MPE AR234SB or ECH AR272 at http://www.napaonline.com
Not sure if the links will work but -

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Headlight-Door-Actuator-Relay/_/R-MPEAR234SB_0430768480

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Automatic-Headlight-Relay/_/R-ECHAR272_0429907102

You'll need to do converting of the ends but that should work

[b5blue]

  The name of this type relay is "Single Pole Double Throw". (SPDT) It switches ether or so you need to know it will have a normally closed side and an energized side. The normally closed side is doors down. 
  Also the problem could be in the motor as it has up/down contacts inside that can fail/the windings can fail/the plastic gear can fail. You can test the motor by A: being certain the motor is grounded properly first. B: Unplug the motor connector and apply +12V to each of the 2 prongs one at a time. If the motor is good the doors will cycle up and down so be clear of the movement.
  The FSM states to NEVER cycle the motor if not fully attached to the doors or you will break it.
  You can rotate the knob on the bottom of the motor to raise and lower the doors and if that is okay leave the doors up by leaving the motor unplugged to have headlights exposed for driving.
  It will be a pain in the butt to get to the wires for the relay and I doubt it will be just plug some other relay in place, you'd need to cobble patch wires for connections and the relay has a breaker attached to the side that has nuts electrically attaching it. 
  FYI-If it were my car I would not let anyone mess with the harness under there, but testing the motor would be okay.