Chris' 1968 Charger Upgrades 6/13 Bunch of updates, done uploading

[Chris 69]

Well, had a chance to do some more work on the disc brake conversion over the last couple of weekends. As of today, the discs and booster are installed and plumbed. The last outstanding part for the brakes is installing a braided stainless steel line from the frame to the rear axle as Plum Crazy 68 mentioned. The part is on its way from Jegs. Hopefully it will arrive Monday.

Following are progress photos.

First: "Old" booster and master cylinder. I installed this "new" one last year, but have to change it out now for the discs. Other picture is with the booster removed, but the support plate is still mounted to the firewall.

[Chris 69]

Then went to install MP's new booster. It wouldn't fit.

First photo is the stock booster.

Second photo is the MP booster. Note thw "wings" that extend out. These require a larger-than-stock hole in the firewall.

Per coordination with MP, I needed to enlarge the hole in the firewall and booster support bracket.

[Chris 69]

Next photos of the modified booster support bracket and firewall hole.

For the bracket, I squared-off the hole with my pneumatic cutoff wheel.

For the firewall, the only required modification was to square-off the top of the hole. Did this with a Dremel and mill bit.

Then the booster fit! Don't have a photo of the booster installed pre-plumbed... What a pain to install the two top nuts on the booster on the inside of the firewall!!

[Chris 69]

Then plumbed up the booster. Note that the stock brake valve is installed on the inside driver's side frame rail, and MP's new brake valve is installed on a bracket below the master cylinder.

1. For the rear brake line, I rounded the fitting on the rigid tube while trying to remove it from the stock brake valve, so I cut it, and installed a new fitting and flare. The used a coupling and one of the stock brake lines (bent the line to fit) to extend it to the new brake valve.

2. For the passenger-side front rigid brake line, it was sufficiently long, and I "re-worked" the line to the new brake valve.

3. For the drivers-side front, I had to make up a new line to extend to the new brake valve. The run is significantly longer.

Working with the brake lines gave me a reason to buy a flaring tool!

Here's the new drivers-side front brake line.

[Chris 69]

Here's the new MP booster plumbed and ready to go!

Note the brake valve location below the master cylinder.

Some massaging was required to MP's supplied brake lines from the master cylinder to the brake valve to avoid hitting the inner fender. Not a major issue.

[Chris 69]

Next it was time to finish-up the front disc brakes.

Here's the "completed" photos. Driver's side:

-With wheel off.
-With wheel on.
-From underneath car.

[Chris 69]

Passenger side.

[Chris 69]

Car is now back on all 4's for the first time in 3 weeks!

[Chris 69]

Tomorrow hopefully I'll get a chance to install the new E-brake cable.

Also per coordination with the engine shop, they are boring the 440 this weekend to 0.030 over, and it should be ready to be picked-up in a couple of weeks!

[69white hat]

Can I ask you, Did the rear disc conversion push the wheels out any before you put on the spacers? I ask because my wheels fit perfectly and if the disc conversion pushed them out towrd the fender a half inch, I may get some rub.   

[fy469rtse]

Looks great Chris , those two bolts to booster, if you ever have to do them again, take your cluster out lots of long extensions , it's the easiest way ,

[Chris 69]

Can I ask you, Did the rear disc conversion push the wheels out any before you put on the spacers? I ask because my wheels fit perfectly and if the disc conversion pushed them out towrd the fender a half inch, I may get some rub.   

Yes, the rear disc conversion pushed the wheels out. The rears are Master Power Brakes Pro Driver Series.

For the part that bolts to the axle, the thickness is as follows:

Stock Drums: 0.125"
MP Discs: 0.250"

So without the spacer, the disc conversion pushed the wheels out 0.125".

Here's a reference photo of the rear wheel with the disc brake installed. This has a 15x8 wheel, 4" backspacing, 0.310" spacer, and P275/60R15 tires.

I will be swapping the 0.310" spacer for a 0.375"

[Chris 69]

Looks great Chris , those two bolts to booster, if you ever have to do them again, take your cluster out lots of long extensions , it's the easiest way ,

Thank you fy469rtse! This has been a fun project so far. Can't wait to get the 440!

Removing the cluster makes alot of sense. I'll definitely be doing that next time as it was very challenging/frustrating accessing those top two nuts from under the dash. When swapping the booster a year ago, I noticed that whoever installed the "failed" booster didn't bother to install the top drivers-side nut, I'm guessing due to the difficult access from underneath.

[69white hat]

Thank you very much. That's exactly what I needed to know!!   

[Chris 69]

Oops, let me clarify my statement 69white hat.

I should have said the MP rotor is 0.250" thick and the stock drum is 0.125" thick. This is measured where the MP rotor and stock drum slide over the wheel studs onto the axle. Therefore, the MP rear discs push the wheels out 0.125" further, on each side, than the stock drums. Hopefully this makes sense.

[69white hat]

of course

[timmycharger]

  Looking Great!

[jfreakofkorn]

  nice progress

[Chris 69]

nice progress

Thanks haven't posted in a couple of weeks since progress has slowed a little as I'm waiting for the motor.

Pretty much over the last few weeks the only work on the car has been to complete the emergency brake cable installation and installation of a braided stainless steel brake line from the rigid frame-mounted line to the rear axle.

I did stop by the motor shop to drop of parts earlier this week. Here some photos:

1. Block mounted, ready for assembly.
2. Forged steel crank.

[Chris 69]

Here's the "cleaned-up" heads off my 383, which will be used on the 440.

[Chris 69]

Motor is supposed to be ready in 2 weeks. I'll be posting photos when it's done, and also during the motor/4-speed installation.

[Chris 69]

It's been a while since this thread has been updated. Not much has happend since I'm still waiting for the 440 to be completed. I'm scheduled to pick the 440 up from the engine shop next Tuesday!!! Then next weekend will be installation of the motor and 4-speed, with pictures to follow of course.

However, Last week I received an order from US Car Tool for subframe connectors, torque boxes, lower radiator core stiffener support, and driveshaft loop. Yesterday and today was spent installing the lower radiator core stiffener support. See the following photos.

I'll install the remaining pieces after the motor and trans are installed.

[Chris 69]

Here's the valance prior to starting disassembly. I tried to remove as little as possible for this process, but ended up removing the valance, bumper, bumperettes, bumper extention brackets, and the bracket below the grille.

[Chris 69]

Next was removal of the grille bracket on the stock lower radiator support. This bracket was spot-welded on, so removal included drilling-out the spot welds.

Photos are of front and back of the bracket.

[Chris 69]

Here's photos showing the 5 spot weld locations and the removed bracket.