Falls on it's Face

[firefighter3931]

I realize now, if what I assumed above holds water (or fuel in this case ), is that a good diaphram doesn't allow the fuel to flow backwards through the pump.

Do you follow me?

Yep, i do follow and you are correct....there should be no drainback if the diaphram is intact. 

The junk they call gas these days does evaporate much quicker than the stuff we ran years ago..... so if it sits for awhile you might have to turn it over several revolutions to fill the bowls. 


Ron

[c00nhunterjoe]

Ron, i dont understand all the issues with people's cars not starting after sitting a few days. I run a 4779 holley and a stock replacement mechanical fuel pump. Mine can sit for months and kick right off after a couple pumps. I havnt run my car since..... november i think, i will go out tomorrow and see how it starts.

[BLUE68RT4ME]

Yeah Ron, it didn't matter if it sat 3-4 days or a month, the carb would be bone dry and I would have to turn what it over for about 10-15 seconds before there was fuel there.  I say 10-15 seconds, when you're turning an engine over and over again it seems like forever so I'm trying to be realistic.  The diaphragm going bad explains a ton, especially the gas in the oil... which is what made me believe it was loading up (flooding) before, instead of being too lean.

I'm curious if the cause is really the 93 octane (10% ethanol) or the Blue Lightning 110 fuel I was mixing with it occasionally.  It didn't have problems until last summer and I started mixing it last summer.  The summer before was solely 93 octane.  Or, maybe it was indeed just the ethanol taking its toll.  I can't believe that the diaphragm wouldn't be made to address ethanol though.

Anyway, it's water under the bridge now.  I'll order a new one, plus the pressure guage, drop my oil, fix my u-joint, and try to get time to replace my bearing and seals before the cluster comes back and then I'll let you all know what happens.

Thanks!   

[BLUE68RT4ME]

Well, I bought the Carter pump along with a new set of lines to go with it.  I went with -6 AN from the end of the fuel line through the pump and up to the carb.  I replaced that barb fitted chrome dual inlet fuel rail for the double pumper and went with the black AN fittings there too.  SS braided throughout and I also added a pressure gauge at the tee in the dual inlet set up.

I also moved the fuel filter up top, right at the tee, so it's easily accessible.  The big change is that I'm reversing the supply side to the back of the motor.  With the alternator, heater hoses, and the distributor all right there, as well as the coil, it's a mess up front.  I am going to route it back along the frame rail then up and along the firewall to make it nice and easy.  I am also going to buy 1" aluminum reflective/insulating sleeves to put around the line so that it doesn't get so hot, especially running past the exhaust twice.

Still waiting on my cluster to get back from Martinsville so I'm not going to have it running for a couple weeks yet but I've got most of that together.  Any thoughts on what I've done?  Have I missed something that will cause a problem with this?

I'll get pics up once I get it all done.   

Mark

[Dino]

If you bolt together the red and black ammeter wires, you can start the car without issues.

Most times a car won't start right away is because all the fuel boiled out of the bowl.  If there is still fuel in the bowl then the car should fire up right away.  Ever since I fixed my heat soak issues, the car fires right up every time.