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A few questions I need answered please

Started by ajay716, March 29, 2014, 07:34:54 PM

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ajay716

hey guys, been awhile since i posted. things have been going well now that the weather is getting better here in buffalo, but i've ran into a problem. I changed the wheel bearings(front outer) and replaced rotors, pads, brake shoes for the rear and accompanying hardware. I know i should have replaced the inner bearings as well. After i changed everything, when i took the car for a short drive the brakes would go to the floor and stop then. I bled the brakes(even though i didnt do anything to obtain air in the system) just in case, and i rechecked every wheel to make sure everything was in order. I then noticed both front wheels were outward towards the 12 oclock position and that it would wobble in and out indicating bad bearings. I ended up misreading the shop manual severely overtorquing the front outer bearings. Could this and the fact that the wheel is so loose from 12 to 6 cause the piston to have excessive pedal travel? because they were working fine before that. I also found out i have about a 2 inch crack in the control arm from the space where the front shock is down the middle, can that be welded safely? i can take pics. Per the advice of Cooter and the fact that i came across one locally and I had some extra cash, i just picked up an 8 3/4 rear end with the 742 case, non-sure grip with 2.93  for 300  :shruggy: thats the best i can do as mopar parts never come up around here, was that decent? i plan on rebuilding the rear end putting 3.55 or 3.73's in it. can someone give me advice as to what to replace in the rear end specifically? and also if there is a readup on specifically rebuilding it besides the one in mopar muscle that would be great, pics soon after i get these brakes working good. thanks guys!  :cheers:
1973 Charger SE Brougham Numbers Matching
400 C.i.
46k

cudaken

I then noticed both front wheels were outward towards the 12 oclock position

To me 12 O Clock is straight up?  :shruggy:
I am back

ajay716

ill have to take some pictures but i mean the wheel is pushed out a little at the 12 oclock and in a little at the 6 kinda like this \ on passenger and / on driver, but not that bad. can that cause the pedal to go to the floor because theres so much play? and anything on the other ?s?
1973 Charger SE Brougham Numbers Matching
400 C.i.
46k

John_Kunkel

He's trying to say there's too much positive camber. The wobble could be worn ball joints/bushings. Neither should affect the brake function but the low pedal could be due to loose adjustment of the rear drum shoes.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

cudaken

Quote from: John_Kunkel on March 30, 2014, 04:10:53 PM
He's trying to say there's too much positive camber. The wobble could be worn ball joints/bushings. Neither should affect the brake function but the low pedal could be due to loose adjustment of the rear drum shoes.

Yep, try tightening up the rear brakes.

A Jay, have you moved the Charger after the work you did? Mine will do the same thing when first lowered to the ground. Tires will not slide sideways when not moving.

Cuda Ken
I am back

ajay716

Yes that pic is a perfect example thank you. It doesn't seem as if the ball joints or tie rots are too shot, although I will take a look and report back. One other reason I say this is because all I changed was the bearings and the brakes, and I know I crushed them, I haven't driven the car really, and , the camber and the soft pedal were not there before the job. I also checked all brakes just to make sure. But I'm changing the bearings tomorrow and I will check everything out take pics and report back. I was just wondering if bearings could cause the low pedal because I did lots of research to and found a couple ppl that that was the problem. But anyway
Any how tos on rebuilding the rear and if the crack in the control ark is weld able? Like I said I'll get back to you guys tomorrow after rechecking everything, thanks
1973 Charger SE Brougham Numbers Matching
400 C.i.
46k

c00nhunterjoe

Dont take this wrong, but it really sounds like you need to find a local friend that is good with mechanics to help you work on your car.

nvrbdn

if the bushings and ball joints are all good,the top bolts on your upper control arms adjust the camber.
70 Dodge Charger 500
70 Duster (Moulin Rouge)
73 Challenger
50 Dodge Pilot House