wiring diagram

[polywideblock]

buying a power master 75 amp replacement alternator  for the dodge had a very clear wiring diagram for "parallel wiring " from here but i'v lost it and tried search but can't find the one I'm looking for   could someone please post it again  ? do I need to change voltage regulator if so where to get one that don't crap itself within weeks of being put in ( have read of problems with all the ones off ebay   ) also going with the 8 gauge wire with fusible link from output to starter solenoid positive stud , if I do this and charge is now going to battery instead of through amp gauge(hope i'v got this concept right ,electrics aren't my thing   ) do I still need to bypass the amp gauge to stop the fire under the dash  thing ?  they also offer a one wire version for 15 bucks more is this a better deal ? what do I have to do to fit a  one wire alternator  ? anything i'v missed ? would hate for it to burn to the ground because of  modifications I'd done

[tan top]

is it this one  , By Nacho  

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0.html

[polywideblock]

that's the one     


                                      one question  down three to go

[Dino]

I don't know much about one wire alternators.  I use a dual field with external regulator.  I got this one:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-4529794/overview/

When you run a power wire from alt to starter relay then you take the majority of the load off the ammeter, effectively reducing the risk of accidents.  If the gauge and connections are good then you can keep it as is but the gauge will not read right so you may as well disconnect it altogether or replace it with a voltmeter.

I still need to draw my electrical schematic to post here so people can adapt it to their own cars but I kept changing stuff so it hasn't happened yet.   

I am running an 80 amp fuse on the charging side and a 50 amp fuse going into the cabin.

[Pete in NH]

Hi,

If you use the 75 amp Power Master that requires an external regulator, I would use the Mopar part Dino referenced. In my experience they are more reliable than aftermarket types. If you use the one wire Power Master, the regulator is built in and you will not need an external regulator.

If you run the alternator output to the starter relay battery stud you are essentially bypassing the ammeter and it will no longer read correctly. As Dino suggests you might as well go to a voltmeter at this point. His conversion information in the section looks very nice. If you run the alternator output to the starter relay stud, I would totally disconnect the ammeter wiring through the bulk head connector pins and eliminate that trouble area. Just run a piece of #8 wire from the relay battery stud through a grommeted hole in the firewall to the black wire on the back of the ammeter through a 50 amp Maxi-Fuse. If you convert the ammeter to a voltmeter use a ring terminal on the new wire and a screw, nut and lockwasher to make the new connection and insulate well with shrink tubing or tape.

[Nacho-RT74]

with 75 amps alt you won't need anything else but the parallel wires. Trust me, no need to bypass the ammeter, jump it out or run the wire to starter relay.

as I said TRUST ME. Even adding some extra accesories you'll be fine. Just need to install everything clean and tight.

Try it... and if you notice I'm wrong, you can allways run the wire to starter relay and bypass ammeter as everybody does after try what I post there

[Pete in NH]

I forgot to add that the Mopar regulator will only work with alternators having two field terminals, not the single field terminal alternators on 69 and earlier cars.