Enclosed car trailers...Educate me.

[Daytona R/T SE]

I'd like to buy an enclosed car trailer.

Here's my thoughts so far:

I can store one of my cars in it to open up some space in my garage.

It beats building another garage, it's movable, and they can't tax it.

If I ever move out of this God forsaken place I can take it with me AND use it to move all my stuff.

If I ever get my Daytona done I can haul it cross country and protect it from hotel parking lot idiots at night.

I'm thinking at least 24-26 feet long, maybe even 28.

I'd like the extra room to haul my motorcycle crossways in front of the car.

Electric brakes on all four wheels.

10,000 lbs or higher gross weight.

Electric winch mounted in the center of the floor in the front.

Load distribution/torsion bar looking hitch.

Finished floor that can be cleaned-no bare wood floor.

Possibly an escape door.

NO CABINETS ! ! !  

We ain't baking cookies, here.  


Thoughts ?

Comments ?

Brands to consider ?

Brands to avoid ?

Insults ?



Comments similar to and including ones like this:

"Just drive it you effing pussy"

"I drive mine every day up hill both ways through the swamp."

"It's JUST a car"


Will be given this:

[Troy]

For a Daytona you probably want 24' minimum. I had a 22' enclosed a while back and there wasn't a ton of room to move around a Charger. If you want a bike in front of it 26' might still be tight! You don't want the back bumper of the car right at the rear door. Two axle trailers will likely be 10,000 pounds gross. Figure the trailer will eat up 3,500 of that. Winch, tools, tie downs, spare tires and any electric accessories on top. I believe you can buy heavier duty axles - hopefully from whoever builds the trailer. I like V nose trailers. They cost a little more usually but they give you room for the winch inside and help a little with fuel mileage. Brakes on all axles are generally implied but check any way! Definitely get an escape door. Some trailers sit low but that means the fenders are higher and you can't open the car door! Either add some wood block so the car wheels are elevated or by a trailer with the right clearance. That escape door isn't worth much if you're crawling out the window. Some cabinets are handy - or at least a bucket or something to put tie down straps and cleaning supplies in while the car is out and about. I like some electric outlets as well. Weight distributing hitch is practically required unless you're towing with a long bed diesel. It's super easy for a long, heavy trailer to "wag the dog".

I don't have recommendations on a brand. I do love my Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller and "Equal-i-zer" hitch.
http://www.equalizerhitch.com/

In my case it was easier to get a bigger garage than store an enclosed trailer. I still have my open trailer. Storing things in the trailer means you can never use it for the other cars without unloading. It becomes a royal pain and if you leave a car in there so long that it has starting issues then you'll really appreciate a little extra room in front!

Troy

[Daytona R/T SE]

Good stuff, Troy.

When we hauled the Daytona to the body shop, we had it in a 24' trailer, it was very tight, because the first three feet of trailer was all cabinets. 

I'm thinking some sort of latching overhead storage bin in front to hold small things, cleaning supplies, etc. without taking up any floor space.

For the bigger stuff, tools, tires, etc. there's this truck out front with an eight foot bed on it...

As far as another garage, I've got a big enough yard to park a trailer in, but building another garage would suck up a lot of real estate.

That's fine with me...

Less mowing...

But.

We're thinking of moving in a few years, and houses with ten garage stalls and ZERO yard are a tough sell...



OK, Guys...

MORE INPUT !

[Tilar]

As far as another garage, I've got a big enough yard to park a trailer in, but building another garage would suck up a lot of real estate.

That's fine with me...

Less mowing...

But.

We're thinking of moving in a few years, and houses with ten garage stalls and ZERO yard are a tough sell...



OK, Guys...

MORE INPUT !

You just paid your castle off and now you're thinking you want to move? You bump your head on something?    Live your life out and let the kids worry about selling it.   

Ok so maybe this isn't the type of input you're looking for, but it is the first "input" that came to mind.   

[Cooter]

When storing a car for extended periods of time, MUST MOVE TRAILER FROM TIME TO TIME.
tires that have busted the belts from sitting for 8 months, tend to tear the hell outta one of these when they come apart.

Ask me how I know.....

[bill440rt]

When storing a car for extended periods of time, MUST MOVE TRAILER FROM TIME TO TIME.

That was the first thing I thought of when reading this.
Enclosed trailers are designed for car transport, not for vehicle storage. Tires can fail early, bearing fatigue, etc. I store stuff in mine in the off season (outdoor patio furniture, for example), but not a car.

Get the widest one you can, these cars are wide & need the extra room on the sides.
Most manufacturer's websites give inside dimensions, axle placement, etc. Do a mock layout on the garage floor with your car with masking tape, string, etc. See how far away from the front & rear walls you want it, where the car will sit over the axles, etc. Most manufacturer's will place the driver's side escape door anywhere you want it, so you can measure where you need this door to be. GET ONE! It is so much easier to get out of the car.

I have a Wells Cargo, bought it in '99. Friends that have also used my trailer say it's balanced very well & pulls nicely for them, too. Plan before you buy a trailer to suit your car.
Mine also has a fiberglass "bubble" up front, really helps with aerodynamics and the trailer tracks nicely. No cabinets either, but I was thinking of putting something overhead in the hollow space that is in the 'glass bubble inside the trailer.
Finished floors are nice too, I laid diamond plate strips where the tires sit on the back door/ramp so it is not so slippery coming in.

[Daytona R/T SE]

[/quote]

You just paid your castle off and now you're thinking you want to move? You bump your head on something?    Live your life out and let the kids worry about selling it.  

Ok so maybe this isn't the type of input you're looking for, but it is the first "input" that came to mind.  
[/quote]





Downsizing.

When we move it will be to a much smaller, cheaper place.

We're looking into an area about 1800 miles away from corrupt, overtaxed Illinois.

The proceeds from the sale of the current palatial estate will easily cover the cost of the "cabin" I have in mind.

No more mortgages for me.

We will NOT be taking the current fleet of ten cars, two pickup trucks and a Harley with us.

The Harley I'll keep, along with one of the trucks and a couple of my cars, plus the bride's ride.

That's it.

Kids ?

No kids.

I've successfully avoided procreation.

The Ol' lady is fixed, and unless I start getting some young stray real soon...

I'm the end of the line.

[Daytona R/T SE]

I keep my open trailer up on jacks when not in use, and I figured on looking into a set of those large RV scissor jacks to put under the enclosed trailer when it's parked for an extended period of time.

Should take some of the strain off the tires and axles.




MORE INPUT ! 

[Steve P.]

I agree with all or at least most of the above answers. Only I will tell you that you will never buy a big enough trailer... For what you described I would say minimum of 28' and for sure a V-nose. Anything to brake that huge flat wall is a huge plus going down the highway.

I really like the basements in many trailers, but you have to design them into the right spot. IE, it doesn't do you any good if you have a tool box or the car covering it.

I went down this road with a buddy not too long ago. We parked his car in his garage and used tape on the floor to mark out where everything he wanted inside to go. It worked like a charm. He has mostly B-bodies, but does have a c that he wanted to be able to fit in if need be. V-nose got the tool box. That left room for a small air compressor locked to the wall across from the box. This still gave him room to lock down the car with some space to move.

After figuring our what he wanted and calling around he thought he'd wait till race season was over and the new trailers were coming out. Then one day a buddy of his tells him about a trailer he saw for sale and he bought it for 5 grand. Way cheaper than he was being quoted and it already had e-track on the floor and both walls. I think it is a Champion or maybe a Haulmark.

Sadly, this buddy died a month ago.

[bill440rt]

I keep my open trailer up on jacks when not in use, and I figured on looking into a set of those large RV scissor jacks to put under the enclosed trailer when it's parked for an extended period of time.

Should take some of the strain off the tires and axles.

MORE INPUT !  

When not in use I crank up the nose of the trailer. There are also stabilizers in the back that get lowered, such as when loading/unloading a car. With the front raised up and the supports extended in the back, you can almost raise the tires off the ground. You can at least take a lot of weight off of them.
I still wouldn't use it as another garage for a car.

Also, get some tire covers for when not in use. It will prevent the tires from prematurely dry rotting.

Another feature that can be overlooked: an alarm system. Many car alarms now have remotes that will alert you if your alarm is going off. They can be easily installed in a trailer for added peace of mind.

Here's a link to Wells' website that shows the optional nose cone (there's a link in the option list):
http://wellscargo.com/wellscargo-trailers/auto-trailers/autowagon/options/

[Steve P.]

Jacking the trailer up so the tires are not touching the ground is a great idea. Saves tires and springs.

I don't see any problem with storing a car inside a trailer for long periods of time myself. I know a few who do just that including Firefighter Ron.

Most enclosed trailers build for hauling cars have 3/4" plywood decks and most I have seen use a 16" center.

Having a large exit door that allows you to open the drivers door and get completely out is very nice. Another door at the front right makes locking down the front end easy and keeps you from having to slide by the car..

If you really want to do it right, buy a carport to park it under to keep it out of the sun and give the roof more long lasting protection...

A buddy back home has a really long, (Over 30 feet), Wells Cargo. He has had it more than 30 years and it is still in pretty good shape.. A bit of maintenance goes a LONG WAY!! Since he quit racing about 15 years ago, he has been storing his 4-wheelers in it and his Harley and Triumph motorcycles. 

[69 OUR/TEA]

Many opinions will be posted,size,GVW,brand,etc.I bought mine for an extra garage space also,as well as hauling cars to wherever.I'm the type that wants brand new,never used,and any treatment abuse per say was done by me.Did not want to break the bank,did'nt need the highest dollar,best of everything,as it is not used every weekend for trailoring.I did however want a few specific things: 24',V nose(for helping split the air,and mount the winch tightly in there),and 10,000lb GVW so all 4 corners have 12'' brakes,but most of all the drivers side entry/escape door.Once you have that,you'd never want one without.It is awesome,drive your car right in ,open the door and get out !!!..My truck is a 04 Hemi QD Ram,so I did put on the weight distribution hitch and more importantly a sway bar control.
Now for the brand I bought,a good friend who buys a lot of trailor equipment hooked me up with a guy he does a lot of business with,he carries American Hauler.I bought a new 2010 24',10k lb,escape door,charcoal grey which matched my truck great for $6,800 .It has reg leaf spring suspension,not torsion bar,that would have been more $$$$.Took his advice,as again,I don't use it a lot,and was not worth the extra.I can say this who think it is a "must have",I trailored plenty of times with my 1/2 ton Ram,everything was fine,did'nt notice anything terrible about having leafs instead of torsion,(except the gas milage on the truck doing so"!!!!!!! LOL.

I store a car in mine also(unrestored car,don't think I'd keep a nice one in it for storage),as well as my lawn tractor,tires,etc.So far,no leaks from the roof(it has a one piece aluminum skin that survived all the heavy snows we had up here in Ct these past 2 winters).
Anyway,check out that brand,it might suit you fine,and won't break the bank so you can have a new one.

[69 OUR/TEA]

In this thread,there are pics of mine.Does'nt have a finished floor like you say you'd want.You can always do yourself .


http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,71314.0.html

[Steve P.]

Also different trailer builders have different depth "V"s. Some are shallow. Just a foot or two. Some are much deeper. From what I read about millage with an enclosed trailer it is more important to get the wind cut and over the top of the trailer. The picture they had to explain looked sort of like a V PLOW. Longer at the base. V shaped and about 2/3rds of the way up it rolled into a flat curving surface that went into the top.  I have been looking for that article, but am not finding it now..

I want to say my buddies trailer had a 4' V. I towed it to his place for him as his diesels was apart when he bought it. I only had a 2 5/16 ball. No sway control or anything else, but it was completely empty and it towed really well. From where it was then to his house was about 60 miles. It was a really nice day, so I can't tell you about pulling it in high winds. Also I was on windy, curvey roads, but little traffic and virtually no wind. I thought it towed great!!

His does have Dexter torsion axles. It's the only trailer I have pulled with them, but unloaded I can't say it was better or worse.. I do love the idea and the lack of squeaking!!

[stripedelete]

I just had a similar conversation with my wife.

My approach is to store all less/seldom used tools,  equipement, material, etc, in the trailer and free up a bay in the garage.   

But, I have no desire to transport cars. 

[bill440rt]

Here's a shot of my Wells with the nose cone. The cone pretty much diverts the air up & over. Sits very level. This is with a weight distribution hitch also.

[Steve P.]

That's a sweet rig, Bill.. 

[NHCharger]

I have a 24' Haulmark, 10k lbs. gross. Would definately not go any smaller. As mentioned above spend the extra on a escape door so your not climbing in and out the driver's window (really suxs). I bought mine used but am going to look into having one installed. One of those weight distributing hitches is also a must.

[Aero426]

10,000 lbs or higher gross weight.

Trailer gross vehicle weight you will want to keep under 10,000 lbs.   That is the point where you start getting into being required to have a commercial license.    A lot of trailers you will see rated at 9900 ibs for this reason.   They will still have the 5200 ib rated axles that you want.

[Cooter]

10,000 lbs or higher gross weight.

Trailer gross vehicle weight you will want to keep under 10,000 lbs.   That is the point where you start getting into being required to have a commercial license.    A lot of trailers you will see rated at 9900 ibs for this reason.   They will still have the 5200 ib rated axles that you want.

I knew there was a cut off, just didn't know where.

[Aero426]

24' for a Daytona by itself is perfect.   I have no cabinets and use the space in front for luggage and other light gear.   I would also say go a little longer if you want the motorcycle in there. 

Yes, on the escape door.   You may need to have the tires elevated slightly to clear the bottom of the escape door.   I know guys with elevated aluminum treadways inside the trailer. 

[Daytona R/T SE]

Very good input, everyone.

Keep it coming.

I do have a question.

On every enclosed trailer I see the entry door on the passenger side is located 4-6 feet rearward of the front edge of the trailer.

So that with a car loaded, you open the door and walk in, right into the side of the fender of the car.

I don't get it, the only thing I can figure is that this is to allow space for cabinets in the front.

I just don't get the whole cabinet thing.

I can understand some latchable small storage bins up high, but CABINETS?

Why not a sink, dishwasher and an easy bake oven, too ?  

Can the trailer be ordered with side entry door mounted all the way at the front of the side of the trailer ?

That would make better sense to me, and I could load/unload my motorcycle from the side without moving the car.

[Steve P.]

Yes, I have also seen many cabinets in the front. But also have seen many more tool boxes along the front wall.

One reason for the door being held back I'm sure is for those who want a tool box or cabinets on the front wall, but also I think it is a matter of structural strength for the leading corner and also the door.

I think it really depends on how it is build and with what materials. There use to be a trailer builder close by here. I stopped in there a few times for ideas and prices. They built one seriously strong trailer. All walls and roof were made with box aluminum and all fully welded. They gave you a choice on where you wanted your doors and how many. Hell, they would build you anything you could dream up! I was very impressed with all of their trailers, but not really the mess they made building them.. They undercoated the entire trailers bottom. Parts of it while it was being built and then the entire bottom when it was complete. The floor in the area they did this was about 6" think with undercoating. 

Anyway, if I had the money I would have had them build me a 28 footer. Recently I was in that industrial park and saw that they were gone. No idea what happened to them. But I believe their prices were so high that people went for the cheaper to buy and cheaper built trailers..

You may also want to look at the front/pass/door to be a ramp door like the back since you want to put your bike in the front. I have seen many ramp doors on the right side of the "V" nose, but I think you'd  lose available space to park a large bike with that.

[Daytona R/T SE]

You may also want to look at the front/pass/door to be a ramp door like the back since you want to put your bike in the front. I have seen many ramp doors on the right side of the "V" nose, but I think you'd  lose available space to park a large bike with that.

The motorcycle thing would only be once or twice a year, so I think I would just go with those folding aluminum motorcycle ramps like they make to put a bike in the bed of a pickup.

I'd just store the ramps in the back of my truck. 

[Steve P.]

After watching some "FAILS" on youtube with those ramps, I don't think I would use them for a motorcycle  going through a small door. If you ride it up and are off center and hit the wall, you will have nothing to put your feet down on to save you and the bike!! Maybe going out, but you couldn't "HOLD enough of MY BEER" to get me to ride up!!  Maybe a minibike!!  lol... A full ramp, yes. Not one of those skinny fold up things.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z2EfBPgwi8E