Steel Crank or Cast

[westcoastdodge]

hey guys,currently bidding on this motor and trans,would this be a steel crank motor or cast??
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191099100575?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1426.l2649

[RallyeMike]

It looks to have a forged crank harmonic balancer on it. Maybe you could have the seller send a better picture?

By the way, all cranks are steel. Some forged. Some cast.

[westcoastdodge]

  thanks mike

[BSB67]

It looks to have a forged crank harmonic balancer on it. Maybe you could have the seller send a better picture?

By the way, all cranks are steel. Some forged. Some cast.

The cast cranks are not steel, they are iron

[westcoastdodge]

yep cast iron,thats what i thought,cheers BSB67

[Cooter]

Some claim cast cranks will "flex" before they will break like a forged unit will, but I don't buy it. Anything over 500 hp, I prefer a steel crank if for nothing more than running a four speed is easier.

[cudaken]

I have read they are good for 550 HP.

[1974dodgecharger]

Some claim cast cranks will "flex" before they will break like a forged unitb will, but I don't buy it. Anything over 500 hp, I prefer a steel crank if for nothing more than running a four speed is easier.

Thats how mine was built with a steel crank we opted for it due to the 4 speed lol...though im not over 500HP 

[Challenger340]

Cooter is right  
As far as I know... CAST Cranks do not "flex", or only minimally if at all, and they BREAK when stressed too far
whereas,
a stock 1053 Forged Steel Crank can winde and un-winde down it's length as much as 25* being almost a spring steel, and far easier on the 2 Bolt #4 Main Cap walk problem with B/RB Mopars for that reason.
That's the reason we always used stock 440 Forgings for 451/472 builds as opposed to BUYING a 4340 crank.... cheaper AND helps save the #4 Main close to or above 600hp on stock blocks.

That's also why 4340 Cranks used to always be referred to as "NON-Twist" in the same sentence back in the Day ? as in a "4340 non-twist Crank",
nowadays,
it's just 4340 Crank.

[cdr]

twisted & non twisted is how the are manufactured. 

TWIST OR NONTWIST

Forged crankshafts can be made using either twist or nontwist approaches. Since forging requires the use of a die, it's obvious that the die consists of two sections. A twist-forged crankshaft uses a die that places two rod throws to one side and two throws to the opposite side (180 degrees apart). This makes it easier to remove the forging from the die.

Once out of the die, the crankshaft is then literally twisted (while hot and formable) to obtain the correct pin geometry. However, in doing so, the grain structure of the steel is interrupted, which creates potential weak spots and stress risers. A nontwist crankshaft is forged in exactly the final shape, but involves a die that is much more complex (in order to make it separable). That's one of the reasons a nontwist forging is more expensive than a twist forging. All of the crank manufacturers we spoke with produce nontwist forgings.
- See more at: http://www.precisionenginetech.com/tech-explained/2009/06/02/forged-crankshaft-tech-part-2/#sthash.Il5NsXgp.dpuf

[Challenger340]

twisted & non twisted is how the are manufactured.  

TWIST OR NONTWIST

Forged crankshafts can be made using either twist or nontwist approaches. Since forging requires the use of a die, it's obvious that the die consists of two sections. A twist-forged crankshaft uses a die that places two rod throws to one side and two throws to the opposite side (180 degrees apart). This makes it easier to remove the forging from the die.

Once out of the die, the crankshaft is then literally twisted (while hot and formable) to obtain the correct pin geometry. However, in doing so, the grain structure of the steel is interrupted, which creates potential weak spots and stress risers. A nontwist crankshaft is forged in exactly the final shape, but involves a die that is much more complex (in order to make it separable). That's one of the reasons a nontwist forging is more expensive than a twist forging. All of the crank manufacturers we spoke with produce nontwist forgings.
- See more at: http://www.precisionenginetech.com/tech-explained/2009/06/02/forged-crankshaft-tech-part-2/#sthash.Il5NsXgp.dpuf

Yep, you are exactly right.
In technical terms TWIST or NON-TWIST did in fact refer to the manufacturing process, one being forged a couple of times and TWISTED to shape, the other being a single Forging with all four formed at once... NON-TWIST.
But far more to the story than just the different forging processes, in the Alloys of 1053 and 4340 for example, not just in tensile strengths to shear point of the steels, but in their ability to "bend", or densities to transfer harmonics, hardness, yada, yada.
Anybody who has tried DRILLING a 4340 Crank compared to a 1053 can tell you... LOOK at what comes off ? The 4340 "Flakes off in chips" while the 1053 stuff does the normal sort of "windings".

Long story short,
and without getting really technical and into plasticity, malleability, ductility, of the various alloys.... just my  as well
if,
you wanna save your #4 main cap when getting on the edge powerwise with a stock 2 bolt main B/RB Mopar Block ?
try a stock 1053 Crank for awhile.... in place of that 4340 piece.

We discovered it by accident.
Freshen B Blocks @ 700-750hp after 300 runs... #4 Cap had mountain ranges with the 4340 Cranks, and after 3-4 Seasons we would re-Block
all the while...
The 1053 Crank stuff at the same power & intervals, was showing little to no #4 Cap walk ? But the Cranks themselves would start cracks on the rolled filets after 3-4 seasons ? which being cheap like borsche because nobody wanted them was still easier to grind one up and balance, than re-Block ?
Some good reading over here as well
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0710phr_crankshaft_tech/

[westcoastdodge]

wow interresting info as always guys...

[westcoastdodge]

well just won it at 1220 pounds sterling any tuning info guys