Doin' it to it.

[twodko]

I received my Tax refund this week. I printed out the website kit sheet for the MPBrake disk conversion I want and the PST
front bushing kit I've chosen as well. Took them down to my main wrench bending shop and asked them to look the
kits over. I asked if they could get them cheaper than I could and finally the labor cost to get the work done.
I've been putting these upgrades off a long time so instead of banking the money I'm taking on this expense.

I like Top Ramen and oatmeal.

One question: Polygraphite or OEM rubber bushings?

[Cooter]

I know the polyurethane bushings make noise if not greased regular.

[twodko]

I remember hearing something negative about them but couldn't recall what it was so thank you for the heads up on that. Also something about no "give or cushion" using them as compared to OEM rubber bushings. 

Thanks Cooterman

[Mike DC]

Poly vs rubber bushings is one of those never-ending debates with fans on both sides.


The gripes against rubber are obvious.  Feels mushier and it biodegrades.  

Poly tends to have a sqeaking problem.  (Some would disagree.  But I have yet to see a car totally beat the problem AND see lots of real world street miles.)  

Poly also transmits more vibration/harshness to the metal parts of the suspension, which has long term metal-fatigue implications.  There are a few spots on the metal parts which could use reinforcing after 45 years even just wearing rubber parts.  


Me personally, I am a fan of using a mix of poly and rubber.  At the very least I would vote to keep the LCA/K-frame bushings rubber.  Check the LCA mounting tubes in the K-frame for cracking before you put everything back together, as the tubes tend to tear out of the walls of the K-frame over time.  In fact it doesn't hurt to reinforce the area with some heavy metal washers welded onto the ends of the mounting tubes & the walls of the K.

As for the tightness of Poly, keep in mind that a set of decades-old rubber bushings does not give you a fair idea of how tight a new set of rubber ones would be.  And most of the steering slop has more to do with other parts of the system.  Everything from the steering box itself, to the caster angle in the suspension, to the K-frame's steering box mounts, etc.  You can make the steering tighter without using poly if you address the other issues.

[twodko]

That was very helpful Mike, thank you.

The plan right now is to wait until they begin the disk brake conversion and see what they find
as the work progresses.

I already have fairly tight steering with a new FirmFeel II box and front sway bar.

[johnnycharger]

I have used poly on my jeeps but not cars. On the jeeps they have worked excellent and I have never had a problem with squeaking. I dont know about on cars.
I am know expert but I am pretty good as labor.  Give me a call if you want help with it!

[twodko]

Logan told you to sell me that song and dance didn't he? 

[sanders7981]

I ordered the poly kit, but they will send you rubber for the LCAs.  That was where the issues were found. Not enough give and too harsh.  Other then that, I found nothing negative it my research. Very easy to install too.

[johnnycharger]

Logan told you to sell me that song and dance didn't he? 

dang you figured it out!  Lol!
let me know!

[twodko]

The general thoughts on poly bushings here suggest that poly bushing for the UCA's and rubber
for the lowers.

[sanders7981]

The general thoughts on poly bushings here suggest that poly bushing for the UCA's and rubber
for the lowers.

Correct.  Do you have n aftermarket swaybar?  If not, make sure to request for original sway bar bushings.  PST done not make an aftermarket sway bar mount, but they sell poly bushings with a D-clamp.  Problem is that the d clamp requires a bracket to connect to the k member. 

[twodko]

Yep, got a brand new sway bar......well brand new in 2009.

Spoke with my main man wrench bender today and that was his plan all along.

No body tells me squat.

He told me I'll get the damage numbers tomorrow. Just gonna close my eyes, open
my wallet and wait for his "it's done" phone call.

Already laid in some extra stores of oatmeal, Mac & cheese and Top Ramen.

[sanders7981]

Yep, got a brand new sway bar......well brand new in 2009.

Spoke with my main man wrench bender today and that was his plan all along.

No body tells me squat.

He told me I'll get the damage numbers tomorrow. Just gonna close my eyes, open
my wallet and wait for his "it's done" phone call.

Already laid in some extra stores of oatmeal, Mac & cheese and Top Ramen.

Hahahah great minds think alike.  I ate ramen for a three months while I was deployed so I could save my per diem! 

[twodko]

Copy that.

When I was in the SecNav, couldn't even spell per diem!  

[HeavyFuel]

The general thoughts on poly bushings here suggest that poly bushing for the UCA's and rubber
for the lowers.

If you want to employ the offset UCA bushing to gain positive caster, you can forget about poly.....only thing available is the MOOG product (rubber).

At least that's what I've found out.


Well, that's not entirely true.  There is a Nolathane bushing in the land of the dishlickers that can be had.....but shipping them to the US of A is cost prohibitive.  

[twodko]

Thanks for that info. The front end, symmetry, caster etc are all fine but replacing what's needed now during
the disk brake conversion makes sense. Not the most frugal decision considering the cost of the brake conversion alone. 

[flyinlow]

My son and I used Moog rubber for the lowers on his '70. Used Moog rubber offsets for more caster on the UCA.  Found a lot of slop on the idler arm mount in the k frame welded a heavy custom fit washer to eliminate most of the slop. I think you mentioned elsewhere you had a Stage 2 box, as does my son Tom. New tie rods , ball joints and a good align made a much nicer to drive ride.