NO POWER (PROLLY THE MOST COMMON TOPIC)

[MAD]

Hey Guys, I figured i would start a seperate thread to my issue to not jump in on others with this issue.
ISSUE: NO POWER TO INTERIOR ANYTHING.

-Have 12.7v at battery
-Have 12.7v at Starter Relay
-Have 12.7v at fusible link
-Have 12.7v inside car after bulkhead and up steering column etc.

Ive checked my neutral switch.
Ive Checked my grounds (BUT COULD BE MISSING SOME TO CHECK)
ive Jumped my ammeter.
I dont have a seat belt relay so i jumped it.

Questions:
-Where are all the important grounds located so i can check?
-My kickdown linkage is currently un hooked from the carb would this prevent me from going into park fully?
-My Horn/key buser Big fuse thingy sounds blown would this prevent me from getting power?

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Once i solve the problem i will update with pictures and information to help people with this same issue for future reference.

The day I turn the key and have power is the day i have a  

[A383Wing]

Do headlights work?
Does anything work with key on?
Does dome light work?
Does lighter work?
Do brake lights work?

[MAD]

Good question ill turn off the lights in my shop and check.
I started the car yesterday by jumping the starter relay with a screw driver just fine.

Its a 1974 Charger by the way.

-If i (dont) have headlights/taillights/dome etc what would be next to look for

-If i (do) have headlights/taillights/dome etc what would be next to look for.

Thanks

[moparguy01]

if nothing works, its probably your ammeter. If it does work, then keep going until you find something that doesn't work, and trace it backwards.

[MAD]

Neutral safety switch works.
It shows 12v to everything headlights work.

I can't get a reading from the yellow wire at the starter relay.
I don't have a Seat Belt interlock box on my firewall (Been Removed) so I just jumped the two yellow wires at the clip t, grounded the ground but the blue isn't going anywhere?

Could this be causing me not to get power to create the circuit to get power at ignition?

[MAD]

No interlock, just attached two yellow wires together but still no start. if i have a test light to this conection and put the key in start position should i get light?

[MAD]

Still no power. WHAT IS THE BLUE CONNECTOR FOR? i dont seem to see a interlock box under dash anywhere?

[MAD]

Found my interelock Box by glove box its ORANGE. Nacho any info on this?
Any info on my whole no power when turning the key dilemma?

any help would be great

[MAD]

Havnt got any advice yet so i started poking wires together tonight LOL, while under the dash my ammeter wires that were jumperd with a bold fell on my chrome trim on the center console.. as sparks were jumping i hoped out of the car to find my engine bay smoking.. ripped the ground wire off the battery and THANK GOD for the fusible link it blew before my whole system caught fire..

On another note i re-wired a new fusible link and with my good friend Jamies help we were able to trace the problem for no power to ignition start position.

Turns out my Interlock box in the engine bay was removed so i just jumperd the two yellow wires. We then jumperd the two Yellows + the blue from the same plug and CRANK we have ignition...

Although the ignition cranks in 2nd accesory not the crank position haha

So if anyone has a diagram of what positions control what on a 74 charger that would be greatly appreciated.

Or if anyone has answers as to why i have crank in 2nd accesory and not full start position?

[Nacho-RT74]

Orange box is Canadian... I can see you jumped the yellow wire together of the plug going to the interlock reset button. HOWEVER Canadian orange boxes doesn't require for that. These boxes got this jumper built inside ( Canadian cars didn't required to be interlocked by law, just USA cars by Federal law ). Mostly sure Canadian cars didn't got reset button either I guess just the plug hanging around maybe ? dunno if engine harness remain the same between USA and Canadian cars.

Still if Interlock control box is the Federal ones ( Blue for auto and White for manuals ) these has nothing to do with the rest of the system working, just cut off the power to crank the engine at yellow wire to starter relay. Rest of car should get the power normally. EVEN THE COIL... just no starter relay trigger.

the light blue loosen plug goes to steering coulumn turning switch.

As you can see on several diagrams around, the power to ignition key runs in RED but spliced from Black wire attached to ammeter. Ammeter should be conected to the rest of car get power from batt through it ( in this case, the jumper you made )

are you getting power at red wire to ign switch ?

then in RUN... are you getting power to Blue and black wires of same harness ? ( full 12 volts!! in START these could get 5 to 9 volts spliced from ballast resistor )

Then in START... are you getting power to brown and yellow wires of same ignition switch harness ? ( full 12 volts!!! in RUN could get 5 to 9 volts spliced from ballast resistor... but the yellow wire )

this can be a problem so easy like a bag ignition switch, or related wiring running up to bulkhead... even damaged ballast resistor or related wires.

a clue... if in RUN, brown wire doesn't get power even this wire is directly sourced by switch just in Start ( 5 to 9 volts ) you could get a problem on ballast resistor circuit. Same backwards, checking for full 12 volts on brown wire in START, but blue getting none

If you got headlights/parking/cluster, dome lights, brake lights, hazzards, glove box light, cigar lighter, you are getting power to the cab... Fuse box Batt side ( there is a prong there you can check )

same if you get Radio, Wipers, turning lights... but just in ACC or RUN position of ign switch ( or fuse box ACC side, you got a rpong there to check )

[A383Wing]

never got an answer to my questions above.....hard to give advice if you won't give info..figured you had is solved seeing as you went straight to yellow wire under the hood

now you got more problems than you had before....sounds like it's new harness time, or find someone that can either answer questions asked or help you use a test light

[Nacho-RT74]

BTW, no need to worry about the black and blue wires to the red reset button plug. ( in fact as stated, with Canadian box plugged, didn't even need to jump out the yellow wires )

[MAD]

Thanks Nacho for the great advice.

My plug to the reset box was taped to the wire harness so you are correct and my guess is we never even had interlock.

-Weird enough i dont get crank unless i jumper the two yellow wires + blue.

My guess is i shouldnt jump that at all try to figure out how to get power to crank in start position.

I will check tonight for power voltage in different stages of key positions and get back with some answers.

Thanks again.

[MAD]

I have power to RED up column.
In (RUN) position I have power to RED/BROWN/BLUE/BLACK
In (START) I have power to RED/BROWN/BLUE/BLACK but not YELLOW

When key is in (full start) RED power remains and BROWN BLUE BLACK turn off and (NO) power to YELLOW.

Is it possible my ignition switch is bad? Or just that my yellow wire needs the circuit finalized before getting power

(I DO HEAR A FAINT CLICK COMING FROM MY DISTRIBUTOR WHEN KEY IS ON FULL START POSITION?)

[Nacho-RT74]

black wire shouldn't get power in start, but yellow should

-Weird enough i dont get crank unless i jumper the two yellow wires + blue.

If you removed the orange box ( which is the "interlock control box, just not setabelt interlocked and just a buzzers control unit ) you won't have signal to starter relay, except jumping the yellow wires at reset plug, because the jumpining you are making, is built into the orange box. With orange box in place you don't need that jumper job.

about blue wire, that wire is HOT when in RUN. is part of the RUN circuit coming from ign switch, so remove from the splice BECAUSE YOU ARE CRANKING WHEN KEY IN RUN... just in case the black wire at the red plug is ground, so DON'T SPLICE IT THERE LOL

[MAD]

BLACK wire in start position shows little voltage at start position enough to set my test light off (dim)

-My orange box is still in place near the golve box all wired up.

-I Disconnected the reset (jumper) red plug and tapped it back in place as it was stock.

2 Things i noticed tonight, My coil really warm to the touch and a click from my distributor when in full start position.

[MAD]

Tomorrow im going to test my Starter to see if i get 12 v when in the start position, That way i can rule out if its my starter or my Ignition switch or NSS.

Knowing now that my orange CANADIAN interlock box is designed not to have a reset box im confident ill be able to track down the issue..

[Nacho-RT74]

BLACK wire in start position shows little voltage at start position enough to set my test light off (dim)

it shouldn't even that

-My orange box is still in place near the golve box all wired up.

-I Disconnected the reset (jumper) red plug and tapped it back in place as it was stock.

Knowing now that my orange CANADIAN interlock box is designed not to have a reset box im confident ill be able to track down the issue..

well... unless "interlock" control orange box is damaged ( what for this is hard to get it since the jumper is straight built into the circuit board ) jump the yellow wires at reset button plug is not needed, but doesn't hurts to keep it for a while you track down the problem. Definitelly what really need is remove the blue wire from the jump splice.

Tomorrow im going to test my Starter to see if i get 12 v when in the start position, That way i can rule out if its my starter or my Ignition switch or NSS.

as far i have read you made to crank the engine ( mostly sure because the blue wire spliced into the two yellow wires ), and you told the yellow wire is not getting power. As far the yellow wire doesn't get power, will never get to crank the engine with key.

I bet is the ign switch by what I can tell ( black wire dimming and no power to yellow wire in Start position )

[MAD]

agreed. Bad Ignition switch seems like it could be the problem.
Gonna run some more test tonight before i head to the parts store to buy new parts.

Should i get 12 volts from YELLOW out of the ignition switch to atleast the connector? or will Power only run down YELLOW untill splice to Interlock box is finalized?

[Nacho-RT74]

here a view of the built in jumper on orange "interlock" control boxes

sorry the blurry pic, was made with an old nokia cellphone back in the days.. note the far right green circled and will see the printed circuit board jumper track, matching the two yellow wires. Is the same you are making on engine bay.

( I can't recall why I made the other two circles on left LOL )

[Nacho-RT74]

Should i get 12 volts from YELLOW out of the ignition switch to atleast the connector? or will Power only run down YELLOW untill splice to Interlock box is finalized?

YES... from ign switch harness/plug, should be straight power... the power to interlock and starter relay is spliced after that, but from ign switch is a straight signal. remember ign switch is the same in mostly all 70s Mopars, no matter if interlock system or not

here is how the yellow circuit runs and power coming out once interlock control box gets the correct fasten seatbelt sequence to close the cranking circuit. In your case, is the printed circuit board jumper.

there you can see how the circuit is closed in case of interlock control fail ( or whatever reason ) when reset button is dispossed... ( or when you make the physical jumper like you did )

[MAD]

UPDATE
-Installed new Ballast resistor
-Installed new Distributor cap & Rotor (Old one had a crack down one side)

This didnt solve my no crank issue but they were things needed to be replaced.

My shift linkage is all lose but im able to find park and get my test light to light up on the "G" Post of the started relay, and goes off when in "D" etc.

"I Did a test" when i turn the key to start position the dome light and headlights dont dim they go brighter and still no power to YELLOW WIRE

[MAD]

ISSUE SOLVED
-It was the Ignition switch. yellow Wire was off terminal at switch.

Link of my build has photos of the ignition system: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,108685.msg1339441.html#msg1339441