New rear end

[Firetodd]

So I want to get a new rear end on the 67. My car originally came with the 3.23 Sure Grip, but the previous owner replaced it with a 2.76. Since I have the 727 automatic I am thinking of getting a 3.55 Sure Grip put in the rear. I got a quote to have this done as I have never tackled taking a third member apart. The quote is for replacing the third member and yoke and pinion for 1509 after tax and labor. Is this a good price? Is this an easy swap if I were to but a complete third member instead of having a shop do it?

BTW I have the 742 case and a 383 motor.

[Ghoste]

It's a very easy swap.

[Firetodd]

Easy as in bolt on easy, or do I beep special tools and knowledge

[Cooter]

Need to make sure the chunk you are gettin has the thrust buttons in it and you are famliar with setting axle end play...

[Troy]

Actually installing it is fairly easy. Jack the back of the car up and put it on jack stands. Pull the wheels, remove the brake drums, and slide axles out a few inches. Unbolt u-joint, move drive shaft out of the way, unbolt differential, raise the nose a tiny bit while all the oil drains, and then slide it out the front. I use a jack and run a strap around the diff and jack pad because it's a heavy thing to be holding over your head while laying on the ground under the car! Reinstall is the reverse except you need to set the end play - which isn't hard. The whole process is simple if you have a service manual and just follow the steps. The first time took me more than a couple hours and the last one took less than an hour. There is a gasket for the diff itself but I think most people just skip it and use a good sealant/gasket maker. That's how I've done all mine after the first one (which leaked!).

How much of your quote is labor for removal and installation? You can buy an entire pumpkin ready to bolt in with new gears and an Auburn "posi" (their word!) from Mancini for $1350:
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/comcen.html

The sell off your old center section OR keep it if you ever want to go on a long trip and could use the added gas mileage. Some people will load one up with 4.10s for a little fun on the street or track and then switch back to 2.76 or 3.23 for the "normal" cruising. What size are your rear tires? A 3.55 might be a little much if you spend any time on the highway and have stock(ish) sized tires. If you have 28" tires the 3.55 is practically identical to the factory 3.23 with stock tires.

I would not try to replace the actual gears myself because there's a lot more knowledge and special tooling required than what I possess.

Troy

[Dino]

Yes be sure to have tall tires because the 3.55 gears with my stock tires drove me insane.  Even at 55 it was running way too much rpm for my taste.  I love my 2.96 gears!  For the best of both worlds have something in the 3.20 range keeping tire size in mind.

[Firetodd]

Man I love this site! Thank you fellas for all the great info! I really appreciate you helping out a noob like me! I will measure my tires and do the calculations for the highway Rpms. Sounds like this may be easier than I had thought. I'll report back with decisions and results. Now to sweet talk my wife .....

[Troy]

FYI: Mancini is having a 10% off sale:
"Click our ad in MoparMuscle.com, get a 10% Discount and anything for your ride"

Troy

[Hard Charger]

Actually installing it is fairly easy. Jack the back of the car up and put it on jack stands. Pull the wheels, remove the brake drums, and slide axles out a few inches. Unbolt u-joint, move drive shaft out of the way, unbolt differential, raise the nose a tiny bit while all the oil drains, and then slide it out the front. I use a jack and run a strap around the diff and jack pad because it's a heavy thing to be holding over your head while laying on the ground under the car! Reinstall is the reverse except you need to set the end play - which isn't hard. The whole process is simple if you have a service manual and just follow the steps. The first time took me more than a couple hours and the last one took less than an hour. There is a gasket for the diff itself but I think most people just skip it and use a good sealant/gasket maker. That's how I've done all mine after the first one (which leaked!).

How much of your quote is labor for removal and installation? You can buy an entire pumpkin ready to bolt in with new gears and an Auburn "posi" (their word!) from Mancini for $1350:
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/comcen.html

The sell off your old center section OR keep it if you ever want to go on a long trip and could use the added gas mileage. Some people will load one up with 4.10s for a little fun on the street or track and then switch back to 2.76 or 3.23 for the "normal" cruising. What size are your rear tires? A 3.55 might be a little much if you spend any time on the highway and have stock(ish) sized tires. If you have 28" tires the 3.55 is practically identical to the factory 3.23 with stock tires.

I would not try to replace the actual gears myself because there's a lot more knowledge and special tooling required than what I possess.

Troy

Great information Troy. Nice and simple.

Thanks

[Hard Charger]

FYI: Mancini is having a 10% off sale:
"Click our ad in MoparMuscle.com, get a 10% Discount and anything for your ride"

Troy

Code is MM114

Put in the comments line.

[Firetodd]

Ok, well everyone has been awesome! I have talked with Cass from Doctor Diff several times. If you haven't dealt with him, he is very knowledgeable and helpful. I will be ordering from him the complete third member with 3.55 gears, and Eaton True Trac unit in a 742 case.

Since I am taking the rear end apart, I thought that this would be a good time to replace the noisy wheel bearings, sagging leaf springs, and rear shocks. I am also thinking of adding a rear sway bar. I have kicked around working on the motor with various upgrades, but thought I'd work from the back forward as this will most likely give me the best bang for my buck. I know the front end could use new bushings as well, but the front rebuild lot will have to wait as I move toward the front.

Hopefully I can get this work done in the next three weeks. Then I must wait for more leaves to grow on the money tree

[Firetodd]

Well Dr Diff didn't have the gears in stock for the 742 case, so rather than buying something different, I decided to post in the wanted section of this site for a new third member. Member Travis (69charger2002) replied and I bought a used 8 3/4" 742 complete third member with 3.55 gears with sure grip. I purchased new green bearings from Dr Diff and installed everything yesterday.

I'm glad I pulled it all apart as I found that the timken bearings that were in my rear end were loose and wobbly and were likely the cause for the groan I could hear from my rear end. Also I found that one of my rear drum brake shoes was cracked. I cut off the wheel bearings and went to the maintenance shop for my fire department and pressed on the new bearings. Then I stopped at O Reilly's and picked up new shoes. When I got home I took out the old third member and put the "new" chunk in. When someone said that it would be heavy to get in they weren't kidding! A little instruction for my wife on operating the floor jack and I was able to get that in. I used gasket maker silicone instead of the paper gasket as members have said that the silicone is less probe to leaking. I got everything back together and started on the brakes.

I got the drivers side together and decided to press on the brakes to make sure that I put the shoes back together correctly and forgot that the passenger side wasn't on. Well after being careful to not make a mess, I leaked brake fluid all over the driveway. Dumb. I then put everything back together and now had to bleed the brakes.

I then took her out for a spin. Wow! I chirped the tires up the street without even trying! I also noticed she likes to chirp when shifting from 1st to 2nd. Also, the groan from the back end is gone! I'm very happy!

[moparsr2fast]

  IMHO, the 3:55 / 3:54 ( Dana 60 ) is an ideal gearset for our chargers 

[69chargerboy]

So I want to get a new rear end on the 67. My car originally came with the 3.23 Sure Grip, but the previous owner replaced it with a 2.76. Since I have the 727 automatic I am thinking of getting a 3.55 Sure Grip put in the rear. I got a quote to have this done as I have never tackled taking a third member apart. The quote is for replacing the third member and yoke and pinion for 1509 after tax and labor. Is this a good price? Is this an easy swap if I were to but a complete third member instead of having a shop do it?

BTW I have the 742 case and a 383 motor.

Hello, I just bought my third member from a place called JD Race and Restoration in Ohio. For a complete rebuild, 489 Case new Yukon 3.55 gear, Power Lock, bearings/seals and soda blasted core, primed and painted ran me $1275. I wasn't too far from his shop, so I picked it up. The owners name is Jim Mitschke at (330)990-8155, super nice guy VERY knowledgeable. He also gave me proper setup and break-in instructions as well. I would give him a call before you do what you have planned.  

[Firetodd]

I already put one in - see two posts above.

[69chargerboy]

I already put one in - see two posts above.

My Bad....Didnt read it entirely...... LOL 

[fy469rtse]

Good job , see now that's a confidence booster, you've tackled a relative big job and won , will give you trust in your own ability s to tackle more
The only part I didn't like was being talked in to using ford GM type green bearings, original the best, read your factory manual and about setting end play, yours probably didn't have the axle end play adjusted properly,
I hope you get a long life out of these bearings , the factory ones are long life properly installed

[Firetodd]

Here are some pictures of the old bearings and the new bearings.

[fy469rtse]

Very nice car, didn't realise how much the colour red suits this model year

[green69rt]

Don't forget the suregrip additive to the rear end grease.

[moparsr2fast]

I have had very good luck with the green bearings.. Nice ride Firetodd 

[fy469rtse]

Not that there's anything wrong with them, they just don't take anywhere the side load pressure compared to factory ones