settle me and buddies arguement.

[Cooter]

So how fast could YOU go in a typical  full steel, B body Mopar,  for limited funds. Say, like $20,000.00 in the whole car. (Used to be in our racing club, 10k, but the cost of buying an older mopar has gone up) NOT interested in uber high dollar resto's, just decent drivers with little rust here and there. (No rat rod muscle cars that seem to be the in thing either)

No Nitrous ....would like to hear from pump fuel, all motor car.

My buddy claims I can't run high tens, low 11's for under $35k. You know the old addage, "hell, the drivetrain will cost you $25k"...

This is assuming you know a little bout repairs/tuning and do not have to pay "your guy" to tune it.

I still think it can be done.
so, if YOU had to do this, what is YOUR recipe? Reliable? Race only?

[cdr]

find a good 4 door b body & the rest would be no problem   if it has to be a 2 door just weld the rear doors shut.   

[cdr]

440 stock stroke, alum heads,port myself,solid flat tappet cam, gut the car .

[Cooter]

See, this is good Charlie. I wasn't even thinkin bout 4dr stuff. That's points there.
What about gear? Could it still be driven reasonably?
I would think a high ten 1/4 mile car could still be driven on the street without a rollback and a fuel tanker on call.

[cdr]

i think it could be very streetable, 4.10 gear,although it would be a VERY ugly car with no frills,used parts ,, you know dirty white boy stuff 

[Daytona R/T SE]

.

[6spd68]

i think it could be very streetable, 4.10 gear,although it would be a VERY ugly car with no frills,used parts ,, you know dirty white boy stuff 

Isn't that our favorite 

[moparsr2fast]

10s with a 25 k buget?  Yes sir.. it can be done if itdoesn't need to double as a show poodle.

4:30 gear, built automatic with a decent convertor, middle of the road stroke... ie 440  =  472 ( welded crank),  hand ported rpm heads, good roller hydraulic roller cam, and stick it all in an old dart. Then hang on!! 

[Cooter]

B body, full steel fellas....

[moparsr2fast]

  Would a 66/67 satellite or coronet work?   Spend some $ to get her to hook, caltracs,  sub frame connectors...

Use a 400 block. Get the bobweight to that of a small block chevy.

 Lose the interior, door guts, heater core ect... lighten her up as much as possible.

 Some people used to run ducts from the hi beams to the aircleaner.  

http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=191088472132

[el dub]

There was at one time a Direct Connection magazine like catalog that could take your car down into the nines with just bolt on stuff and head porting on the 906 heads. Plus it showed how to port the heads with templates I think. So yes it could be done. They showed steps to go from the 14's down to the nines or tens I forget.

[Ponch ®]

i think it could be very streetable, 4.10 gear,although it would be a VERY ugly car with no frills,used parts ,, you know dirty white mexican boy stuff 

there, fixed it for ya 

[Ponch ®]

and why is no one mentioning late 3rd gens? You can pick up a decent shape 73/74 Charger/Satellite for a couple of grand, the rest goes into the motor / suspension.

[moparsr2fast]

and why is no one mentioning late 3rd gens? You can pick up a decent shape 73/74 Charger/Satellite for a couple of grand, the rest goes into the motor / suspension.

  Close to #1000 weight difference...

[Ponch ®]

and why is no one mentioning late 3rd gens? You can pick up a decent shape 73/74 Charger/Satellite for a couple of grand, the rest goes into the motor / suspension.

  Close to #1000 weight difference...

SHUT THE F...RONT DOOR!

For real? 1000?

[JB400]

Personally, I'd look at a 64/65 model b body.  6 cyl. torsion bars.  Altered wheelbase (never said anything about chassis mods )  gutted interior, battery in the trunk, 3 spd auto (unless your Ronnie Sox)  440 with stroker crank, 6 pack carb setup, no windows, no dash, 6 pt. rollcage, Ford 9 inch or Mopar 8 3/4 with 4.30 gears.

I say you could dip into the 10's.

[moparsr2fast]

 

and why is no one mentioning late 3rd gens? You can pick up a decent shape 73/74 Charger/Satellite for a couple of grand, the rest goes into the motor / suspension.

  Close to #1000 weight difference...

SHUT THE F...RONT DOOR!

For real? 1000?

 Actually, it is much more like 600 pounds, but in a car you are trying to get to haul a%&, 600 pounds is quite a bit to compensate for in $. It is my understanding that every 100 lbs is worth 2 tenths in a quarter. That means all else being equal, a good second or slower in the 3rd gen.

[cdr]

100 lbs is closer to 1 tenth

lmao ponch 

[cdr]

lets pick an obtainable weight, say 3600 lbs with driver maybe less, but stick to that,for it to run 10.80's its gonna need 565 hp at the crank.  that would be very close to what my engine should make on a bad air day,i am gonna have about 7000.00 in my 511 low deck complete.  that leaves  a lot for the rest of the junker.

[Baldwinvette77]

Hmmmmm so many ways to do this if you are me 

[Steve P.]

I agree on a 64' - 65'. I had a pile of used race parts in my first 65' Coronet 500. It had no interior and I was in the service, so no money to spend on good parts. Also was not very good putting together a good combo. (Didn't know Ron back then)!!  

I never swiss cheesed the car, but was pretty lite and I was running mid 11's in the 1/4.

So if I had $20,000.00 and could buy as much as possible from others used goodies, absolutely.

Years ago a buddy and I built a Chevy Wagon that we swiss cheesed and built a 2x4 steel frame for. We put together a small block for it and chopped and shortened the car. It ran in the 10's right off the trailer...
Here is that car a few years ago with just a few (lol) alterations.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KRjpT_DML_Q

[Ponch ®]

100 lbs is closer to 1 tenth

lmao ponch 

white boys aint the only ones that like going to junkyards 

[Cooter]

I'm was thinkin more along the lines of around 3830-4000 lb B body, as myself and full tank of fuel usually puts a full street car (not ness. A stripped out car) up around that mark. I still say high tens would be doable without a banker backing you.

[Steve P.]

You would have to actually make a CODE like set of boundaries. Ot like a racing class.

Weight
CI.
Tire size
ALL steel
new or used part
So on...

Otherwise everyone is simply putting together the lightest possible car.

I bet I could get a 65' B-body down under 3000 with a big block and full tank of gas... Every bit of the car would be lightened up and no hinges. I would use tape to hold down the sheet of skin that use to be a hood. Only 1 door would open and it would be 2 steel nuts and steel wire to hang the outer skin only. Chopped to a very low height. Plastic windows. 14" aluminum skinnies up front with skinny race tires. 10 x 30 slicks on aluminum out back. Welded in and tied tubular K-member with Rack & Pinion. Rear sump truck oil pan. Drilled brakes. No inner fender wells up front. Battery to trunk. No alternator. plastic light weight cooling fan on a switch. Aluminum electric water pump on a switch. All hinges gone. Aluminum bumper brackets if we have to have steel bumpers. No bright work or extra frills. Grill filler to keep air flow from under the hood while going down the track. GUTTED of course. 8 3/4 or 9" rear end for weight savings and cheaper gear selection. Low as it can go to cut through the air.

If this is to go in the 10's it will need a cage, so also a minimum would have to be set for that as well. 

[RallyeMike]

So what you really want to know is how quick, not how fast.

I'm going 170 for about $13k. Lessee... if my math is right, that would be $76.5/mph, or $20,000 - 261mph. That's how it works, right?