How to fix stripped out sheetmetal screw holes

[66FBCharger]

Does anyone have any tricks on how to fix stripped out sheetmetal holes? Unfortunately, my road runner is all painted and upon reassembly I found that the voltage reg. and ballast resistor mounting holes do not allow the screws to be tightened up. Since the car is all painted my options are limited.
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

[green69rt]

If the holes have not had the metal actually reamed out but is just pulled  (bent) by the thread screws then sometimes you can just pound the hole closed a little.   You need to be able to get to the back side of the hole and put the head of a hammer or a body dolly behind the hole.  On the other side just use some kind of hammer to flatten the hole down,  this will also close up the hole a tiny amount, maybe enough to provide grip on the screw.   Be careful about tightening the screw down because the metal of the hole is probably going to be weaker after this work.  Getting behind these holes may be tough, I'm betting they're behind the heater box   Only other thing I can think of is a bigger screw.

[charger Downunder]

Could you just tap the inside of the hole with a mig welder.

[twodko]

Yeah, slightly bigger screw or apply a small dollop of clear Gorilla glue to the threads and put the screw back in place. I've done this a couple times and it works.

[polywideblock]

bit of a bodge up I know        but if you put an opened  paper clip in hole it gives screw something to grab hold of , wire doesn't seem to do it need the steel paper clip

[fy469rtse]

Polywideblock ,
you just invented the paper clip helli coil thread replacement, put a patent on it mate ,

[green69rt]

bit of a bodge up I know        but if you put an opened  paper clip in hole it gives screw something to grab hold of , wire doesn't seem to do it need the steel paper clip

I like this!!  Now if I can just remember this dodge when I need it 

[Nacho-RT74]

I have used the "clip" method for years, but using wires... sometimes works, sometimes not.

you can use a small thin gauge sheet metal piece folded into the hole too.

[matrout76]

lightly pein the hole with a small ball pein hammer and a dolly on the back side.

The steel is usually stretched and pushed away from the center of the hole.  if you flatten it back out, there should be enough for the screw to grip.

Or, use the next size larger screw.

[twodko]

Great idea Poly.

[Dino]

bit of a bodge up I know        but if you put an opened  paper clip in hole it gives screw something to grab hold of , wire doesn't seem to do it need the steel paper clip

How does that work?  You stick one leg in the hole and tighten the screw? 

[twodko]

You got it Dino........it's sort of like dating. 

[Dan 70]

66, I am sending you this article in hopes that it will help you.http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/archive/index.php/t-124939.html. I haven't tried to do this, but it seems like a good solution.
     

[Dino]

You got it Dino........it's sort of like dating. 

[Nacho-RT74]

another solution... use an screw with teehted washer from inside, and a retainer washer on engine bay side... then attach the reg and ballast with a nut instead the bolt head

what I didn on my car: the ECU module holes got stripped too.. I made slots and install U nuts aligned with original ECU firewall holes. Done... if U nut get striped, just replace it. Once the ECU is mounted, is not visible, because did the slots underneath the ECU.

Of course U nuts need to be installed from inside. 3rd gens are maybe easier because the cowl area access is not inside the cab, just removing the plastic grilles on top. ECU is attached over the cowl area on 3rd gens.

J nuts could be easier to install though, if slot is small

[66FBCharger]

66, I am sending you this article in hopes that it will help you.http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/archive/index.php/t-124939.html. I haven't tried to do this, but it seems like a good solution.
     

Actually I was thinking of using a nutsert, but I was not sure if it would work. It sounds like it will work. It is the perfect solution. It is a permanent fix, will allow the regulator to be grounded and will not require me to do anything that might damage the new paint.
Thanks for the link Dan 70!

[Dan 70]

No problem, 66. I hope everything works out for you.