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The never ending project= rear axles and brake kits? recommendations?

Started by Lord Warlock, November 30, 2013, 04:19:57 PM

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Lord Warlock

Had to cut the rear drum off the drivers side rear wheel, in doing so managed to cut the axle flange in the process,  need to buy replacement axles,  Also need to figure out how to get them out.  I don't have to open the rear differential to get the axles off do I?  Where do the people buy axle shafts from?  Is there a preferred vendor that people trust?  Hate just blindly picking one from an internet search and trusting the first one i find. 

Rear brake kits, need to either totally rebuild the rear drums in the back, or replace the drums with a rear disc kit.  I looked at MP brakes and they had a kit for 895.00 for the rear brakes (did not include axles) who else sells rear disc conversion kits.  I have 17 inch rims so clearance shouldn't be a problem.  Do rear discs work better than rear drums? what do you recommend to do at this point? 

Thanks,

Lord Warlock
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

sanders7981

The axles will slide out without taking the center of the 8 3/4 out.  Just unbolt the five retainer nuts from the inside face of the axle.  If it doesn't slide out, you will probably need a slide hammer and flange to get them out.  I rented the tools from autozone.  As far as brakes, I just installed a kit from rightstuff brakes, everything went on pretty easy.  While I can't comment on the performance of the equipment, it was a pretty simple install and the kit is mopar specific.  The kit was about $1100 for all four discs, if you just need the rears, it will be substantially cheaper. 

Axles... I would look on dr diff's site.  He has mopar specific stuff there.  He also has brakes there as well.  Which I hear he has a great reputation in the community. 
http://www.doctordiff.com

bill440rt

I have Moser rear axles with a Wilwood rear kit on my '69.
Have to use snap-ring style Green bearings with the Wilwood kit.

Most rear disc brake kits require the use of Green bearings.
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

Lord Warlock

Dr Differential has axles for what looks like 295.00 each, does it make sense to only replace one side?  normally I would replace both just to ensure against failure, but it took almost 40 years for me to screw up a single axle.  I'm trying to decide now which length of studs to get for the axle, as the originals are a tad short for the longer wheel lug nuts i'm using with the 17 inch magnum 500s i just got recently.  I'm pretty sure that even if i needed to cut off the other sides drum cover, this time i wouldn't cut thru the axle as i know what area to avoid, i could use a much smaller cut off wheel to make sure i didn't cut through the important parts. 

I currently already have replacement hub covers for drum brakes, new brake pads for the drums, new lines from front to rear.  Tomorrow i plan on taking the drum brake assembly off the axle entirely and totally disassembling the piece.  I will probably order the rebuild kit from dr diff which includes all the parts for both sides in the kit, After thinking long and hard about the rear brakes, I just don't see a strong need to swap out the drums for discs in the back, the fronts more or less stopped the car most of the time anyway, and i doubt i'll be driving the car a huge amount in the future, even if and when i get it on the road again.  Therefore, i'll fix the drums, rebuild them, possibly get both axles instead, and move on to the next piece to rebuild. 
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

Mopar Nut

Quote from: Lord Warlock on December 01, 2013, 02:01:36 AM
I will probably order the rebuild kit from dr diff which includes all the parts for both sides in the kit,
I did the same thing.
Quote from: Lord Warlock on December 01, 2013, 02:01:36 AM
Therefore, i'll fix the drums, rebuild them, possibly get both axles instead,   
:iagree:
"Dear God, my prayer for 2024 is a fat bank account and a thin body. Please don't mix these up like you did the last ten years."

cdr

Quote from: Lord Warlock on December 01, 2013, 02:01:36 AM
Dr Differential has axles for what looks like 295.00 each, does it make sense to only replace one side?  normally I would replace both just to ensure against failure, but it took almost 40 years for me to screw up a single axle.  I'm trying to decide now which length of studs to get for the axle, as the originals are a tad short for the longer wheel lug nuts i'm using with the 17 inch magnum 500s i just got recently.  I'm pretty sure that even if i needed to cut off the other sides drum cover, this time i wouldn't cut thru the axle as i know what area to avoid, i could use a much smaller cut off wheel to make sure i didn't cut through the important parts.  

I currently already have replacement hub covers for drum brakes, new brake pads for the drums, new lines from front to rear.  Tomorrow i plan on taking the drum brake assembly off the axle entirely and totally disassembling the piece.  I will probably order the rebuild kit from dr diff which includes all the parts for both sides in the kit, After thinking long and hard about the rear brakes, I just don't see a strong need to swap out the drums for discs in the back, the fronts more or less stopped the car most of the time anyway, and i doubt i'll be driving the car a huge amount in the future, even if and when i get it on the road again.  Therefore, i'll fix the drums, rebuild them, possibly get both axles instead, and move on to the next piece to rebuild.  

295.for both axles,studs ,wheel bearings,,,its an axle kit
LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
Charger55 by Charlie Keel, on Flickr

Lord Warlock

you will probably need a slide hammer and flange to get them out.  I rented the tools from autozone.

What is meant by a flange? I'm now at the stage where the parts are here, and the axle is staring at me accusingly, it wobbles a little bit when trying to turn it but it doesn't budge when i try to pull on it.  The slide hammer i have was designed for a stud welder, and won't work for this purpose, so I'll need to go to autozone and see if they can rent/loan me
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.


Lord Warlock

Thanks, i have one of those unopened that i picked up as a possible wheel puller, before i cut the axle with a grinder...
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

b5blue

Don't rotate the axle half shafts when you do this job, straight out straight in one at a time. Save the old mounting plates and adjuster with locking pawl from the old axle half shafts. Put them in something clearly marked in case you ever need or want to go back to the old style bearing.

sanders7981

Quote from: b5blue on December 12, 2013, 06:25:38 AM
Don't rotate the axle half shafts when you do this job, straight out straight in one at a time. Save the old mounting plates and adjuster with locking pawl from the old axle half shafts. Put them in something clearly marked in case you ever need or want to go back to the old style bearing.

Good call... Also, most disc conversion brake kits require the use of the newer green bearings I believe.

Dino

Quote from: sanders7981 on December 12, 2013, 11:40:11 AM
Quote from: b5blue on December 12, 2013, 06:25:38 AM
Don't rotate the axle half shafts when you do this job, straight out straight in one at a time. Save the old mounting plates and adjuster with locking pawl from the old axle half shafts. Put them in something clearly marked in case you ever need or want to go back to the old style bearing.

Good call... Also, most disc conversion brake kits require the use of the newer green bearings I believe.

I've never seen a rear disc brake kit that did not require the green bearings to be honest.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

WHITE AND RED 69

Quote from: Dino on December 12, 2013, 11:54:00 AM
Quote from: sanders7981 on December 12, 2013, 11:40:11 AM
Quote from: b5blue on December 12, 2013, 06:25:38 AM
Don't rotate the axle half shafts when you do this job, straight out straight in one at a time. Save the old mounting plates and adjuster with locking pawl from the old axle half shafts. Put them in something clearly marked in case you ever need or want to go back to the old style bearing.

Good call... Also, most disc conversion brake kits require the use of the newer green bearings I believe.

I've never seen a rear disc brake kit that did not require the green bearings to be honest.

All the Baer rear kits work with both the stock and green bearings. Dr. Diff also sells the same kit I am running but with a 10.7" rotor for 15" wheels that works with either bearings.    :cheers:
1969 Dodge Charger R/T
2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee 75th edition
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1972 Plymouth Duster

Dino

Quote from: WHITE AND RED 69 on December 12, 2013, 01:42:51 PM
Quote from: Dino on December 12, 2013, 11:54:00 AM
Quote from: sanders7981 on December 12, 2013, 11:40:11 AM
Quote from: b5blue on December 12, 2013, 06:25:38 AM
Don't rotate the axle half shafts when you do this job, straight out straight in one at a time. Save the old mounting plates and adjuster with locking pawl from the old axle half shafts. Put them in something clearly marked in case you ever need or want to go back to the old style bearing.

Good call... Also, most disc conversion brake kits require the use of the newer green bearings I believe.

I've never seen a rear disc brake kit that did not require the green bearings to be honest.

All the Baer rear kits work with both the stock and green bearings. Dr. Diff also sells the same kit I am running but with a 10.7" rotor for 15" wheels that works with either bearings.    :cheers:

Good to know!   :2thumbs:
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

Mopar Nut

Quote from: WHITE AND RED 69 on December 12, 2013, 01:42:51 PM
Quote from: Dino on December 12, 2013, 11:54:00 AM
Quote from: sanders7981 on December 12, 2013, 11:40:11 AM
Quote from: b5blue on December 12, 2013, 06:25:38 AM
Don't rotate the axle half shafts when you do this job, straight out straight in one at a time. Save the old mounting plates and adjuster with locking pawl from the old axle half shafts. Put them in something clearly marked in case you ever need or want to go back to the old style bearing.

Good call... Also, most disc conversion brake kits require the use of the newer green bearings I believe.

I've never seen a rear disc brake kit that did not require the green bearings to be honest.

All the Baer rear kits work with both the stock and green bearings. Dr. Diff also sells the same kit I am running but with a 10.7" rotor for 15" wheels that works with either bearings.    :cheers:
True, both of my rear Baer kits don't require the green bearings.
"Dear God, my prayer for 2024 is a fat bank account and a thin body. Please don't mix these up like you did the last ten years."

Lord Warlock

While picking up some anti rust paint at the local paint distributor, i picked up a slide hammer, made in china so wonder if it will last past 3 hits.  But it was fairly cheap, I figured I'd rather own one rather than borrow one as I'll need one again when i get this side done and move to do the other side,  Already have the flange, so will see if i can get it loose this coming weekend.   Will have to push another car out of the way to make clearance to pull it all the way out.  Which means it will be sitting in a position that will keep me from closing the garage door.  But i do want to get the car off jack stands so will do what I gotta do.  

I'm not planning on doing rear discs, thought about it, but rejected the expense, figure rebuilding both drums should be fine.  
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

Lord Warlock

Slide hammer and the proper flange works wonders.   Really helps to have the right tools.  Borrowed a flange from autozone, and was able to pull the axle in about 20 minutes.  took the brake apart, then rebuilt it today and got the new axle in.  Now i get to see if i can get the passenger side hub off next week. 
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

Lord Warlock

Got the distribution block for the brake system installed today, the main rear line was too long, evidently it was made for someone not using power rear brakes, as it was the right length to install to the main distribution block, but the hold off valve on the rear brake line had to be set aside for now, I'd have to cut the line to shorten it to add it in to the plumbing. Now i have to install the lines from the brake hose to the caliper.  Have to look at some examples of calipers to decide what color to paint the caliper itself, silver, grey, or black, they look rusty reddish now, were grey when i got them back from rebuild, have to color them with something to keep it from rusting again in future.  Get to take drivers front caliper off tomorrow, then lower car, jack up the passenger rear and see if i can get the hub/drum off tomorrow. 

Have to start calling glass shops to install the windshield, has to be an on site thing, its time to get that back in place as well as getting the gas filler tube cleared of the stuck locking gas cap.
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

sanders7981

Looks like we are both making a bit of progress this winter!  I hope to finally have mine drivable by spring. 

Lord Warlock

Got the front caliper off I started yesterday,  think i may take both of the calipers in to the brake shop to have them go thru them and clean them up a bit, and reseat the seals, the pucks don't seem to be going in far enough to get the pads over the new rotors.  Plus they look a little rusty to me after sitting on the shelf for 7 years or so.

I took off the passenger side drum brake cover today, didn't have to cut it off like the last one, but did pretty much ruin the cover in the process, I have a new one for it so am not that concerned, I plan on rebuilding that drum tomorrow or the week after Xmas but also need to go ahead and replace the axle on this side since i have a new one ready to go, so i undid the nuts holding it on, but will need to borrow a flange to pull it.  (leaving to visit family on Friday morning) I really want to clean the back plate completely, then paint it black to match the other side, then have to let it dry enough to start messing with it, which tells me it will likely get done after my trip.  I've made significant progress on the car in the last month and a half, I've managed to take care of one of the main obtacles to getting it back on the street, the brakes, and also got started doing the fuel system which is the other half of the equation, will be putting new fuel lines in soon, as well as a gas tank...as soon as i fix the trunk floor.  Been putting off calling the glass shop to install the front glass, but think i'll be making an appointment for that as well the week after xmas.  So much to do, so little time to get it done.  Will have to start looking for a new job after the 1st of the year, can't play hobbyist forever, need more $$$ to pay for more parts and goodies.  

Waiting for trunk floor to arrive, ordered it last week,  ordered a new pie pan for the air breather, that should get here in a day or two, Engine bay has pretty much been completed, for now, took it all apart, repainted everything, and put it all back together, still cleaning off the AC pump which i have to use for the belts, but don't plan on putting any of the other AC parts back on...yet, I'll want to get all new hoses when i move forward on that later.  Have one valve cover off to repaint, it got scratched so had to redo it.  Every time I finish one thing, I find another to replace or remove and repaint.  Really want to pressure wash the bottom of block  and rear part of K member (that will happen after i finish the brake and fuel line work).
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

Lord Warlock

got the axle pulled on the second side, (passenger) painted the brake plate, then rebuilt the rear drum, installed the axle then put the new drum cover on the car.  Only thing left to do with the back brakes is to connect the brake lines together.  Cleaned the caliper i removed last week off, soaking in an anti rust treatment, will try to compress the pistons with small c clamps tomorrow and see if i can get the caliper with pads on the rotor or not.  Still haven't got the trunk floor metal yet, so will do what i can while waiting.  May even look at removing the old fuel lines tomorrow. 
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

Lord Warlock

Hadn't updated this in a while.  Had the front calipers checked out by a trusted shop and was told they are in pretty bad shape considering they were supposed to be rebuilt, so bought a new set of calipers and got those on two weeks ago.  Car now has brakes on all four corners for the first time in 20 years.  May have to get some gas now.  Had the windshield and back glass installed, then while attempting to hook up the door locks managed to chip the paint on both doors removing the locks...live and learn...touched up the paint on the doors yesterday.  Have to wetsand and buff. This may take some time. 
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

cdr

LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
Charger55 by Charlie Keel, on Flickr