DIY voltmeter mod for 2nd gen Chargers

[Troy]

Cool! I gotta stop messing with the Challenger(s) and get a Charger back on the road.

Troy

[RECHRGD]

I ordered the black one a couple of days ago.  It will say volts rather than battery, but no biggy to me.  Great idea!

[Charger4404spd]

Dino, would like to see how you extend the needle. Pics?

[Dino]

Dino, would like to see how you extend the needle. Pics?

I have not touched this little project since I posted the how to so the needle is not yet glued to the other.  Reason is I need a finished decal before I can do this to make sure it looks like the other gauges.  The original ammeter has a longer and wider needle while the other three have the same type.  I am using one of the smaller ones for this gauge so they all match.  I never saw the purpose of that bigger needle really.

As soon as I have a decal, either my own or from whitegauges.net, I will post the finishing touches of the project including how to make sure the needle is where it is supposed to be.  This will work for either the small or larger needle as well.

Chris did you get that decal yet?   

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Nope not yet...supposed to have went out today....

I have a spare oil psi gauge...Ill have to swipe that needle

Curious as to why you had to use tin snips to shape the new gauge face?  That face is not on there now right?  Just the bare voltmeter screwed to the original faceplate no?

[Dino]

Correct, just the bare voltmeter.  The reason the Charger's stock faceplate needs trimming is because of the size of that coil on the voltmeter.  It sticks out quite a bit from the needle and it's important to keep the needle a certain distance from the gauge face. You could try to avoid that but it would require a ton of adjusting on the gauge and the stock cluster housing and I'd rather cut into a spare rusty gauge face.   

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

OOOhhh...you cut the stock faceplate, not the plastic new gauge one....in the pics it looks like you cut the plastic one to fit the stock faceplate  Thanks

[RECHRGD]

Is there a trick to getting the clock adjusting knob off the shaft going into the clock.  I'm about ready to put the new voltage meter in and pulled the cluster today.  I put a small screwdriver in through the knob to hold the shaft and tried to unscrew the knob.  It would not budge, so I may have stripped it in my attempts to get it off.  At any rate it now will turn but not back off.  Is there a trick, or did I just screw up again?

[Troy]

Is there a trick to getting the clock adjusting knob off the shaft going into the clock.  I'm about ready to put the new voltage meter in and pulled the cluster today.  I put a small screwdriver in through the knob to hold the shaft and tried to unscrew the knob.  It would not budge, so I may have stripped it in my attempts to get it off.  At any rate it now will turn but not back off.  Is there a trick, or did I just screw up again?

If I remember right, there's a wee little tiny set screw in the end. I filed down a stud welding stud in the shape of a flat head and then bent the other end like an Allen wrench.

Troy

[tsmithae]

Is there a trick to getting the clock adjusting knob off the shaft going into the clock.  I'm about ready to put the new voltage meter in and pulled the cluster today.  I put a small screwdriver in through the knob to hold the shaft and tried to unscrew the knob.  It would not budge, so I may have stripped it in my attempts to get it off.  At any rate it now will turn but not back off.  Is there a trick, or did I just screw up again?

If I remember right, there's a wee little tiny set screw in the end. I filed down a stud welding stud in the shape of a flat head and then bent the other end like an Allen wrench.

Troy

Yes, there is a very very tiny set screw.  It takes a jewelers screwdriver to get it out. IIRC, hold the knob steady and then turn the set screw. 

[RECHRGD]

Is there a trick to getting the clock adjusting knob off the shaft going into the clock.  I'm about ready to put the new voltage meter in and pulled the cluster today.  I put a small screwdriver in through the knob to hold the shaft and tried to unscrew the knob.  It would not budge, so I may have stripped it in my attempts to get it off.  At any rate it now will turn but not back off.  Is there a trick, or did I just screw up again?

If I remember right, there's a wee little tiny set screw in the end. I filed down a stud welding stud in the shape of a flat head and then bent the other end like an Allen wrench.

Troy

Yes, there is a very very tiny set screw.  It takes a jewelers screwdriver to get it out. IIRC, hold the knob steady and then turn the set screw. 

Thanks...  I did find the screw but thought it was just a slot at the end of the shaft.  So, I held the jewelers screwdriver with some pliers and turned the knob, so I've probably messed up the knob.  I'll see if I can hold the shaft with a small needle nose and then try to break set screw free.  As usual, one step forward and two steps back.

[Dino]

Is there a trick to getting the clock adjusting knob off the shaft going into the clock.  I'm about ready to put the new voltage meter in and pulled the cluster today.  I put a small screwdriver in through the knob to hold the shaft and tried to unscrew the knob.  It would not budge, so I may have stripped it in my attempts to get it off.  At any rate it now will turn but not back off.  Is there a trick, or did I just screw up again?

If I remember right, there's a wee little tiny set screw in the end. I filed down a stud welding stud in the shape of a flat head and then bent the other end like an Allen wrench.

Troy

Yes, there is a very very tiny set screw.  It takes a jewelers screwdriver to get it out. IIRC, hold the knob steady and then turn the set screw. 

Thanks...  I did find the screw but thought it was just a slot at the end of the shaft.  So, I held the jewelers screwdriver with some pliers and turned the knob, so I've probably messed up the knob.  I'll see if I can hold the shaft with a small needle nose and then try to break set screw free.  As usual, one step forward and two steps back.

Try this first:  As with any tricky screw you need to put a certain amount of pressure on it with the screwdriver or you're going nowhere...and neither is the screw.  Grab the knob and slowly pull it toward you while you have the screwdriver in place.  When you feel a good amount of tension, firmly push into the screw slot and give it a quick turn.  Once the screw is loose just keep a bit of tension pulling on the knob until the screw is out.  You may feel the need to pull harder when this fails but beware there is a limit on how much force you can place on it.  It's pretty strong but let's not find out how strong exactly.   

[RECHRGD]

Is there a trick to getting the clock adjusting knob off the shaft going into the clock.  I'm about ready to put the new voltage meter in and pulled the cluster today.  I put a small screwdriver in through the knob to hold the shaft and tried to unscrew the knob.  It would not budge, so I may have stripped it in my attempts to get it off.  At any rate it now will turn but not back off.  Is there a trick, or did I just screw up again?

If I remember right, there's a wee little tiny set screw in the end. I filed down a stud welding stud in the shape of a flat head and then bent the other end like an Allen wrench.

Troy

Yes, there is a very very tiny set screw.  It takes a jewelers screwdriver to get it out. IIRC, hold the knob steady and then turn the set screw. 

Thanks...  I did find the screw but thought it was just a slot at the end of the shaft.  So, I held the jewelers screwdriver with some pliers and turned the knob, so I've probably messed up the knob.  I'll see if I can hold the shaft with a small needle nose and then try to break set screw free.  As usual, one step forward and two steps back.

Try this first:  As with any tricky screw you need to put a certain amount of pressure on it with the screwdriver or you're going nowhere...and neither is the screw.  Grab the knob and slowly pull it toward you while you have the screwdriver in place.  When you feel a good amount of tension, firmly push into the screw slot and give it a quick turn.  Once the screw is loose just keep a bit of tension pulling on the knob until the screw is out.  You may feel the need to pull harder when this fails but beware there is a limit on how much force you can place on it.  It's pretty strong but let's not find out how strong exactly.   

OK, I'll try that. First.  I'll go out to the shop after a bit.  Honeydo's first.......

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Small update on the decal..still dont have it!    One of their printers went down so they got backed up & didnt get to mine till this Wednesday.  Supposedly went out on Thursday...Still nothing as of today Saturday

I was able to do the mod including adding on the needle....

[Dino]

Small update on the decal..still dont have it!    One of their printers went down so they got backed up & didnt get to mine till this Wednesday.  Supposedly went out on Thursday...Still nothing as of today Saturday

I was able to do the mod including adding on the needle....

I am dying to see that decal!  I can only imagine how eager you are.   

Good job on the gauge and needle, it looks to be spot on!   

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Decal showed up today....looks just like the one you made Dino save for the part #'s ect

Didnt put it on yet...temps dropped here so Ill have to wait to paint the face & fit it on..

[Dino]

That looks great!  I'm going to order one right now, I can't make mine look that high quality with a plain printer.  You have the PCG decals on the other gauges as well no?  Does it match up well in color and sheen?

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Hard to tell Dino as the cluster is still in the car.

One small observation I noticed.  If you are using any other face plate than the orig Ammeter, you will have to notch out the face plate so the light from the adjacent bulb will actually illuminate the face of the gauge.

Looking at my above pic of the oil psi gauge face plate I used, you will see its notched out on the upper right side of the plate....the next nearest bulb to that gauge is in the upper RH corner.

Comparatively the Ammeter should have the notch in the upper LH corner to let the light in to illuminate the face....will notch my face plate first before I install the decal.

PS---it looks like they ripped off your Battery design!

PSS---my above statement about the notch seems to be inaccurate.  Looking at some stock gauge pics, the ammeter isnt notched on the left upper corner...I think it should be to let more light into the gauge

[Dino]

I used a temp gauge face, the notch is the same...I should've mentioned that.  My bad guys.

They did take my design but if they give dc members a good deal then I won't complain about it.   

[RECHRGD]

I used a temp gauge face as well.  Works fine....

[RECHRGD]

Got mine done with the 'VOLT' label.  Sorry for the picture quality.  My resizing skills suck....

[Dino]

Got mine done with the 'VOLT' label.  Sorry for the picture quality.  My resizing skills suck....

That looks great!  Not bad for the price of half a tank of gas huh?   

[RECHRGD]

Got mine done with the 'VOLT' label.  Sorry for the picture quality.  My resizing skills suck....

That looks great!  Not bad for the price of half a tank of gas huh?   

Thanks Dino.  The lettering ended up a hair off, but actually none of them line up perfectly.  Good enough for me......

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Looks great Bob. Job well done!

[RECHRGD]

Looks great Bob. Job well done!

Thanks, but it never would have happened without Dino's post and details.  Thanks Dino!!!