News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

MAD 1974 DODGE CHARGER SE 400 (BUILD)

Started by MAD, February 24, 2014, 10:46:13 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

MAD

And back to the no start issue!
can bump it with driver on the starter relay but still havnt solved the no crank in start position..

Indygenerallee

Does that car have the seat belt interlock system??? I had a 74 Duster once and it did the same thing wound up being their was another metal relay box mounted near the starter relay and it wound up being bad (I just pryed the cover off and bent the contact to touch) after that the car never had a problem starting it, I do remember the relay box had a little override button or hole in it that could be depressed to get it started in a emergency. and the seatbelts had also been unplugged since I had first bought it. here is a picture of the relay. the one that was on my 74 Duster looked a bit different.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-MOPAR-1972-1973-1974-CHRYSLER-DODGE-PLYMOUTH-SEAT-BELT-RELAY-3620860-/191106317312?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c7ed2fc00&vxp=mtr
Sold my Charger unfortunately....never got it finished.

Nacho-RT74

the ebay relay posted is 72/73 deal, and is just a light and buzzer signal relay for seatbelts, not the interlocked system
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

MAD

Also Nacho notified me that Interlock saftey was not needed in Canada, i have a Orange Interlock box near my glove box and that is a good way to tell its a canadian car. Also no reset box was ever mounted to the firewall from the factory, the plug was just taped to the harness in engine bay.

Im actually really enjoying learning more about the electrics of this vehicle and electrical in general :yesnod:

Homerr

Quote from: MAD on March 19, 2014, 01:13:33 AM
Its brittle but gonna protect it and decode everything on it!

Glad you found it.  Yes, please decode it before you go further on the build!  You might find something on the broadcast sheet that you'd like to restore/save.

Nacho-RT74

Quote from: MAD on March 19, 2014, 09:32:05 AM
i have a Orange Interlock box near my glove box and that is a good way to tell its a canadian car. Also no reset box was ever mounted to the firewall from the factory, the plug was just taped to the harness in engine bay.


yeap... that box just works like a warning buzzer/lights control unit, to make work the ign key buzzer, seatbelts buzzer and lights like the interlocked system, and also the lights on buzzer ( if correct buzzer is equipped )

THIS IS JUST FOR 74s:

the non lights on warning buzzer system used this buzzer for both functions, key in and seatbelts ( 72/73 is just seatbelt ):



the lights on buzzer cars uses this one for the THREE functions ( as stated just 74s ):



both uses  same plug, attached on the outer side of passenger side of dash frame like earliers. If you like to get a light on buzzer car, just need to change that buzzer. Plug is already disposed to the 4 prongs setup

more info here:

http://wichargerguy.proboards.com/thread/1705/72-buzzers
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

ODZKing

Only real way to tell is first line of the build sheet.
You will see a line that says B/for U-C-I.
If it says U or 5 it is a USA car. C, 0 or 7 is Canada, 1 is Export (usually Australia)
S/Car 14 = Sold Car meaning ordered and 13 or 16 means a lot car or demo.

Nacho-RT74

agreed, nobody but you actually has said your car is a Canadian car, just that you got a Canadian Orange "interlock" control box in your car, what will work on an USA built car.

looking at your engine bay pics from the other thread I could note the firewall bolts where the reset button should be, so PROBABLY it was just removed and blue interlock control box ( white if manual ) replaced by the orange control box Canadian unit. This will keep all the warning signals working like the blue box would make without need to jump out anything on wiring to crank the car ;) since is set to that by default

Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

MAD

Tonight I found the (NO START) (NO CRANK) (NO POWER) it was the ignition switch.
-Pulled the steering wheel to find that i have no turn signal arm or wiring inside.
-Got a visual of the ignition switch, saw that the YELLOW wire was broke off at the contact point.
-I jammed the YELLOW wire against where it broke, hooked up the battery and VROOOM i had crank.

Im really glad i looked at all the possible issues because i learned allot about electrical and my car issues in general.
-My NSS was dirty with oil, so now its all clean (NOW MAKES GROUND)
-My Shift linkage screw was loose on the tranny and was not shifting (NOW FIXED)
-My Distributor cap had hair line cracks in it (NOW REPLACED)
-One of my plug wires was coroded and tip at distributor was missing (NOW FIXED)
-Ballast resistor was original (REPLACED)
-Realized i have a Orange interlock box dont need to be jumperd (NOW RETURNED TO STOCK)
-Had a bunch of loose ground (NOW GROUNDED)
-Realized when pulling the steering wheel i have no turn signal arm or wirring for one(ON ORDER)
-Now i know how amperage gauge works and is wired into the system(HOOKED UP STOCK AMMETER)
the list goes on and on.

Thanks NACHO and everyone else for the help and input.

MAD

You can see the yellow wire was just off by a hair.
when i pulled the ignition switch right out i found that the Ground was loose and the blue was about to fall off aswell

MAD

All parts out ready to install new ignition switch and clean up steering column while im at it.
Also need to source turn indicator arm and wiring.

Nacho-RT74

Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

MAD

So Today i want car hunting south Vancouver in Langley and bought a second 1974 Dodge Charger. This car is not running but it has tones of good parts for me to use to finish my project without going to napa.
Im pretty excited about it.

I Dont need Doors Fenders etc lots of parts i dont need so if anyone needs parts let me know..

MAD

What a fun day finding tones of mopars etc in different states in the Forest and in barns...

MAD

 :cheers:

JB400


RallyeMike

Does it have a center console or floor shift steering column in it?
1969 Charger 500 #232008
1972 Charger, Grand Sport #41
1973 Charger "T/A"

Drive as fast as you want to on a public road! Click here for info: http://www.sscc.us/

MAD

RalleyMike it has column shifter in it.

Doretwa

This is a 'rad' project you are undertaking and will be simply AWSOME once done. I would suggest to keep the white vinyl louvers, this is the classic look and what makes the car a distinctive classic...

MAD

Update on some work. opened the Barn doors on my Birthday and fired up the charger to run for a while.. revs and idles great!!!
Cut out a rusted floor pan section and replaced it with fresh metal from my donor car. welded it in place and removed all rust from the inside and coated it with a rust protector.

MAD

All painted and solid steel in place.. ready to order new carpet clean interior seats etc and install once the car has final paint!