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Pulling engine with transmission

Started by Evolution69, March 09, 2014, 10:20:41 PM

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Evolution69

Hi all

Quick few questions on pulling the motor with the tranny from the front of car with an engine hoist.

initially I was going to drop the 727 then pull the motor, ive removed all the bell housing bolts loosened the cross member bolts and disconnected everything from the tranny, Only thing I haven't done is unbolt the torque converter bolts, as the engine is locked.

So ive gone to plan B which will be pushing the car out into the drive one weekend and pulling the lot in one go.

I just want a quick low down from you guys on how to do it.

Anything I should do now while the car is up on stands and I have good clearance to work from the underside, before I put it back on to its wheels and push it outside.

Thank you for your time.
Matching numbers 1968 Dodge Charger RT

"Because bad guys always drove Chargers" - Richard Hammond


70 sublime

next project 70 Charger FJ5 green

AKcharger

Might need a helper underneath pull down on the tail shaft as you're pulling the engine up/out, otherwise all in one piece is the way to go!

fy469rtse

You can leave the torque converter bolted on , it will come out with motor, you will just need pull engine further forward, just get ready for the fluid , mess , drain as much as you can before hand , or
Take the tail shaft off and pull the trans , with the converter still attached , it will still come out  the trans I mean

Evolution69

Thanks guys

So I wouldn't need to put the bell housing to engine bolts back on?

Ive drained as much as the fluids I can, So im guessing its just the 2 motor mounts towards the front of the engine? Best to tackle them from under or over?..

Also I have a cable type engine sling where would be the best place to bolt down, I was thinking diagonally across where the heads bold onto the engine?.

Thank you for your help guys
Matching numbers 1968 Dodge Charger RT

"Because bad guys always drove Chargers" - Richard Hammond


Troy

I have an engine "leveler" which allows me to tilt it up or down while hanging from the hoist. This is nice for lining things up with the transmission when reinstalling just the engine but also very handy from removing and installing the whole engine/trans assembly. If your hoist is tall enough then it will help to raise the front of the car to give more room for tilting. Or you can lower the car once the engine is up high enough if the hoist can't go higher of if you have low ceilings. If the trans still has fluid make sure you cap the tail shaft of you'll have a big mess. You'll have to remove the hood for sure.

To remove the whole thing, you definitely need to take off everything in front - fan, engine accessories, belts, pulleys, hoses, and radiator. It probably wouldn't hurt to even remove the water pump. Pull the engine wiring harness, battery ground wire, and starter wires (I don't typically remove the starter itself). Disconnect fuel line from fuel pump (or filter depending on the setup). Disconnect exhaust at pipe flange (some of the manifold bolts are "wet" - plus they are easy to strip). Make sure the transmission linkage is removed. It doesn't hurt to remove the kick down as well since original parts are expensive and you don't want to accidentally damage it. Don't forget the throttle cable. I might even remove the carb too. Depends on the method you use to lift the engine. I prefer bolts in the head and the chain will typically run across the carb which could damage it. Other than that, I think you'll be left with the mounting bolts (engine and transmission cross member).

Troy
Sarcasm detector, that's a real good invention.

AKcharger


ottawamerc

Wouldn't another option be to leave the engine attached to the K frame and raise the car, reverse order from the way the factory put it together? :scratchchin:

Scott :cheers:
This hobby is more than just our cars, it's the people you get to meet along the way!!!

Troy

Quote from: ottawamerc on March 10, 2014, 04:49:22 PM
Wouldn't another option be to leave the engine attached to the K frame and raise the car, reverse order from the way the factory put it together? :scratchchin:

Scott :cheers:
Yes but... he has to be able to roll it back into the garage. Hard(er) to do without a front suspension.

Troy
Sarcasm detector, that's a real good invention.

AKcharger


Evolution69

Thanks guys great help

One last thing, I was planning to take the engine out alone and put it straight onto the engine stand, Would I be able to still put the engine on the engine stand with tranny attached?, Ive also seen people place the engine onto say an old tire, so not to sit it on the sump.
Thank you again
Matching numbers 1968 Dodge Charger RT

"Because bad guys always drove Chargers" - Richard Hammond


cudaken

 If you don't have a plug for the 727 tail shaft, use a good quality trash bag and duct tape to catch the fluid. Floor jack under the trail shaft is not a bad idea either. If you are going to have the 727 rebuilt, I would pull it with the engine. Pain in the ass pulling by it self from under the car.

If your picker cannot get the oil pan over the core support, few tips.

1 Offer the fat neighbor a pint to sit on the front of the car.

2 Back off the torsion bar bolts to lower the front end.

I use to pull off every thing from the front of the motor. After running a engine shop I do like my tech's did. Disconnect the engine harness from the firewall, pull radiator, fan, disconnect the hoes and pull it has a whole. If you have a AC car, I do not know if the 3 grove pulley will clear the core support?

Good luck and have fun.

Cuda Ken    
I am back

Troy

Quote from: Evolution69 on March 10, 2014, 10:14:40 PM
Thanks guys great help

One last thing, I was planning to take the engine out alone and put it straight onto the engine stand, Would I be able to still put the engine on the engine stand with tranny attached?, Ive also seen people place the engine onto say an old tire, so not to sit it on the sump.
Thank you again
Ummm, most engine stands I know of use the the bell housing bolt holes as attachment points so, no, I don't believe you can mount the engine and transmission together on the stand. I use tires all the time for transporting engines. I have one sitting in a tire in the garage right now and it collapsed the side and tilted over so it's probably not a great idea for long term storage...

I built some rolling stands for my other engines out of Harbor Freight mover's dollies. I put transmissions on them too. What can I say - I'm either really lazy or really smart!

Troy


Sarcasm detector, that's a real good invention.

Evolution69

Matching numbers 1968 Dodge Charger RT

"Because bad guys always drove Chargers" - Richard Hammond


fy469rtse

How did you go, if you haven't pulled engine yet, have a look at build treads on here, make some legs up , they bolt where bumper mounts , undo k frame and lift body off of drive line , just like they were assembled , I put my back together this way as well, have a look at my build thread or others on here

rsw0331usmc

I once pulled an engine/trans combo simultaneously using a come-along dangling from a tree. You'll see it's not that difficult. Note: That was when I was younger, I now have a garage equipped with a lift, much easier!

Lord Warlock

did mine twice same way both times.  all accessories off front of motor, radiator out, exhaust pipes off at manifold, remove trans cross member support brace-unbolt-jack trans up till hits tunnel twist it forward till clears frame mount and pull out one side.  then lower trans till tailshaft lays near ground. bolt chain across motor mounted to 2nd intake manifold bolt holes, (removed carb and intake first) put a 4x4 across 4 rafters in garage roof, hooked a cable comealong over 4x4 and to chain on motor cranked it up till front of motor clears radiator support,  released brakes, lifted trans tailshaft till it cleared fenders, walked it around nose, used legs and back to roll car backwards while holding trans clear, once car is out of way lowered to floor on blocks of wood, rested trans on a creeper, unbolted trans and separated motor and trans.  lifted motor again and mount to engine stand.  engine and trans prob wouldn't work on engine stand as it wouldn't be balanced, good way to tip stand over and crush toes and dreams.

did this by myself with little help from others but also was young, broke, and naïve and had a good backbone at 22 yrs old.  too old and tired to do again at 53 now.
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

Evolution69

Done,
Thank you guys, each and everyone of you with your tips and helpful advise couldn't of done it with out you

fy469rtse that sounds really interesting I shall look into it for the future, Thanks

Once again big thank you everyone, one step closer. :cheers:


Matching numbers 1968 Dodge Charger RT

"Because bad guys always drove Chargers" - Richard Hammond