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Need to raise the engine for header install...

Started by Canadian1968, March 09, 2014, 07:43:47 PM

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Canadian1968

So I am getting to install a set of headers on my 68 rt. I have the passenger side manifold off and all nuts for the drivers side except for the bolt that runs threw the rear of the manifold. This hits my steering before it comes all the way out . I need the ending up just a inch to remove this but will also need a few more inches for the headers.

I pulled the  bottom bolt out of mount on the drivers side and tried to jack the motor , but the entire front end was moving. I think I need to remove the other bolt on the other mount as well?

Do I need to remove the tranny mount as well.??

ws23rt

It would be helpful to remove the tranny mount bolt as well as the drivers side motor mount.

The front end will move up as you unload weight from the torsion bars.

Kern Dog

Our Mopars are always a pisser for header installations. YES, you need to remove the bolts to both motor mounts. Leave the trans mount untouched.
Sometimes you'll need to remove the fan and/or shroud to get the engine high enough for the job. Otherwise, the fan hits the shroud and will crack it to pieces!

Kern Dog

The reason I advise against removing the trans bolt is because you need the engine to rock side to side, not move back and forth.

ws23rt

Quote from: Red 70 R/T 493 on March 09, 2014, 07:55:58 PM
The reason I advise against removing the trans bolt is because you need the engine to rock side to side, not move back and forth.

Good point :2thumbs:

Canadian1968

Ok, so do I have to touch the torsion bars to raise it? Or will it come up once I remove the other mount bolt??
Wher is the best place to jack it? I have a 2x6 under oil pan that I was goin to use

71green go


cudaken


My self, I have found the hard way is the easy way in the long run. I pull the engine and transmission as a whole, then drop in the headers. It is not as hard as you may think in the long run.

My  :Twocents: Worth.

Cuda Ken
I am back

Kern Dog

For header installations, I put the front end on some jackstands about 16" high. I set the stands under the front frame rails just in front of the torsion bar crossmember. I then use either an engine hoist to lift the engine or a floor jack under the oil pan with a small block of wood (Often 2x6 8" long). The center link has to come off no matter the engine. The starter too. Usually this is explained in the instructions if you bought the headers new.

Canadian1968

I am in London Ontario .

Ya the  instructions  just says to remove center bolt from driver side mount only . And to remove the starter.  Doesn't say anything about torsion bars or other mount .

green69rt

Quote from: Canadian1968 on March 10, 2014, 05:15:06 AM
I am in London Ontario .

Ya the  instructions  just says to remove center bolt from driver side mount only . And to remove the starter.  Doesn't say anything about torsion bars or other mount .

Remove the starter??  On my old one I always had to have the starter installed before bolting up the driver side header, no way to get the starter past the header. 

Trying to remember details....I think I actually put the header and starter into position at the same time :scratchchin:

Kern Dog

Quote from: green69rt on March 10, 2014, 11:17:40 AM


Trying to remember details....I think I actually put the header and starter into position at the same time :scratchchin:


That is what I have had to do every time i do an R&R of my TTI pipes. I would've thought that other brands have similar procedures.
I've only had the remove the T bar on the driver side on A body small block header jobs. the B bodies seem to have a bit more room even with a Big Block.

Canadian1968

Well I got the engine raised up so I could slide the bolt out of the exhaust manifold. Got all the studs out and wires disconnected from the starter. Grabbed the drivers side header to see what I was up against . It look like I have to lift the engine a bit more. I will attack it again tomorrow when I have another set of hands to guide me from the top

XH29N0G

I had a bear of a time fitting some Hooker competition headers in a 1970.  I was able to jack the engine up from the bottom (oil pan) and removed the clutch linkage, but at one point I also had the top of the transmission/bell housing hit the bottom of the car.  I think it would have been much simpler to do this on a lift and possibly by removing some of the steering linkages, or even pulling the engine out more.  When I was a kid, I had some other headers and they just slid in, so I know it is header dependent.   

May you have an easier install.  My  :Twocents: would be to find someone who has installed a similar set in a similar car and see if they can walk you through the step by step.  I see some of that here, but someone must have done this.  What type of headers are you installing? 
Who in their right mind would say

"The science should not stand in the way of this."? 

Science is just observation and hypothesis.  Policy stands in the way.........

Or maybe it protects us. 

I suppose it depends on the specific case.....

fy469rtse

 Mitch , I had the same issue, had to sneak starter in with header  otherwise would never had got them in

Canadian1968

They are a set of Hedman headers. Not elite line . 78036 - with the ceramic coating .

green69rt

More from my memory (40 years ago.)  I think I also had Hedman headers.  Most of what I remember is how hard it was to change the starter.  This is what I remember...

Unbolt the header at the head and collector.
Unbolt the motor mount on the driver side only, and unbolt the trany from the support.  Unbolt the starter and let it rest in the pocket between the header and the block.
jack the engine over and keep moving things around, if the header won't go in or come out then jack the engine a little more.
Repeat till you can wiggle the header in or out, if putting it in, put the starter and header in together.
Don't forget to put the header gasket on before you start putting the header in, likewise the starter shield.

Repeat for the pass side (was easier on my car because of no starter.) but attach the drive side motor mount and unbolt pass side.

I don't know if this helps, hope so.

Edit, remembered that you may have to undo the transmission linkage torque shaft (if column shift) to keep from screwing it up.

rsw0331usmc

Good advice from everyone. I used a transmission jack under the engine and unbolted the motor mounts. No matter how it's done, header installation on a big block is a cruel joke by the designers.

green69rt

Good luck.  Not for the faint of heart but not beyond those who give it a bit of thought...

Canadian1968

Well just got finished fighting with the drivers side for 3 hours.  I needed to make a dent in 2nd pipe to clear my power steering.  The rest of the header fits very well. Except I do not see how I can use my stock starter.   I simply cannot get the starter in wiht the header in, or if I try to put them up together, I just can't move the header around the starter enough to get it into place. Looks like I am looking for a mini starter....