Best Automatic Transmission Cooling Options?

[69chargerboy]

I need a little guidence. I would like the groups opinions of the three trans cooling options I'm deciding between. The first option is keeping the stock trans pan and running a seperate trans cooler or a deep trans oil pan? Or both together? I have a mildly built 440, auto trans with a shift kit, 3000-3200 stall (I think). Mostly do city and highway driving. Thanks 

[green69rt]

On my old 69 with a 440/727 and shift kit I ran a deep sump pan on the recommendation of the guy rebuilding my trany.  I don't know if it made a diff in temp (no gauge) but it sure made changing trans fluid easier!!   He also recommended a trany cooler in front of the radiator but said to just put it in series with the existing one in the radiator.   Later if I do work on the radiator then that would be the time to get rid of the radiator cooler altogether.

[Brass]

I have 2800-3000 stall, a shift kit, normal pan, and this B&M cooler (20,500 BTU): http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bmm-70266/overview/

I have mine in sequence with the radiator but some on here will say to plumb it separately.  That way transmission heat will not get circulated into your radiator and vice versa.

[Ghoste]

Definitely run it in series with the rad.  I use a deep sump and an auxilliary one in series with the rad.  I didn't get the B&M stacked one, just a regular looking cheap one and it seems to work great.

[myk]

'OP don't you already have your 'trans hooked up to the radiator?  I would recommend the deeper pan, running through the radiator AND an external cooler; anything you can do to keep your mechanicals cool can only help keep you out of harm's way...

[Cooter]

Be careful to hook up rad. First, out of rad. Into cooler, and back to trans.

[firefighter3931]

Fwiw, I've allways bypassed the rad when running a stand alone cooler.....zero issues. I prefer this method because the cooling system doesn't become overtaxed trying to cool both the trans and motor. This will keep the (engine) temps cooler. 

The B&M stacked plate cooler with a deep aluminum pan is the preferred setup, inmo 


Ron

[justcruisin]

I run a stand alone cooler on its own with the standard pan, I have a gauge with the sender in the back of the pan, temp has never been above 185, even on a slow crawl up hill, (normally sits around 170). That's with 2800 stall and 3.23 gears. I have an electric fan on the cooler operated via a 190 thermo switch in the pan. I don't recall it ever coming on.

[bakerhillpins]

My car came with a weird pan that's got a bunch of tubes through it from stem to stern.  Not really sure how much air/cooling I get out of it though.

[69chargerboy]

Thanks for all the help!!!!!!!   

[charger496]

   This is an interesting thread. I've wondered if my engine would run cooler without using the radiator trans cooler. I have a 500ci motor and cooling is an issue in traffic and long interstate drives. It gets into the 200s on long trips. Would bypassing the rad help? Also, never had trans temp issues, but if I did bypass, I'd put a gauge on it to make sure...

[2Luke2]

   This is an interesting thread. I've wondered if my engine would run cooler without using the radiator trans cooler. I have a 500ci motor and cooling is an issue in traffic and long interstate drives. It gets into the 200s on long trips. Would bypassing the rad help? Also, never had trans temp issues, but if I did bypass, I'd put a gauge on it to make sure...

I though 200s was bad?

[A383Wing]

My car came with a weird pan that's got a bunch of tubes through it from stem to stern.  Not really sure how much air/cooling I get out of it though.

old pan from JC Whitney company

I run a stand alone cooler on its own with the standard pan,

same here..bypassed the radiator cooler all together

[charger496]

   Temps up to around 225 aren't great, but aren't hurting anything, generally. I run synthetic as a little insurance. I would prefer that the coolant never get over 180 under normal driving. I feel like a good cooling system should be able to do this in 100 degree weather. 

[firefighter3931]

   This is an interesting thread. I've wondered if my engine would run cooler without using the radiator trans cooler. I have a 500ci motor and cooling is an issue in traffic and long interstate drives. It gets into the 200s on long trips. Would bypassing the rad help? Also, never had trans temp issues, but if I did bypass, I'd put a gauge on it to make sure...

Bypassing the rad trans cooler will definitely help engine temps....I've seen it before 

Out on the highway you're getting lots of airflow across the front of the rad so the cooling capacity is the issue here. What rad and fan are you using ? Thermostat rating ? Fan shroud ?

A 500in engine makes a lot more power than a 440....and power produces heat. 



Ron

[charger496]

   I've got a stock radiator that I had re-cored with 4 rows, factory shroud, 7 blade flex fan with a milodon (I think) pump, aluminum housing (not 440 source), and a big ac system to warm things up before the air even gets to the radiator. and the motor puts out 530hp/630ftlbs at the crank. I think I might mount a radiator from a Mac truck on the roof.

[flyinlow]

Depends on how much cold weather driving you do.  I have a B&M plate cooler with 3/8 " metal lines. It does not go thru the radiator,so it is free to keep the engine cool. I have a 518 trans which uses a deep pan (no fins) and the temp sensor is in the pan.  The fluid has never hit 200* , normally around 150-160 after about 30 miles in the summer. In the winter the fluid does not get warm enough  ,so my wife sewed a vinyl jacket like you see on semi truck radiators to block the airflow to the cooler in sub freezing temperature.


Trivia: On a long road trip ( 70 MPH)  having the converter unlocked with about 200-300 rpm of slip increases the trans. temp about 15* .

[fy469rtse]

Deep pan more fluid, ran a temp gauge on my 68 , stroker mild high stall , you wouldn't believe how quickly on a very hot day how quickly temps rise in slow moving stop start traffic, the trick is to have sender on the out line before it gets to coolers,
I've bypassed the cooler section to radiator, twin coolers with their own fans 6" x 5" I think was the size , come on automatically, mounted these to the sides in the area that have those tin plates to extend radiator support under headlights to wheel well, don't like the idea of mounting too many layers of cooling radiators competing for the same air which progressively
Is getting warmer and warmer with each rad it flows through ?
This car is big block stroker over 5 hundred, 3500 stall a/ c car as well, like a good Boy Scout , just trying to be prepared.

[myk]

   I've got a stock radiator that I had re-cored with 4 rows, factory shroud, 7 blade flex fan with a milodon (I think) pump, aluminum housing (not 440 source), and a big ac system to warm things up before the air even gets to the radiator. and the motor puts out 530hp/630ftlbs at the crank. I think I might mount a radiator from a Mac truck on the roof.

No, just get rid of the 4 core radiator and go with a better flowing 2 core one...