gear ratio

[XH29N0G]

I was told the 4th gear is the over drive and 3rd ratio was 1:1. Yes I agree, stick is definitely more fun to drive and I'm sure the first few days I'll be burning gas and tires lol.
That's the future project tho, right now I'm installing a B&M ratchet shifter. It's a lot more than I thought it would be but so far so good. I'm about to spot weld the bottom plate onto the floorboard that I bolt the shifter too.
Has anyone ever done this? I have tried shifting with the engine off but it won't go further than DRIVE. Can't get it into 2nd or 1st. I'm using a 4 foot cable instead of the 5 foot cable. I read somewhere that a guy had better luck with the 4foot cable.

ANY advice? Words of wisdom?

You have several things to consider.  Look up the gear ratios on the 4 speed.  Mine was an aluminum case van/light truck transmission from the 1970's (I installed it in 1981 and took it out last year).  I am told the aluminum cases are not strong, so there could be a problem if you beat on it.  It had a very steep 1st gear (something like 3.09:1) which meant the shift from 1st came quickly with the 3.23.  The shift to 2nd was a long one to 1.67, and then 1:1 3rd and something like 0.73 in 4th.   4th was nice for long trips, and I liked the advantage in ratio that 1st provided for starts, but the ratios are not set up close for other types of racing.

(Since I installed it as a kid, I modified the van/truck shifter and floor pan to fit, the shifter sat high and the ball on the shift lever seemed like it was a chest level with about 12-16 inches of throw    Actually not that bad, but you get my point - you will have to modify something.) 

The shift pattern was a normal H pattern because they flipped some of the tabs upside down on the transmission.I would strongly recommend working something else out that made it more manageable.     I would think that if you could get a decent shifter set up that it could be nice, but make sure you know how it compares to alternatives before diving in.

[Cooter]

I was told the 4th gear is the over drive and 3rd ratio was 1:1. Yes I agree, stick is definitely more fun to drive and I'm sure the first few days I'll be burning gas and tires lol.
That's the future project tho, right now I'm installing a B&M ratchet shifter. It's a lot more than I thought it would be but so far so good. I'm about to spot weld the bottom plate onto the floorboard that I bolt the shifter too.
Has anyone ever done this? I have tried shifting with the engine off but it won't go further than DRIVE. Can't get it into 2nd or 1st. I'm using a 4 foot cable instead of the 5 foot cable. I read somewhere that a guy had better luck with the 4foot cable.

ANY advice? Words of wisdom?

I would stay away from ratchet shifters. They don't do anymore that a stock shifter would. They are just to problematic IMO.
on the od four speed manual, yes, 3rd is 1:1, but you are running the trans in 3rd gear inside of trans as 4th and 3rd shifter lever Is reversed. So, when you shift to 3rd, the trans is actually in 4th.

[motoreese]

On a 4 speed the 4th gear is 1 :1 equivalent to the 3 speed but 4th is the OD right?

[1974dodgecharger]

On a 4 speed the 4th gear is 1 :1 equivalent to the 3 speed but 4th is the OD right?

Two types of manual 4 speeds one has OD and one does not.  Have to look at the tail of the tranny to tell.

[motoreese]

How will I know it's OD? The guy said it was and he switched to automatic

[Troy]

Excellent (and accurate) sources of information:
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/4-speeds/ODA833fourspeed1.htm
http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/4sptech.shtml

Troy

[Cooter]

How will I know it's OD? The guy said it was and he switched to automatic

Well, the best way is to look for aluminum case, with cast iron tail housing. The front bearing will be huge as well.
there have been people that have successfully run these bbc.co Rhine big blocks, but the drawback is they are weaker and no known bellhousings were made for the OD four speed for use with big block.
it can be done, but you will either need to machine the bellowing to accept the larger front bearing collar, or switch around bearing retainers which Imo, it's easier to just machine the hole in bell.

Of course, if you get the four speed, post some picks and we can tell you what you most likely have.

[motoreese]

Does anyone know if the clutch pedal assembly for the '70+ A bodies. Dart, Duster etc. Fit a 69 charger?
I got a guy selling it for $50!

[Cooter]

Does anyone know if the clutch pedal assembly for the '70+ A bodies. Dart, Duster etc. Fit a 69 charger?
I got a guy selling it for $50!

No. You need  B body only from 1966-1970. Coronet, belvy, Charger, RR, GTX, Satellite.

[motoreese]

Thanks Cooter!!! You are Da MAN!!!

[Cooter]

Hit me in chat room at top of home page.