News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

electrical gremlins

Started by poppa, May 18, 2013, 06:59:14 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

poppa

Here's an oldie but a goodie. Sometimes my directional doesn't self cancel , if I don't catch it , it "blows" and I have no brake light either. When I catch it after it "blows" , all I do is turn it off and a few seconds later it and the brake light are working. Yeah ... go figure. It only happens on the passenger side. Could this be a flasher? But aren't they just for the directional ?? 69 Charger. Thanks
God must love stupid people....he made a sh**load of 'em....

Matco tools...guaranteed for a lifetime. Just not a human lifetime.

69wannabe

Sounds like it may be the turn signal switch in behind the steering wheel has a problem. My friend had to put one in his charger but I can't remember exactly what it was doing for him to replace it. I think it was doing something similar to what yours is doing. I do remember he only had brake lights on one side I think or something like that. Hope this helps!!

bulleteater

I have some issues I'm not sure if it's electrical but last night got my charger back from the transmission shop they said the battery was dead and thought the alternator was bad but it's showing charge.. Here's the thing I got it on the road in first gear and it was spitting and sputtering but then it grabbed and launched me forward but when I came to a stop the car died. I went to try and start it the battery was dead it had absolutely no juice it was like I didn't have a battery at all.. Had someone jump it and within 10 min hooked to another car it fired right up.. I'm thinking that's a point issue but why would the battery be totally dead? I've replaced the ceramic and the voltage reg and a brand new battery new distributor new points new timing gears..
Brant

poppa

Make sure all altenator and batt connections are clean and tight. Take a known good volt meter/multi-meter and make sure it is charging. Get batt tested too.
God must love stupid people....he made a sh**load of 'em....

Matco tools...guaranteed for a lifetime. Just not a human lifetime.

bulleteater

I really appreciate the fast reply! Thank you! Well after a day of sitting I checked the battery with my volt meter and the battery reads 11.39 I tried messing with the alternator wire and it's pretty tight.. It's a brand new battery well 3 months old, would checker have sold a bad battery?
Brant

bulleteater

Well I just thought I would let you know.. I was examining the wires and looked at the wires in the block on the firewall and I think it was a green wire that just popped out and fell to pieces.. Would that one wire take the charge out of the battery?
Brant

poppa

Check all the wires in that block ,it is a trouble spot. Yes , I have seen "new" batteries that were no good. Put it on a charger and get a full charge. When done wait a couple hours and load test it.
God must love stupid people....he made a sh**load of 'em....

Matco tools...guaranteed for a lifetime. Just not a human lifetime.

bulleteater

I will do that thank you very much! Would you recommend getting the original fuseable link or the cheap ones from checker that takes the bus fuse? I guess the stock fuse would have the correct connector for the block I just didn't want to spend $40 on a $5 piece of wire.. I hope the battery is junk I've been dying to be able to drive my car again!
Brant

Pete in NH

Hi Bulleteater,

Kind of a hijacked thread here. You should be seeing 13.8 to 14.4 volts across your battery with the car running. Yes, new batteries have been known to be bad or fail shortly after you put them in. I would put the battery on a small battery charger and see if it comes back up. You should see around 12.6 volts across the battery terminals if charged fully with the battery charger disconnected.

You didn't mention what year car this is but I'm taking it as a second generation car if you are saying the fusible link is at the bulk head connector. The fusible link originally was a blue 16 gauge link. If it is open the battery will not charge and it might crank but not start. I don't remember if the starter relay will get power from the ignition switch. The bulk head connectors pins are a known trouble spot. You can replace the fusible link with a new piece of 16 gauge fusible link wire or a Buss Maxi-Fuse plug in fuse in a new fuse holder. A 50 or 60 amp fuse would work fine on a stock electrical system. You should also check around and see what might have caused the original link to fail.

bulleteater

Hey thank you Pete! I have a 69 charger the fusible link was connected with a butt connector, while I was examining the wires that one just came apart. I also was messing around on the passenger side and theres a set of wires that I must've grounded out to the headers because my horn about scared the hell out of me  I swear my car is possessed haha I was thinking about the buss fuse wire but I just didn't know about the little connectors in the block or bulk head.. But now that you guys say that's the trouble spot I'm thinking maybe that's why my wiper motor isn't working.. I will go home and fully charge that battery and check it periodically.. I will let you guys know.. Thank you very much!
Brant

Pete in NH

Okay, Those fusible link connections have enough troubles with out the use of butt connectors. Someone tried a quick fix so they didn't have to mess with the bulk head connector pin. That is a high current circuit and not a good place to use a marginal butt connector. To make up a new fusible link of the original type your local NAPA store might have the parts. You need a section of #16 blue fusible link wire, a 5/16" ring terminal and a Packard type 56 male pin for the bulk head connection. You can buy the fusible link assembly already made up from restoration parts sources but, they are a bit pricey.

Sounds like you may have the original engine bay wiring harness in your car and if so after 40 plus years it may be in bad shape. You might want to consider a new reproduction wiring harness. The engine bay harness really takes a beating over the years with engine heat and oil etc. Cleaning up all the pins on the bulk head connector, using a good contact cleaner like De-Oxit, and then using a good dielectric grease to keep things clean might make those gremlins go away.

bulleteater

Sounds like I have work to do this weekend.. And some shopping.. Yeah as far as I know everything is original except the cam, rockers, and timing gear. Guess I'll have to get real familiar with electrical.. Hey poppa I'm sorry for hijacking your thread I've been super frustrated and there arent many mopar guys in my town.. Sorry and thank you both.
Brant
Brant