Tremec Transmission swap

[Rolling_Thunder]

Got the Tremec Trans in the Charger...    not a "bolt in" kit but enough for it to work...   did some work to the floor to get the tailshaft as high as possible...    planning on lowering the car in the future...

[471_Magnum]

If I had it to do over, I would have spent some more time doing some "work" to the floor on mine to get the tail a bit higher. At some point in the future I will probably pull the gear box and do it. Right now, the angle between the tail and the drive shaft isn't really healthy for the u-joint.

I've got maybe an inch clearance to the t-bar x-member, but next to nothing at several points on the floor pan. Nothing that a few swings of a BFH couldn't fix.

What OD and rear gears you running? I've got the .64 and 3.55s. With 28" tires, I'm strongly considering installing 4.10s. Cruise rpm at 70 would still only be 2200 rpm. Right now I lope along at 1900, which is a bit low for my cam and single plane intake.

[AKcharger]

So is it worth $5K? I'd really like to do the swap over from auto to the 5 speed. Sure would like some "real life" feedback

[471_Magnum]

So is it worth $5K? I'd really like to do the swap over from auto to the 5 speed. Sure would like some "real life" feedback

I love mine, but it's a lot of money. For me it was a question of "do I do the conversion, or do I start over sell my car and buy a four speed car?"

If you ever make it to my neck of the woods, you're welcome to take a test drive.

[694spdRT]

I would love to do this conversion but, I cannot justify the expense right now. I picked up a 4 speed 833OD cheap and plan on putting that in the Challenger for now.  Another good thing is nearly all of the original 4 speed parts needed to convert an automatic car over are now available in the aftermarket. This makes it much easier than tracking down used stuff.  Either way it is going to cost a nice sum of money to do any conversion but, I like to pull the gears.

[Rolling_Thunder]

383/440 TKO500 KIT
BIGBLOCK MOPAR TKO500 KIT: TKO500 5 SPEED TRANSMISSION WITH 3.27, 1.98, 1.34, 1.00, .68 GEARSET. LAKEWOOD STEEL BELLHOUSING, ALIGNMENT KIT, McLEOD SFI STEEL FLYWHEEL, PRESSURE PLATE AND 800 SERIES DISC, HYDRAULIC THROWOUT BEARING KIT WITH MASTER CYLINDER, RESIVOIR AND LINES, SLIPYOKE, SPEEDOMETER CABLE, PILOT BUSHING, BOLTS AND TRANSMISSION MOUNT.
PHOTO

Our Price:   $3,449.00 (Excluding: WA State Sales Tax at 8.8%)



The only other thing i needed to buy were some misc nuts and bolts ===   and do some creative cutting....      beware...     the stock shifter location lands right at the crossmember...     u cut it and reinforced it but still...           rectify by using the midshifter location....      but to get the tranny up it would need to be modified anyway ----    other parts needed: clutch/brake assembly, shortened driveshaft, modification to stock crossmember...   actually wasnt that difficult at all...        

471 - i am using the .68...      gives a 3.27 first gear for more out of the hole (i have less power than you do)     with a 3.55 suregrip....        im thinking of 4.10's myself

[471_Magnum]

Ah… you went with the Dark Horse kit. That explains the Lakewood housing.

A little less expensive set-up than Keisler, but like you say, not quite a bolt-in.

4.10s with that 3.27 first gear will make for a stump pulling final drive ratio. Traction will be an issue. Get a rev limiter.

[Rolling_Thunder]

yeah --- i had a bigger cam in it and it was just undriveable....  I like the Darkhorse kit better because you get a scattershield...   and more of the parts you need like the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate...   in my mind it was a better kit for an auto to manual swap...    not bolt in but like i said - with what i wanted either kit would need modification.

[Ex President]

When you say the "tail shaft hangs too low".... How low are we talking??

Any pics??

[471_Magnum]

If you just bolt the Keisler set-up in with no shims, the tail will be about 1.5" lower than a 727. I shimmed mine up about a quarter inch, but ran out of room on the floor pan. Like I said, a couple of well placed whacks with a BFH would fix that, but I really haven't been motivated to pull the gear box to do it.

This created a very minor header clearance problem as well as the aforementioned driveshaft angle. Right now the and on my front U-joint probably less than 1 degree. In order to keep the needle bearings moving and lubricating properly, that angle needs to be between 1 and 2 degrees, no more than 3.

[Rolling_Thunder]

yes - a whack or two from a BFH will solve the problem...   I cut the floor just for easier access....   will fab up a floor later...      i also had problems with the bellhousing fitting in the tunnel

[suburbanfireman]

What do you guys think about using 4.56 rear end?  Does anyone know what the cruising (65-70 mph) rpm's will be?  Thanks, and happy holidays!

[Rolling_Thunder]

Well for me i think the 3.55's are great...  4.56's will make first gear useless on my trans...   

[Rocky]

Our Price:   $3,449.00 (Excluding: WA State Sales Tax at 8.8%)    other parts needed: clutch/brake assembly, shortened driveshaft, modification to stock crossmember...     actually wasn't that difficult at all...          

For all the extra parts, fabrication, and work I'd imagine that the price is about equal to the Kiesler set up.   I bought the full auto conversion kit from Kiesler, and even though there were a few snags along the way,  I'm still happy with their kit.

[471_Magnum]

For all the extra parts, fabrication, and work I'd imagine that the price is about equal to the Kiesler set up. I bought the full auto conversion kit from Kiesler, and even though there were a few snags along the way, I'm still happy with their kit.

One could definitely make that arguement, especially if you aren't handy with a welder. If you were swapping out a 4-spd, I think you'd definitely be bucks ahead going with Keisler.

Suburbanfireman,

There are a few variables you have to consider on cruising RPM, namely tire size and which Tremec model you run.

The TKO500 has a very short first gear (3.27:1) and a 0.68:1 OD. The TKO 600 has a taller first gear (2.87:1) and the option of either a 0.64:1 or 0.82:1 OD. The TKO600 has better gear spacing due to the taller 1st gear (less rpm drop on the 1-2 upshift). With 4.56 gears, you almost have to go with the TKO600/0.64 OD combo even if you don't need the extra torque capacity. As R-T stated, first gear would be pretty much useless otherwise. You'll be tached out before the 60 ft mark.

Keisler has a speed analyser on their website, but assuming a 28" tire, with the 0.64 OD, you'd cruise at 2500 rpm at 70 mph.

[doctorpimp]

The TKO500 has a very short first gear (3.27:1) and a 0.68:1 OD. The TKO 600 has a taller first gear (2.87:1) and the option of either a 0.64:1 or 0.82:1 OD. The TKO600 has better gear spacing due to the taller 1st gear (less rpm drop on the 1-2 upshift). With 4.56 gears, you almost have to go with the TKO600/0.64 OD combo even if you don't need the extra torque capacity. As R-T stated, first gear would be pretty much useless otherwise. You'll be tached out before the 60 ft mark.

Keisler has a speed analyser on their website, but assuming a 28" tire, with the 0.64 OD, you'd cruise at 2500 rpm at 70 mph.

I ordered a TKO-600 perfect fit from Keisler, and it's on the way to me in April.  One of many parts being added to my project
Now, I'm also having a Dana 60 built and I was going with 4.10 gears.  Will this be too much gear for street tires (street slicks maybe) and MP leaf springs (not S/S)?  Should I go for 3.73 or 3.55's instead?  Or, stay with 4.10's and add CalTracs?

[Rolling_Thunder]

you can live with that because of the taller first gear...   stock 4-speeds are 2.66 so the 2.87? isnt that far off....     

[doctorpimp]

Thanks

[PocketThunder]

doctor pimp did you get the tranny installed yet?  how did it go?

[doctorpimp]

Not yet.  It's still in my Garage... waiting for my engine. 
It should be in by July 
I'll keep you posted.

[doctorpimp]

It went well

Engine and TKO went assembled together into car with engine hoist.
The only problems I had were:

- Had to grind side of Bellhousing 1/4" for header fitment.
- Had to grind a notch in shfter tower to clear late B T-Bar crossmember - no problems and according to Richard at Keisler will not void warranty !!!

Now if only I lived outside of the snow belt... I wouldn't have to wait until spring to drive it

Part II to follow 

[chargedup68]

Seeing that this topic died about 7 years ago I thought I would revive it since I am running into trouble installing my TKO 600 in my 68 Charger.  It is shoe horned in, but it is sitting too low.  I have an alterkation front end and setting up the street lynx ad dana 60 in the rear.  Since Kiesler went under my options are limited.  Is my best option to cut and fabricate?