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Need Engine Stand/Cradle Advice (and other advice!)

Started by Chris 69, February 16, 2014, 12:17:20 PM

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Chris 69

Hello, I'm converting my '68 Charger to a 4-speed. Currently it's a 383 4bbl, with 727 auto.

AKcharger's 4-speed conversion thread has been very helpful during this process.

Unfortunately, based on the runout check I have to install offset dowels and cannot remove the existing dowels while the engine is in the car (I've tried, unsuccessfully), so I am going to pull it and drill and tap the existing dowels (as mentioned in some other threads on this site) to get them out.

Four questions:

1. Since the motor is going to be out of the car, I am planning to do the bellhousing alignment while the engine is on the stand or cradle. I have a stand (never used it), but not a cradle. It looks like both bolt to the back of the engine, which would impact mounting the bellhousing. What type of stand is recommended so I have clear access to the back of the block to mount the bellhousing?

2. This will be the third engine I've pulled in my lifetime:

- The heads and intake were removed from my old truck's 390ci so I used the head bolts as a lifting point.
- The 460ci in my dad's boat has lifting loops bolted to the side of the block.

What are the lifting points on my 383 with intake, heads, and valve covers installed?

3. Since I will be drilling out the existing dowels, I need to drill through the dowels, and to the block (hopefully not through the block). How deep are the blind holes in the block?

4. I assume these dowels are hardened steel??? What type of drill bit should I use?

Thank you, Chris

heyoldguy

#2 you can use a chain attached to the intake manifold bolts or purchase/build a lifting plate that attaches to the carburetor mounting bolts on the intake manifold.

#1 after removing the engine, with the hoist still attached, support the engine with blocks of wood while you align the bell housing. Remove the spark plugs so the engine turns over easily while checking the runout.

#3 since the dowels don't go all the way down to the block, you will feel the drill pass into the air gap between the the dowel and block. 3/16 drill bit and 1/4-20 starting tap and bottoming tap should be sufficient.

#4 not hardened, easy to drill. Drill through the center of the offset dowels from the side that goes into the block before you install them into the block. This is incase you need to tap them and push them out and rotate/reinstall them if you don't get them installed at the proper offset the first time. Oh my, how do I know that?

JB400

Your answer for #1 is to use the cradle.  It'll bolt to the front motor mounts and a couple bolts on the back.  Just mount your bell housing on before you  mount it to the cradle.

As far as lifting points, you can go through the intake bolts or the heads.

BSB67


500" NA, Eddy head, pump gas, exhaust manifold with 2 1/2 exhaust with tailpipes
4150 lbs with driver, 3.23 gear, stock converter
11.68 @ 120.2 mph

Chris 69

Awesome. Thank you for the help. I'll be getting ready this week and hopefully pulling the motor next Saturday or Sunday!