DAMIT, DAMIT, DAMIT!!! Water pump issues

[TruckDriver]

I was installing the new water pump and I discovered the top bolt hole is stripped (no I didn't over tighten it). So, Does anyone carry new or refurbished water pump housings for a 400? Every place I called around here doesn't seem to be able to get one OR, does anyone have one they could afford to give up?

Also, does anyone happen to know the correct torque for the water pump bolts?

[ipstrategies]

I have a parts 400 at my uncles that I think still has the waterpump on it. If you have no luck locating one I can get over there and pull it off. You cover shipping a few bucks for my time. I found the parts stores around here do not know anything but what the computer tells them.
It took 2 trips to 2 parts stores to locate the correct pump for mine. The belts were another treat as well as rear brare shoes. I have found a couple stores NAPA and Ohio Auto Parts that have some idea.

[chrisII]

dcg  check ims the one i hav is on the engine and ben sitting outside (still in a C body stub) for over 10 years now.

[694spdRT]

I doubt anyone sells the housing new. The water pump bolts into that. All of the spares I have are for trucks and the outlets are wrong....sorry.

Try Mega Parts. I bet Roy would have one for you. (608)452-2045

[John_Kunkel]

Why not repair the existing housing with a thread insert (Heli-coil, etc)?

[is_it_EVER_done?]

The factory manual calls for 30 ft. lbs. They are wrong, and this is the reason that the problem you have is not uncommon. 30 ft. lbs. is far to high for such a small fastener, particularly when all it needs to do is clamp the pump on the housing, and provide a tiny bit of gasket crush for sealing (Just as a matter of interest, they specify only 15 ft. lbs. for the fan to impeller bolts).

I always put a bit of silicone on the pump bolts, and (though I have never measured the torque I apply), I doubt I would go over 10 to 12 ft. lbs., and have never had a leak, or bolt back out, since the silicone soft locks them in place.

As for your more immediate problem, the quickest/easiest fix is to buy a stud (or cut off the head of a bolt of the same diameter) that is long enough to allow you to use a nut to attach the pump. Use J-B weld in the stripped hole, thread in the stud, wipe off any excess J-B weld that squeezes out, wait overnight, and it will be as good as new (or better), with the only difference being that you will use a nut on one of the attachment points instead of a bolt when you put the water pump on.

Personally, I do it this way even though I have extra housings around, since it's easier than removing everything necessary to change the housing, scrape gasket surfaces, etc. I know this might sound kind of Micky Mouse, but I assure you it is as strong as the virgin iron with the benefit of not needing to disassemble everything, which not only saves time and effort, but eliminates other potential leaks from gasket replacements, re-torquings, etc., that come with removing/installing all the other parts.

[694spdRT]

Couldn't he also tap the housing out one size larger? That may involve making the water pump hole larger as well.

[TruckDriver]

I like is_it_EVER_done's idea. I never used JB Weld though. How clean does the inside of the hole need to be being that it does have a bit of antifreeze and crap in the hole. It is going to be hard to remove all of it.

[694spdRT]

I used JB weld on an old plow trucks exhaust manifold stud the I had to drill out. Since the threads were junk by the time I was done I blew it out with air, put the new stud in the hole with JB weld and left it sit overnight. It torqued down fine and I used the truck for several years after that without problems until the tranny blew.

[TruckDriver]

but how will it set up with a bit a antifreeze in the hole?

[694spdRT]

Which hole is damaged? If the pump is out your antifreeze should be below that level anyway. Once the JB weld is set up there should not be a problem. I didn't remember the water pump bolts going into the coolant anyway...or do they?

[TruckDriver]

It is the top bolt, but there is a little crud in the hole that might be hard to get out. I am just wondering in case I can't get it all out.

[694spdRT]

I think you will be alright. Heck the water pump it might even seal up without that bolt in.  

[is_it_EVER_done?]

You bring up a point that I, and possibly others, take for granted, which is that anything you do on a car should start with clean and dry parts/pieces. Use some spray carb cleaner or brake cleaner (or both), or even water in the hole, then let everything dry before attempting any fix.

As pointed out, you can also drill and tap to the next oversize, but you will then have shavings in the water pump housing, which is why I prefer the J-B method, but whatever way you go. Clean and dry everything first! Even if you are simply installing the stock bolts in an un-damaged housing. This goes for anything you do to your car.

[NHCharger]

I just replaced the water pump on my 72/318. I did torque the bolts to 30lbs. as speced out in the FSM and had no problem.
As far as using JB Weld. Last year the battery hold down  in my son's Camaro loosened up and the battery actually rubbed a hole in the plastic tank on the side of the radiator. I patched the hole with JB weld. It held for 4 months. It seems the chemicals in the antifreeze softened up the JB weld and I ended up replacing the radiator.

[firefighter3931]

Lots of options : drill and tap, helicoil or just weld the hole and then redrill and tap to the standard size. Those housings are a dime a dozen....you should be able to find one somewhere.

Ron

[TylerCharger69]

Any time there is a replacement part being changed out,  many people make the mistake of not cleaning the threads out thorougly, especially in a cooling system, where build up occurs a lot.   Run a tap through them first.   A dirty, corroded thread will cause stripping.  The bolt itself as well.  As far as the repair,  you can easily  tap it out a size higher, unless you are worried about losing points at a car show for factory original.....yeah....they'll see that...lol    or  do the above and insert a helicoil.    They do sell   an aftermarket housing....let me research  and find who sells it.  (An aluminum version)   It  may be Jeg's....but I may be wrong...I'll find it though.    Here we go!!!     Jeg's   sells it.....P/N   312-P4286900      $159.99     fit's all 426  hemi engines   and B/RB engines.     Hope this helps