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New 440/4sp vibrating

Started by Dodgerdallas, February 05, 2014, 12:24:20 PM

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Dodgerdallas

Ive got about 215 mi on the new engine and from the beginning theres been a vibration when its running,took it to a good shop and had them tune it out but they said they couldn't tell where it was coming from,the balancer in correct for a forged crank and the flywheel is new from Brewers and supposedly balanced for the setup,you can feel and visibly see the vibration(steering wheel/shifter vibrates) when I gun it and it disappears as higher RPM.The engine is from S&J Engines out of Spokane,Wa and was tested on a SIM(?) machine when built-any help would be appreciated...
This is gonna be cheap and easy......

Cooter

Right at, or around 2000 rpms?
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

Dodgerdallas

It starts at idle and goes away around 35 mph or 4th gear-sorry don't have a tach
This is gonna be cheap and easy......

John_Kunkel


Was the rotating assembly balanced when the engine was built?
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

Dodgerdallas

I'm not sure but I would guess no on the engine,all I know is everythings new and was rotated on the machine and checked for compression,oil flow,etc.I was told I had a forged crank,in which I acquired the correct balancer and supposedly got everything correct from Brewers (flywheel,etc).The vibration disappears at cruising speed
This is gonna be cheap and easy......

cdr

LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
Charger55 by Charlie Keel, on Flickr

Dodgerdallas

Yes a little then increases a bit the goes away as rpm increase
This is gonna be cheap and easy......

cdr

sounds more like a drive line problem,,drive shaft,u joint,trans mount,trans bearing.
LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
Charger55 by Charlie Keel, on Flickr

Dodgerdallas

Probably not,it's a 4sp and does it in neutral
This is gonna be cheap and easy......

cdr

you said a little in neutral. is it worse when driving,in gear accelerating?
LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
Charger55 by Charlie Keel, on Flickr

A383Wing

I'm gonna guess mis-matched balancer, crank, & flywheel

Cooter

You say you 'aquired' the forged crank. Was it a cast crank engine you ADDED the forged to?
if you simply bolted in the crack and didn't rebalance the engine, you will need to...
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

Dodgerdallas

I got the engine from S&J engines in Spokane wa and was told by my salesman it was a forged crank,my bslalancer I was told by the salvage yard was for a forged crank and was verified by the shop that tuned the engine-they work on mopars regularly
This is gonna be cheap and easy......

Dodgerdallas

The crank wobbles slightly thus making the pulley wobble a bit more,the shop said that's not the problem-any thoughts on that?
This is gonna be cheap and easy......

A383Wing

find another shop, and that engine company you dealt with has been known for crap engine rebuilds

firefighter3931

Quote from: Dodgerdallas on February 06, 2014, 06:31:37 AM
The crank wobbles slightly thus making the pulley wobble a bit more,the shop said that's not the problem-any thoughts on that?

Hi John  :wave:

The crank should not wobble at all. My guess is that you have a bad harmonic balancer. With old factory balancers the problem becomes the bonded rubber that is between the hub and outer ring. Over time the rubber vulcanizes/hardens and the outer ring will slip or become loose....this in turn throws the balance off.

I don't like to use old factory balancers for this reason. I've seen this happen before.  :P


Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

BrianShaughnessy



Browse this info on balancers from the 440 website.  http://www.440source.com/dampers.htm

See what you got there.
Black Betty:  1969 Charger R/T - X9 440 six pack, TKO600 5 speed, 3.73 Dana 60.
Sinnamon:  1969 Charger R/T - T5 440, 727, 3.23 8 3/4 high school sweetheart.

Dodgerdallas

So Ron ur saying thar could possibly be my problem since it's not that severe ?
This is gonna be cheap and easy......

Dodgerdallas

...and yes I meant the balancer wobbling not the crank
This is gonna be cheap and easy......

firefighter3931

Quote from: Dodgerdallas on February 06, 2014, 12:48:40 PM
So Ron ur saying thar could possibly be my problem since it's not that severe ?

 
Yep...i'd say the balancer is a problem. I'd replace it  :yesnod:


Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

firefighter3931

Quote from: Dodgerdallas on February 06, 2014, 12:59:06 PM
...and yes I meant the balancer wobbling not the crank

I knew what you meant John.  ;)

It's pretty rare for the crank snout to be bent....especially when this engine is fresh from the machine shop.

For sure they would have verified straightness before assembly. :yesnod:


Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

Dodgerdallas

Thank you sir,I'll look for one
This is gonna be cheap and easy......

firefighter3931

Hey John, have a look at the link :

http://www.jegs.com/i/Professional+Products/428/80013/10002/-1

These Professional Products dampners are descent quality.  :2thumbs:  The black coloring makes it easier to read the timing marks when making adjustments.  ;)


Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

Dodgerdallas

Thanks Ron,this is the one I ordered from Summit before I got your link (sorry I don't know how to forward the page) #SUM-C4279,Im hoping its the correct one, I have the belt pulley with the "odd" bolt hole that doesn't line up unless you have the correct pulley/balancer combo-the tech dept there told me it was the right one for a forged crank (internally balanced) but couldn't tell me about the pulley bolt and I cant tell from the pics-getting her tomorrow so we'll see! Thanks for the response...
This is gonna be cheap and easy......

firefighter3931

Sure, that one will work fine John  :2thumbs:

I have one very similar to that on mine. Before installing it take a sharpie and draw a black line across the 35* mark. In the daylight those scribed numbers on the polished balancer are hard to see with the timing light. That is why i suggested the black balancer.  :yesnod:

Let us know how it turns out  :icon_smile_big:



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs