Body position during sub connector install

[HeavyFuel]

I am going with the subframe connectors from US Cartools, the ones that are cut to fit the floor, and I have also picked up the torque boxes from Auto Rust Tech.

How should I have my car positioned when installing the connectors?  US Cartools says to have the car loaded on the suspension, with the doors closed, and weld it up from under the car.  Well, my car totally apart now, and on a rotissarie.  How do I duplicate a load on the unibody, with no engine or suspension on the car.

I don't want to get 'em welded in, and then have my car react in undesirable ways once it is back together.  Maybe it won't matter much since the body isn't supporting anything but itself right now.

The car is supported right now at the bumper connecting points, both front and back.  If I position the car top side up, wouldn't that simulate things pretty well?

[tan top]

when i welded mine in the body was completely striped , supported by  four high lift jack stands under the frame rails  on level concreate , if this is any help.

[HeavyFuel]

How did it turn out?  Any issues?

[tan top]

no problems at all , got all the parts from ( auto motive rust technicians) . had to trim and shape ( twist & bend) the torque boxes a little to get the fit i wanted. the frame connectors were 2"x2" box as i did not want to cut the floor . if i were to fit that type of  torque box again i would make the access holes for the leaf spring eye bracket nuts  a bit bigger. more like the HEMI torque boxes .

[lilwendal]

I installed mine while on the rotisoire with the car flipped. Body was completely stripped. Torque boxes and rear spring gussets too.  Much easier trimming and welding. The cars back on all 4 with the drive line and suspension complete.  She sits right with no stance issues. All panels line up beautifully. Be another couple of weeks before I will be able to take her down the road. I cant see why I'd have any problems.

[runningman]

I got the same ones, I emailed them to ask the same question.  They said it would be fine with the car on a rotissarie, if you check out their website the pics of the connectors be installed are done the same way. 

[HeavyFuel]

Good deal.  Thanks, guys.

[suburbanfireman]

Hey Heavy - How did the sub frame connectors turn out?  I am attempting to install the same on my 68 this weekend.  I have mine flipped on its side too.  Did you have any problems with the floor pans denting down / up from the connectors when the are put in place?  My car had replacement floor pans put in it, and I am having trouble with the fit.  It makes me cringe, but I have been pounding on the pans with a sledge / chunk of 2x4 to make them fit the contours of the subframe connectors a little better.  Any input would be much appreciated.

[73 Charger 440]

Just for further reference, I remember the key being to lift the front end of the vehicle and support it... This at least goes with newer age cars such as F-Bodies and Cobras, etc...

[HeavyFuel]

Fireman, I am having my body guys do mine, and I have not checked up on them for a few weeks.

MAn, I don't no if I would jamb those things into place with your car fully assembled and on its side.  Your car goto to be skewed in a postion liek that.

I do remember that another member applied light pressure to his from underneith with a jack, and they laid up nice against the floor. Of course, his car was elevated, and flat and level.  It will be pretty hard to do yours on the side.

My floor is original, and I am expecting that the fit will be good.

[suburbanfireman]

Yeah, I'm not sure what I am going to do now.  By the way -  my car is gutted (interior) without the motor, tranny, gas tank, hood, bumpers, windows (except the windshield).  It really isn't that heavy because I've pushed it around the garage myself.  I think I will just prep the bottom of the car, move the e-brake cable, etc and then put it back on it's wheels before I weld in the connectors.  It would be a real shame if the car launches to the right or left every time because I welded it in a flexed position.  I will try to post pics later this week.

[lilwendal]

if your using the US Car Tool connectors there is a lot of grinding involved to make a good fit.  I spent almost a day on each side getting them fitted and welded.   A couple oops lessons.  Make sure the slots for the E brake cable is cut. Also the fuel line will route through the right side connector just aft of the torsion mount.  If you are replacing this do it in conjunction with the install. It is impossible to get this through in 1 piece after the connector is welded in.  At least with 3/8s stainless. 

[Silver R/T]

anyone tried these>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=120012132632&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3AAAQ%3AUS%3A1

[Rack]

anyone tried these>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=120012132632&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3AAAQ%3AUS%3A1

If you were to get those I'd recommend you get them directly from magnumforce (they're the same ones).

The only time I get something on Ebay is if it's something I can't get anywhere else or if I'm saving a good amount of money by buying it there instead of at a store/site. Their price (ebay's) for those connectors is the same as if you were to get it directly from magnumforce (at most you'd save $10).

I know the seller at ebay is magnumforce, but by getting it directly from their site you'd better "protected" IMO.

Although their feedback rating is good so it probably wouldn't hurt in this case.



I'm getting ready to dismantle my car and soda blast it, but I plan on putting in a rollbar and subframe connectors. Would it be better to install the connectors now, while the full weight of the car is still in place? I don't think it would take too long to do it so it wouldn't delay my "schedule" of dismantling it and blasting it. If it's "better" or "safer" to install them now then I'll go ahead and do so before I start dismantling.

[Mike DC]

 
I think the question has a lot to do the condition of each individual car. 
(Is it mostly solid, or are the rockers & floors rusty?  How much of the car is coming apart during the resto?  etc.)

I also think it's less important to get it exactly like it is when it's finished, but very important just to get the weight evenly distributed.  I'd worry most about whether the car's resting parallel to the ground & evenly on all four corners.  You don't want one end or one corner higher up in the air than the rest of it.

It also helps to get the car's weight supported in the areas of the suspension anchoring points, as opposed to holding it at the front & rear bumpers.  I'd probably wanna stick the jackstands under the area of the LCA's/K-frame in front, and near the axle bumpstops under the rear framerails.

 

[Rack]

Now that you mention it, the right rear seems to be a bit lower then the left rear. I thought it was just a weak shock or something.

I guess I'll just wait till I have the car on the rotisierre to install the frame connectors.

[73 Charger 440]

You guys might want to look into having the front end lifted only... Ive heard about it alot before (different cars however) and know thats what high end shops do too. Im not saying lifting on all four corners is wrong or anything, but Ill search later if theres an explanation for it. Believe it has somewhat to do with the weight of the front of the car compared to the rear.

[Mike DC]

 
I'm just guessing here, but that might be due to the weight-shift that goes on when the car is launching at the dragstrip. 

If that's the case, then it would be a move more suited to drag cars but less suited to all-around road cars.

 

[Blakcharger440]

Good info!