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RE: Newby intro & Bolt on Mods Q

Started by Aussie68Charger, January 30, 2014, 05:09:22 AM

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Aussie68Charger

G'day all,

I am new to forum posts, etc so if this is in the wrong place forgive me. Let me start by saying the USA boys sure did know how to make fantastic muscle cars!! I have always loved the muscle car era especially but have an appreciation for all old cars.

I live in Australia and had always dreamed of a US beast in my driveway someday. Well after countless years drooling (and hassling the other half) I finally got the go ahead. I knew what I wanted and after plenty of searching and looking at what was available (mostly junk), I finally found it (interstate - importer dealer). A bone stock, unmolested 68 Dodge Charger. The car is one owner (still verifying) with very little rust (no replacement panels/sections needed) and all appeared to be OEM original to the car. Well needless to say the cash changed hands and the deal was done!!

I have owned the car about 4.5 years and both my 6yr old son (mopar man in the making) and I love getting the beast out for a run. I have done the usual overhauls on drum brake system, bushes,ball joints, etc. The car runs well and from everything checked so far all parts are date code correct/ numbers matching. Nearly forgot, when stuffing around I pulled out the back seat and found a little present......yep, the broadcast sheet was still there tucked into the seat springs!!!

The gear in the car is;
383 2 barrel
Stock intake manifold
Stock exhaust manifold
Single stock exhaust
727 column shift auto
742 diff 2.76 gears (open)

I am now looking at some bolt on aftermarket goodies, to get a bit more performance (and sound) out of the old girl. I usually drive shorter runs around town (about 30 mins) and do some highway miles occasionally. The car has never seen a track and probably never will. I just want the car to pull better off the line and sound more like a muscle car should (IMO loud).

Was looking at below items and just wanted some thoughts from the guys that really know these cars.
Edelbrock AVS four barrel 650 carb
Edelbrock Performer intake
Hooker 1 7/8 headers (although after reading forum-perhaps TTI)
Flowmaster 2 1/2 exhaust 40 series mufflers

Also considering changing to LSD (maybe Detroit tru trac) and 3:23 gears.

Any thoughts you guys could give would be greatly appreciated, especially if experience with fitment, suitabilty, etc on 383. All parts I obviously have to import, so I want to try and get it right.

Thanks and hello again to all

fy469rtse

Fellow Aussie here, yes done those mods on previous chargers , don't let anyone tell you that 742 junk , 3.23 good all round gear ratio for street an wont rev it's head of on freeways , good top end speed also, true or trac lock , I like the factory type refer to your factory manual , every single used one I have ever opened , minimal wear , new clutches and bearings , good to go , the pinion dia slightly smaller than 489 but that has the crush sleeve, 742's don't
Flowmasters nick named flow blockers for good reason on here, keep reading and searching the threads for the discussions
650 bit small, but first cam swap ? Your changing manifold to four barrel, stepping up performance, performer nick named on here non performer,
Tti' top of the range, hookers getting pricey for what they are, have a look at dougs maybe , I like to get them uncoated, fitment issues with everyone's, fit ding them where needed, get them to clear , then get them ceramic coated here, good exhaust place here can do exhaust from headers back for less than what you will pay for exhaust to come , what state in Australia, oh you must post photo's , everyone likes pictures, start your own thread from now

tan top

hello & welcome  ,   :cheers: :cheers: :2thumbs:  , would love to see pictures as & when  :2thumbs: :popcrn:



do you know whats in the motor now / has it been rebuilt before /  compression ?
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

Ghoste

Welcome to the group.  What tan top said. :yesnod:

XH29N0G

Welcome.  While the gears will make a difference, I had 3.23 (sure grip) with a manual transmission 383 and it worked well all around.  I would look to TTI even though I am using hooker headers.  The TTI have a version that are made for the B and my guess is that they fit better up under the car as well as around angled plugs if you ever decide to change to heads with angled plugs.  I don't have much to say on the manifold and carb or mufflers.  I had a stock 4 bbl holley with stock manifold and it ran well.  While my guess is you will notice a difference with the 4 bbl, I swapped between several 4 bbl manifolds at one time or another, and I do not know if I noticed much difference.  I am running a performer RPM now and need a drop base aircleaner to make that fit.   There is a lot of information posted already on the forum and I found a lot by looking through the various pages. 
Who in their right mind would say

"The science should not stand in the way of this."? 

Science is just observation and hypothesis.  Policy stands in the way.........

Or maybe it protects us. 

I suppose it depends on the specific case.....

Aussie68Charger

Thanks for the quick replies guys,

fy469rtse, I have read mixed opinions on Flowmasters, but have read that what they lack in performance they make up for in aggressive sound?? And found some tables of tests done on different exhausts and they they weren't too bad when compared with other systems?? Any thoughts on alternatives?? Comparison sound.
Not planning on doing cam at this stage, 650 carb still too small for my application??
Have read Performer RPM is better than Performer intake, however is the range too high for my application (Performer RPM 1500-6500, Performer idle-5000)???
Thanks for your advice, trying to learn and understand as much as possible before going ahead.

tantop/Ghoste, As far as I can tell the engine is bone stock/original and never been touched/rebuilt.
Any thoughts?? thanks

Will try to post a photo shortly.

Thanks guys



Aussie68Charger

XH29NOG, Thanks for the reply mate, so do you think Performer would be ok or need to go to Performer RPM if sticking with Edelbrock?? Do you think Edelbrock carb not good choice?? or too small??

Aussie68Charger

Here she is !!!

XH29N0G

Aussie68Charger. Nice looking car.  See what others think about the full combination.  If you want something that is fun to drive, I would focus on the torque rather than the HP and RPM.  They are linked, but there are trade offs.  This might mean the performer rather than performer RPM.  If I were you, I would wait until someone else weighs in on this issue.  There has been a lot of discussion lately on other threads about different edelbrock carburetors and also the Holley's.  I have not used the edelbrocks so I am not the one to give an opinion on that.  My guess is that the rule about a smaller carburetor 600-700 cfm rather than larger yielding a crisper throttle response may be what you want.  Again, wait and see what others say.  This will depend on your transmission and how it is set up and they will have a sense of this.
Who in their right mind would say

"The science should not stand in the way of this."? 

Science is just observation and hypothesis.  Policy stands in the way.........

Or maybe it protects us. 

I suppose it depends on the specific case.....

Dino

Welcome! 

I'm running 2.96 gears with 28" tall tires and for my purposes it's perfect.  I had 3.23's on my 68 with a 383 and it was great in town but still revved too high on the freeway.  This was also when 80-90 was the norm.  Of course when getting off the line quick is the goal then get a gear that 'almost' drives you mad at highway speeds.   :icon_smile_big:

The edelbrock performer (non rpm) is basically a copy of the stock one but lighter.  I have one on my 440 because the previous owner stuck it on but it's nothing to write home about.  If you're not racing then leave the stock manifold in place, you'd never feel the difference.  A 650 is plenty for a 383 although 750 would work as well.  If you are dead set on an eddy then try to get the thunder series.  The performer series sucks and needs a tune up kit to make it run properly.  Too rich at idle and too lean at wot.  Any chance you can find a thermoquad over there?  You'd need a spread bore manifold though but it'll give you the best of both worlds.  More economic cruising and screaming at wot.

Consider the dynomax ultra flow mufflers.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

cudaken


Good looking Charger Aussie!

I cannot speak about the current line of Edelbrock intakes. I have ran a older Edelbrock DB4 intake and was real happy with it. Here is what i would do.

Holley 600 or 650, I would prefer the 650.

Edelbrock DB 4 if you can find one.

74 440 A/C water pump, worth 5 HP.

Up grade the ignition system, I have read many good things about the Fire Core system from the site.

MSD 6 AL. May not need with the fire core.

Headers, I run hookers and they are great headers. I have all so work with TTI and they do fit great!

2.5 in exhaust pipes with either a X pipe or H pipe. X pipes will make a few more HP than the H pipes.

3.23 Gears if you don't drive much on the interstate. I do, and loved my 2.76 Sure Grip.

Far as loud?  :shruggy: I have out grown that stage of life!  :lol:

Next step with out getting into a cam.

383 / 440 HP converter.

1.6 Ratio Rocker Arms.

Depending on the state of tune with your current set up, 1st stage will net you around 35 to 50 HP.

I have ran a 383 with the above (with out the 1.6 arms and I used the H Pipe set up) and it made for a healthy street car.

My  :Twocents: wroth Cuda Ken
I am back

Mopar Nut

"Dear God, my prayer for 2024 is a fat bank account and a thin body. Please don't mix these up like you did the last ten years."

Aussie68Charger

 Thanks for all the replies guys :2thumbs:
It has given me some good alternatives and considerations before getting the new parts, definitely something to think about  :scratchchin: Would love to hear from any other of the mopar gurus on opinions/alternatives. Still trying to learn as much as I can about these mopar beasts!!
Thanks again

charger Downunder

Welcome i have 323 ratio and love it.
[/quote]

RallyeMike

Before you molest an original car, perhaps taking it in stages? I'd suggest starting with the gear change to 3.23. This will make make a significant difference in the way the car car drives and feels right off the bat. You may be happy with just this, and you'll retain the value of an original car. Don't forget to change the speedometer gear in the trans.

1969 Charger 500 #232008
1972 Charger, Grand Sport #41
1973 Charger "T/A"

Drive as fast as you want to on a public road! Click here for info: http://www.sscc.us/

1974dodgecharger

I agree focus on the torque hp is for speed junkies lol but torque is more from stop and go and burn out etc....

I like holleys they can adjust and fine tune.

Get some heads is all i can think of if u dont want to pull yo engine for something bigger.



Quote from: XH29N0G on January 30, 2014, 07:59:18 AM
Aussie68Charger. Nice looking car.  See what others think about the full combination.  If you want something that is fun to drive, I would focus on the torque rather than the HP and RPM.  They are linked, but there are trade offs.  This might mean the performer rather than performer RPM.  If I were you, I would wait until someone else weighs in on this issue.  There has been a lot of discussion lately on other threads about different edelbrock carburetors and also the Holley's.  I have not used the edelbrocks so I am not the one to give an opinion on that.  My guess is that the rule about a smaller carburetor 600-700 cfm rather than larger yielding a crisper throttle response may be what you want.  Again, wait and see what others say.  This will depend on your transmission and how it is set up and they will have a sense of this.

don duick

welcome  I used to have a 383 in my 69 charger I did the following mods.

1/ changed diff ratio from 2.76 to 3.23 big improvement.

2/ tried a 750 edelbrock no good then tried 600 erdelbrock {it is actually a 625} a lot better. Then tried an original 625 carter avs better again engine loved it ran great. A holley could be a better carb but you have to know how to tune it. If motor is stock then stick to 600

3/ put on a edelbrock performer inlet a slight improvement over the factory 4 barrel inlet. I have read edelbrock performers for 440 are no good but ok for a 383. I also tried a torker single plain inlet, no good very poor throttle response down low.

4/ put hp exhaust manifolds and twin 2.5 exhaust not much improvement then had problem with drone it was unbearable. do not know what mufflers the exhaust shop installed. then switched to straight through mufflers slight improvement in power and still had drone.

5/ msd 6a box used it with the Chrysler electronic distributor that was a big improvement. don't use the Chrysler orange box they are crap.

 Don't spend too much on your 383 you might decide to junk it in the future. It is difficult to get high compression on a 383 motor. I spent about 5000 on a  rebuild on my 383 and was a disappointing waste of time and money I spent about 6000 an a mild build on my 440 which included edelbrock heads and there is no comparison in power.  I could not find high compression pistons for the 383 it is also difficult to find 75cc chamber heads also.




Aussie68Charger

Hey guys,
Need some more advice please.
After looking through forums have been thinking TTI headers will be better choice over Hooker due to fitment issues with 383 low deck. I was originally going to get 1 7/8 primaries but after looking at TTI website, thinking 1 3/4 primaries maybe better for my application. Both are into 3" collector. TTI website recommends 1 7/8 for 400-600 HP, and 1 3/4 for 300-475 HP. I don't think I will be doing further mods other than intake, carb, headers, exhaust.
Any advice please guys???

garner7555

Given the mods you are planning, I think the 1 3/4 would be best. You can get too big with headers if engine isn't built adequately enough to need it. I'm sure some of the more experienced engine guys will be chiming in soon. They will know more than me so if their opinion differs from mine than ignore me.  :2thumbs:
69 Charger 440 resto-mod

Aussie68Charger

Garner7555, Thanks for the reply, that's what I was thinking, 1 7/8 maybe oversized for application.

Anyone else had headers with similar set up to what I'm planning on 383?? What size primaries did you have??

XH29N0G

I had 1 3/4 from the 1980's and put in 1 7/8 when they rusted out about 10 years ago.  I didn't notice a difference other than both sounded different than the stock manifolds.
Who in their right mind would say

"The science should not stand in the way of this."? 

Science is just observation and hypothesis.  Policy stands in the way.........

Or maybe it protects us. 

I suppose it depends on the specific case.....

fy469rtse

Have ran both sizes and you won't notice any difference on stock engine , if you are going with the holley check out proform range vacuum secondary's, yes there are people out here making better holleys then Holley themselfs.
Go the rpm performer intake , the other one is just a stock version for weight heat savings, 1500 upwards is just above idle to start making power, torque is king off the line

fy469rtse

Oh , forgot to add ,  :2thumbs: very nice looking car , 68 my favourite

Aussie68Charger

Thanks fy469rtse, by the way you asked me earlier, I live in NSW. Also found a thread from 'TPR' - http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,107778.msg1312832.html#msg1312832
That's my red 68 next to his.

firefighter3931

Nice looking Charger  :2thumbs:

If you're looking for basic bolt ons i'd suggest you keep it simple  :2thumbs:

(1) Performer or stock 383 dual plane intake manifold
(2) Proform 650 vacuum secondary or Thunder 650 carb
(3) 13/4 primary tube headers (TTI would be my first choice)
(4) TTI 2.5in x-pipe exhaust system with Ultraflow mufflers

After that is installed you will need to spend some time dialing in the timing curve. There's lots of power to be had with some ignition tuning.  ;)


Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs