73 CHARGER 400 combo question

[XH29N0G]

Whether a 1411 is good for your application is not something I know enough to comment on.  I believe that scaregrabber recommended the AVS, which unless I am mistaken, is the thunder series. 

look at that thread I posted earlier on 'Which carb to choose"  http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,107366.0.html

There are others, but this is one where there has been a lot of recent discussion with a number of good points made. 

[Scaregrabber]

I would send back the AFB and order a Thunder series AVS. A lot of experienced tuners have trouble getting the AFB to run smoothly in all ranges. The AVS will work better for you.
I am not sure but I think Summit used to list a bolt in dual exhaust for your car. You could run a single 3 inch I suppose but please not a single 2.5 or 2.25.

Sheldon

[ajay716]

Okay I'm going to ask a few more things , at you sure the more performance orientated thunder and higher cfm will be too much for my setup?and are they harder to tune then performer like a Holley or are they basically ready to run out of the box? I really don't have the money for a dual exhaust right now and speaking of that, how good are the jegs and summit exhaust systems.... Are the name brand ones worth the extra gain or is metal metal and Id only see a maybe 5 hp increase at mos with a more expense setup? Sorry for all the q's but thanks fuys

[ajay716]

I'm considering it really now as long as it won't be too much for my single system I hear edelbroccl runs on the soft side and with the intake manifold and land n I should be good and headers but since I have a 73sgould I get electric choke? An if I can can I also set up a manual choke? Lmk cause I kinda wanna get it now if I can just tue the 800 down enough for my application

[ajay716]

bumpp cause im getting the carb tomorrow and i wanna message the seller and see if i can get the 800 for a cheaper price, its a 50 dollar difference for only 50 more cfm but actually performer 750 with electric choke isnt recomended for my rpm intake manifold, but the manual choke is, thats why i need to know if i can run an electric choke on a 73 i should cause its electronic ignition i believe if that has something to do with it.....also whats better about the avs 800? have you guys heard good things and i just need to know if it will be too much or not....soon please not trying to rush you guys

[ajay716]

and that link you provided proved i need a dual exhaust, i think i have a single 2.5 inch pipe, maybe even 2 1/4 and those have a max hp range of 185(2.25) and 232(2.5) with these mods i think ill be up to at least 250 with about 375 tq and a dual 2.5 system is good for 463 which is good cause il be adding more things for more power later, but now it wont be too big for my power im making wil it? cause im going to get the thunder avs 800. Are the cheaper dual exhaust systems worth it? please ppl i know ive asked alot but im almost done, can you answer these q's and some of the ones in the last posts, thanks


alex

[ajay716]

manual or electric choke on it though 73 with electronic ignition...and can i put a manual on an electric later..

[Scaregrabber]

The secondary air door on the AVS is very easy to tune, that is the biggest difference. You can run electric or manual choke on either one. The 73 700 had an electric assist choke as I recall so the wiring is even there for you.
I haven't used those bolt in exhaust systems myself, I just have seen them listed. I would imagine they'll work just fine though.

Sheldon

[ajay716]

well i had a 2 barrel not if that was a 700 if thats what you mean, but im glad the electric choke is also manual so thats a plus, i will send the other back, i might get this deal for the 1813 (800 electric choke) for 350-360 shipped and im going to get that stainless x-pipe system from summit mounted to my headers....im going to get it just as long as its not going to be too much fuel for my mods....please let me know i know its been asked and answered but just confirm one more time for me that the fuel flow will be fine with my big engine and the fact that i have all these supporting mods? thanks again.

[Scaregrabber]

You're good, the stock 4 bbl flowed that much.

Sheldon

[ajay716]

thanks guys, i got the universal stainless x pipe kit and with some 12 inch extensions and im getting the 800 thunder series, you were right the 750 electric choke was not recomended with the 7186 intake manifold...thanks1111

[firefighter3931]

It appears that you're on the right path with all these suggestions. 

One thing that hasn't been mentioned so far is the timing chain. The original chain & gears will be pretty tired at this point. Once the chain stretches the cam timing will be retarded. One quick and easy upgrade on an otherwise stock low compression smog motor is to install a nice double roller timing set and advance the cam 4* 

The cam advance will give the engine more bottom end power and throttle response. Comp has a line of economical double roller timing chain sets that hold up very well from my experience. 

Once you get it up and running you will need to tune the timing curve to maximize performance. Most low compression smoggers respond well to lots of total advance...some as much as 42* 

Definately get a set of 3.55 gears out back. With a heavy car you need torque multiplication to get that beast moving with authority. 



Ron

[ajay716]

i am running out of budget not going to lie...is this something i would be wanting...http://store.440source.com/Billet-3-Bolt-3-Way-Adj-Timing-Chain-Set-New/productinfo/102-1004/ if not can you point me in the right direction


the rest of the mods that i plan on puttin in for now that i will get later because no more funds now
gears
a cam
stealth heads
new perf. dizzy-is this worth it
suregrip
stroker kit


my shift button broke thats why i can type any question marks lol, but out of all the stuff im getting, will i see more of an improvement with those or the stuff i just listed here excluding the stroker kit like which set of mods will yield more performance...i know combined itl make great power
+

[firefighter3931]

Ajay,

The stock cam uses a single bolt attachment so the set you linked won't work. The Comp Magnum timing sets are excellent quality and very affordable. The "Magnum" double roller has a 4* advance keyway so you can advance the cam when installing the new timing set. Definately worth doing, inmo 

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cca-2104/overview/make/plymouth

*Ignore the picture in the Summit link....3 bolt upper gear in illustration. This is the correct PN for your application. 

As for all the parts you've listed ; sure they will all help. I would focus on tuning the current combination. Fuel and ignition are your biggest priorities at this point. Good exhaust will help. After that, the next step would be a suregrip with some deeper gears. 

I would save the engine rebuild (stroker) for last because you will need to get a new Tq converter to match the engine combination and most likely have the trans rebuilt at that point.

Keep it simple for now with basic bolt ons and tuning. 



Ron

[ajay716]

hey ron, is that timing chain set a direct replacement for my stock one
is it just basically so when i advance the timing it doesnt slip or was already
and can i gain hp from this

shift button broken so no question marks lol

[ajay716]

and for my next spending of 1000 would i see more gains from just the stealth heads with everything i have now, or would a cam, gears and suregrip be better with everything i have now, or should i just save 2000 and get everything together....

[XH29N0G]

hey ron, is that timing chain set a direct replacement for my stock one
is it just basically so when i advance the timing it doesnt slip or was already
and can i gain hp from this

shift button broken so no question marks lol

I think there are two types of timing and you may have them confused (I apologize if I have misread your question).  The timing Ron is talking about relates to the rotation of the cam relative to the crankshaft.  This is related to the timing of the valves (when they open and close).  This would be set with the timing chain as Ron suggests. 

The second type of timing is the Timing of the spark - when the spark ignites relative to the position of the piston.  This is what you change by rotating the distributor.  What I think Ron is suggesting is that you run the spark timing quite advanced because it will suit your engine well. 

[firefighter3931]

hey ron, is that timing chain set a direct replacement for my stock one
is it just basically so when i advance the timing it doesnt slip or was already
and can i gain hp from this

shift button broken so no question marks lol

Ajay,

Yes, direct replacement for stock timing chain & gears.

Yes it will increase bottom end power and throttle response. The stock chain has stretched over time and the cam timing will be retarded from the original factory installed spec. We're going one step better by moving it to a 4 degree advanced position. This really helps to compensate for the low compression the 400 engines suffered from. 



Ron

[firefighter3931]

and for my next spending of 1000 would i see more gains from just the stealth heads with everything i have now, or would a cam, gears and suregrip be better with everything i have now, or should i just save 2000 and get everything together....

I would do the suregrip and 3.55 gears next. Get a feel for the car and optimize the tuneup to get the most out of it for the time being....and in the meantime save up for your stroker.

You'll be able to drive & enjoy the car 



Ron