Lets talk radiators.

[myk]

What the Wingster said.  Hey, 383 Wing, how do you like the rad that you linked to?  I've got a two row aluminum one made by Northern.  It will still warm up on a hot day in traffic and has no drain cock. I'm thinking of replacing it.

I'm very pleased with mine...actually have the rad in all 3 of our Chargers.....these hold a lot of water. Has provisions to mount factory shroud as well. Both my 66's are manual trans cars, cooler not needed. And I'm not using the cooler in the Daytona either. This rad really cured my overheating issues.

Thanks!  I might just get one coming.  Can't go too wrong at that price...

The seller for that particular 'rad states that it has stock mounting holes for the 'rad itself and the factory shrould.  Again, I liked their little factoid about 2, 3 and 4 row 'rads and what truly makes a better performing radiator.  At this point I'm debating whether I should be running both 'trans coolers or not...

[A383Wing]

the only issue I had with it was I did not like the holes for mounting the shroud...they were real close to the tubes & fins...so I tapped the 4 holes for the shroud and installed 1/4" studs and used nuts & washers to attach shroud

here is mine with trans cooler in front...note pusher fan, was there with the other radiator...figured I would leave it there, but have never had to use it since this install

[Lord Warlock]

My AC car has a full length radiator in front of the 26 inch radiator and is hooked up tot he AC system, not the auto transmission, the transmission has fittings that go into the bottom of the stock 26 inch radiator. 

[Ghoste]

Thats a condensor for the air conditioner.

[RECHRGD]

I've got the small 22" yoke.  Will it restrict too much air for the 26" radiator to be an advantage for me?  The height looks fine, but I'd be blocking about two inches on each side.

[A383Wing]

drivers side will remain the same, uses 22" mounting bolt location as well...I cut some out of my passenger side so it looked correct....I have heard it does not make a difference....

[RECHRGD]

drivers side will remain the same, uses 22" mounting bolt location as well...I cut some out of my passenger side so it looked correct....I have heard it does not make a difference....

Thanks...  It looks like the drivers side lower hose location is real close to the tie rod, but I assume it's ok....

[Ghoste]

Might not make a difference in some cases but I bet it does in others.  It isn't just the volume the of coolant, the transfer of heat to the air has an effect as well and the more fins exposed to that airflow, the more heat transferred out of the coolant.

[A383Wing]

drivers side will remain the same, uses 22" mounting bolt location as well...I cut some out of my passenger side so it looked correct....I have heard it does not make a difference....

Thanks...  It looks like the drivers side lower hose location is real close to the tie rod, but I assume it's ok....

if it's close to a "tie-rod".....something is installed wrong.... 

[RECHRGD]

Well, I know that my current rad has the lower hose inlet tilted up to avoid it.  Maybe I'm not using the proper name for what I'm calling a tie rod.  If the area of blocked air flow presents a problem, I'm sure I could open up some area to allow for some flow without making it look like a butcher job.  I would just like to avoid it if possible...

[Ghoste]

About the only thing it should be close to is the k frame.

[RECHRGD]

Ordered it today...  I'm sure it will be fine.  They are made in China, nothing but good reviews though.....

[myk]

Ordered it today...  I'm sure it will be fine.  They are made in China, nothing but good reviews though.....

You keep us updated now, ya hear?

[Cooter]

Gonna say this one time. Rebuilding transmissions for a living, I see idiots hooking the coolers up wrong almost DAILY.

When attempting to run BOTH coolers, you MUST.....I REPEAT, MUST find the OUTLET out of radiator cooler to use as the INPUT on the add on cooler. THEN BACK TO TRANS.

It serves no purpose to run the hot fluid out to the add on cooler, cool it, then pump it right back through the radiator cooler to heat it right back up again. The purpose of dual coolers is to DOUBLE cool the fluid. First by the coolant, then again by air.

[A383Wing]

agreed...so my question would be this...for those who want to run both, which is the "outlet" line on the trans to go to the radiator cooler first?

[Cooter]

agreed...so my question would be this...for those who want to run both, which is the "outlet" line on the trans to go to the radiator cooler first?

After 50 years of morons swapping round lines, cutting lines, and generally rigging/twisting the two all up to where they look like a county road map, take both off, put in a bucket, get someone to fire up car and look see.

[myk]

Gonna say this one time. Rebuilding transmissions for a living, I see idiots hooking the coolers up wrong almost DAILY.

When attempting to run BOTH coolers, you MUST.....I REPEAT, MUST find the OUTLET out of radiator cooler to use as the INPUT on the add on cooler. THEN BACK TO TRANS.

It serves no purpose to run the hot fluid out to the add on cooler, cool it, then pump it right back through the radiator cooler to heat it right back up again. The purpose of dual coolers is to DOUBLE cool the fluid. First by the coolant, then again by air.

Ok.  So 'trans-OUT, to 'rad-IN, 'rad-OUT to cooler-IN, cooler-OUT back to 'trans....Right?

Question: does it matter what side of the 'rad or 'cooler is plumbed as "in" or "out," as long as the sequence of the lines matches the above?  It shouldn't matter, is what I'm thinking.  Ultimately however, I may just bypass the radiator; I don't think I need double the cooling, unless any of you have any say on that matter...

[Ghoste]

Yes it does matter Myk.  The fluid flows FROM the forward most port on the transmission to the rad cooler port on the right hand (passenger side) of the radiator tank.  It then goes from the rad outlet which is on the left hand (drivers side) to the inlet of the auxilliary cooler tank.  When it leaves the aux. cooler from the outlet of that tank it goes TO the trans and enters it at the rearward port on the trans.

[Ghoste]

agreed...so my question would be this...for those who want to run both, which is the "outlet" line on the trans to go to the radiator cooler first?

As per Chrysler, the front one is the outlet to the cooler and the rear one is the return port.

[myk]

Yes it does matter Myk.  The fluid flows FROM the forward most port on the transmission to the rad cooler port on the right hand (passenger side) of the radiator tank.  It then goes from the rad outlet which is on the left hand (drivers side) to the inlet of the auxilliary cooler tank.  When it leaves the aux. cooler from the outlet of that tank it goes TO the trans and enters it at the rearward port on the trans.

I think I understand the sequence, or direction of flow, but I'm trying to understand why either side of the 'rad or 'cooler would matter-it's just a pathway for the fluid to flow, right?  Should my 'aux cooler have an "in" and "out" label on the ports?

[Ghoste]

Not so.  One way is taking the fluid INTO a hotter part of the tank and bringing it OUT at a cooler point.  The inverse being true.

[myk]

Not so.  One way is taking the fluid INTO a hotter part of the tank and bringing it OUT at a cooler point.  The inverse being true.

Heard that.  I'm pretty sure the routing is correct, but I'll be checking it out on my next day off...

[Ghoste]

You have an fsm too right Myk?

[myk]

You have an fsm too right Myk?

Yes, both an old reprint from Year One I bought back in '94 and a copy on CD.  But, like Cooter says, I wouldn't be surprised if the lines/routing are all jacked up because of previous owners.  I still can't believe that the 'aux cooler wasn't standard, lol.  For 20 years I thought that thing was factory installed...

[Ghoste]

Not always necessary.
If you look in the cooling section of the manual you'll find a diagram for the fluid flow.  I can't remember the page but its a small section anyway so it should be hard to find.